Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Convertible Header Molding Removal

I need to replace/rechrome my header molding on my convertible. Does anyone have any suggestions?

A: It’s a tricky job. Once you’ve removed every screw & the pillar post weatherstripping and trim (there’s a couple of nice little hidden scres there), you have a go at rolling the header chrome forward towards the front of the car.

Start with the piece on the side that overlaps the other side at the centre above the rear view mirror (which I’d suggest you remove if you haven’t already). Stand up in the inside of your bird and get your thumbs up under the trim and sort of roll it upwards whilst pushing forward. On my bird, the passenger side overlapped the driver side at the centre so I started with that side.

There’s a lot of grey putty-like caulking under it that holds the trim on pretty firmly to the actually metal frame. It looks like the same stuff that holds the kick panels on around the vent area. I also sprayed a LOT of RP7 under the trim to break the contact between the chrome and the grey goo. Not knowing what was under there I figured the RP7 couldn’t hurt. As it turns out I think it helped break the seal between the goo & the trim…….maybe a bit.

Anyway, like I said, roll it forward and apply a fair amount of pressure. Once I got the piece just barely off at the centre I put a screwdriver shaft under it and work my way towards the outside, trying to push the whole trim sideways as well as over the top. I also used a very small screwdriver to remove the grey sealer as I went. When I could, I removed the gunk before pulling the trim away from that section. In the end it sort of slid up and over and rolled towards the outside of the car. The other side will be easier.

Take your time and be prepared to walk away and come back the next day….I did this a few times. It is pretty frustrating but the trim is also pretty tough and won’t be too easy to actually bend out of shape.

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Q: Convertible Power Top Blowing Fuses

I have recently been blowing fuses when I put up or down the power top. It is now taking 2 fuses to put up or down. It goes about 1/2 way (in either direction) then blows. If I am quick I can change the fuse before it collapses to its previous position. With the new fuse in I can then usually get the last part of the movement completed but it oftens blows again. I am not familiar with the power top as our other cars is manual. What can be causing the “burn outs” and should the top collapse back to where it came from or is the hydraulic system a problem also. What is the possibility it is short of ???hydraulic fluid ??? which is causing the pump to over draw and blow the fuse?

A: You should probably pull the back seat to access the pump and see if it’s overheating a lot when it’s running. Maybe the internal motor is going out and blowing the fuses once it starts to overheat and draw too much current.

The repro houses have the pump for about $200.00

It’s a simple system so there shouldn’t be too much to troubleshoot.

A: I have had some “power drain” when lowering my power top, but I have yet to experience what you have explained. I would suspect that the wires leading to the pump might be suspect. (I have run mine with very little fluid and too much fluid… no problem with the fuses.) Again I would suspect the wires/pump.

A: ur 1969 does the same thing, except that I can hear that the pump is low on fluid. If I help the top along, it won’t blow the fuse, but the minute I let off, it will blow. I have a leak in one of my cylinders. If I top off the fluid, it fixes it. Maybe one possibility to check.

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Q: Convertible Top Cleaner

Does anyone have a suggestion for a Convert top cleaner protector? I put a new black top on my 1967 last year, and would like to know what I can use on it.

A: I have used Mother’s Convertible Top Cleaner and Mother’s Vinyl Protector works great on plastic and tires too. here’s no shine like Mother’s shine…………so they say.

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Q: Convertible Top Kit

What parts do I need? A entire convertible top kit, or just the header sealer kit or what….I have catalogs and I cannot figure out what I need to order.I found some sort of “kit” for $188

A: The parts company will be your best source for answer the questions since each company will change their kits. I am betting you will need the kit which should include the header sealer (strip over windshield) and top pad. The convertible top should include the top and window. Sounds like you might need the rubber weatherstripping, grommets, bumpers, top hold-down bracket, tacking strips, spring and cable assemblies, and pinchweld molding clamps. See if the kits include any of these parts. Hope this helps. I looked at my conv and Year One catalog to come up with my list.

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Q: Convertible Top Switch for 1968

Was the original switch all black or was the switch chrome. I’ve seen both types.

A: Mines original and chrome as I have had the car since it was new.

A: While your working on it, did the factory do a real sloppy job cutting out the hole for it on yours?

A: Yes, mine is sort of sloppy. Is their suppose to be a bezel of some sort on the outside? Mine does not have one and the looking at the diagram I do not see one.

A: No bezel, just looks like the one above.

A: I’ve burned through 4-5 switches through the years. I used to put the top up and down a lot when it was a daily driver. There are threads here where owners have put relays in the circuit to dampen the high current that burns the switch points.

A: I’ve only seen the black switch being reproduced. Is there a source for the chrome switch? I’ve seen a few Nos on ebay . I currently have a black switch.

A: Performance Years part number RFI242

A: Mine is black (early 68) and it is original. I have also had mine since it was new and know I have never replaced switch. Purchased new January 1968. Never a problem with the top motor or switch.

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Q: Convertible Top Water Drainage

Does anyone know the exact path that the water should take from the convertible rain gutter to the road , or have any suggestions on how to improve it. My inner rocker panels are rotted and wonder if the problem is water drainage.

A: It’s common for water to get into the rocker panels. As a mater of fact, that’s the way they are designed. The water that drips down the back windows (on both sides), drains into the rockers. There is a drain at the rear of the rockers on the inside edge. Look under the car, just ahead of the rear wheel well and you’ll se a rectangular opening. If still there you may see a small square rubber flap hiding the hole. This is the drain. There is also a hole in the bottom of the rocker (I think) toward the front. If these holes get plugged, the sand a junk that normally collects in the bottom of the rocker will hold moisture and rot them out.

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Q: Convertible Trim Removal for a 1969

How do I remove the following trim items for a 1969 convertible:

1. Front Fender “Louvres” Do they just use a stud with a nut on the back? Will there be any trouble accessing the back side?

2. Convertible Well Molding – Does this just “Pop” off, and if so, is there a special tool or trick that should be used so it doesn’t get damaged?

3. Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings

4. Any tips on removing the nose from the rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be great.

A: 1. Front Fender “Louvres” – Do they just use a stud with a nut on the back? Will there be any trouble accessing the back side?

* These will be the hardest to take off. They were bolted on from behind with those speed nuts like the ones that hold you hood emblems on but larger.

* Accessing the back side will be impossible unless you loosen or take off the fender.

2. Convertible Well Molding – Does this just “Pop” off, and if so, is there a special tool or trick that should be used so it doesn’t get damaged?

* The important step to take here is to first remove the screws holding this molding on. There should be one on each side toward the front of the molding were the molding is vertical and inside the well facing the conv. top. There might be a screw in the middle as well. I don’t remember. I think you can just gently pull the molding off from the well towards the back of the car. You have to twist and push at the same time so the inner lip will clear the clip.

3. Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings

* The lower molding is screwed down and is the easiest one to remove. You have to remove the windshield valence and the screws are just underneath. The top and side windshield moldings require a special tool. This tool looks like a Y with to hooks hanging off it on the outside. These hooks go under the molding and catch the clips. Once you have located a clip you just pull toward the middle of the windshield and the clip will release the molding. The side molding that covers the pillar post is screwed on and strip caulked on. You have to take off the windshield molding, weather stripping, and the weather stripping bracket or Track (also polished stainless). Once the windshield molding is off you can see the two small screws holding the outside of this molding. They will be down by were the windshield meets the car. Next you will have to pull the weather stripping out and take out the screws that are holding the weather stripping track on. Underneath this track are a few more screws holding the pillar post chrome on. After all the screws are removed there will still be a pretty good hold on this piece because they were strip caulked onto the body. Just be very careful and take your time. All these pieces are very hard to find and very expensive when you do find them.

4. Any tips on removing the nose from the rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be great.

* The headlight bezels are held on by five carriage bolts each. These bolts are very hard to get because of their extra long carriage. You will have to drop the whole nose to access the two top corner bolts. I would recommend dousing these nuts and bolts with a lot of penetrating fluid a night or so before you plan on taking them off. They made the carriage longer because it has to go through the fiberglass bezel and then anchor on the metal of the nose. A normal carriage bolt won’t make it through the fiberglass and will crack it while tightening.

BTW…I have found a good, cheap way to remove the drip rail moldings on a hard top. I use one of those cheap bottle openers with the pointed side on one end and the bottle opener on the other. Tape the large rounded side of the opener (the side that would be on top of the bottle cap. Use masking or duct tape, something with a little cushion to it. Put the opener on the corner piece and it will pop right off. Then start at the beginning of the molding and move back. Using the opener like you would to open a bottle. Taped side pointed toward the sky. It works, give it a try.

A: Are you in for a big job. Here’s what I know:

1. Front Fender “Louvers”

* Next to impossible to remove without removing the fender. They are held on by stamped steel speed nuts. You may be able to squeeze you hand up behind the fender if you unbolt the fender from the chassis and the fender well then pry the fender out. I hope you have thin arms.

2. Convertible Well Molding

* This is the one piece that I haven’t removed, yet. I, too, would be interested in anyone’s advice. From what I hear, you have to unbolt it from the well side but I really don’t know.

3. Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings

* The lower piece is bolted in place. Most of the bolts are under the cowl but there is a clip on each end that is behind the top of the fender. I found I had to unbolt the fender to work mine back into place. The side moldings are screwed in place but (if I remember correctly) the screws are behind the window weather strip that runs up the pillar.

4. Any tips on removing the nose from the rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be great.

* Your not going to like this one but, to remove the rubber you have to totally dissemble the front bumper setup. I recommend that you remove the whole bumper setup first by unbolting it from the bumper brackets that extend up from the subframe. I think there are only six bolts/nuts total. three on each side. You can then lay the whole thing face down on a couple of saw horses to make it easier. If you have a die grinder, cut the locking nuts off, not the bolt, just the nut. Don’t even try to un-screw them because you’ll wind up breaking the plastic mounting tabs for the headlight surround. Pay special attention to all the little spring washers and plastic washers. The bolts are carriage type and have extra long shoulders. Save as many as you can. As in everything… be patient and make notes.

Funny thing is, after you remove the from bumper assembly and hood, the fenders come off rather easily. You may consider this when trying to remove the fender louvers and windshield chrome.

Well, I hope I didn’t scare you. It’s a lot of work but the details can really make or break a great paint job.

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Q: Manual to Power Conversion

What is the difference between a Manual and Power Convertible Top frame for a 1967-1969 ‘F’ Body? Can a Manual Frame be converted to a Power system simply by adding the Cylinders ?

A: Yes, you can convert your manual top to power. What you’ll need is the pump, cylinders, and hose kit as well as a switch and, of course, wiring. I’m planning on doing the same thing when I get to my 1969 convertible project.

I’ve been keeping one eye out for a good used set-up but haven’t committed any $$$ toward it yet. I did come across a 1969 dash with power top switch (it was in a 1969 Camaro drag car and the guy took it out and gave it to for FREE!). The dash isn’t in the greatest shape but the switch is OK and the dash can be used as a template for my good dash. If I remember correctly, Year One has a factory diagram in their catalog.

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Q: Manual vs Power Top Parts

Does anyone know or have lying around the frame for a convertible top?…. I could use the side rails over the rear windows. One of my cars has these pieces bent. Brings up a not-so-funny image of what happens if you try to raise/lower the top with the car moving (just a guess, I bought it that way).”

A: Remember that the Convertible top mechanism is different for power and manual tops. The power top has a different linkage that brings the front bow up and over while the manual design depends on you lifting the front bow. If you put power pistons on a manual top the side linkage will bend a lot. (I speak from experience).

A: Aside from the obvious parts related to the power top lift mechanism versus the manual mechanism, the parts book shows that the only frame parts that are different are the roof side rails as Glenn mentions. Here are the items:

Group 14.170 RAIL,SIDE ROOF

7639060 7639061 1967-69/All/-67/-Center- with manual top

7639062 7639063 1967-69/All/-67/-Center- with power top ^^ ^^ (the two part numbers seem to be for right and left)

A: About the differences between power and manual top frames. Years ago the power top frame on my 1967 bird developed a big crack. It was already having problems blowing fuses beforehand, so I just took the off the whole frame, pump and the hydraulic rams and put on a manual top frame. As an aside, I didn’t know about the hold down latches for holding down the manual top in the folded down position, so I never put them on and never noticed the difference!

Somebody posted that the part numbers are different for the side rails between manual and power top frames. So, I finally got my lazy butt out to compare the manual and power top frames in my garage. He is right. The rails themselves are similar but the brackets welded on them are different. And the attaching levers are different as well. So, at a minimum, if you want to change from a manual top frame to a power top frame you are going to need to change the side rails and the accompanying levers. So I am guessing that only the front header bow and cross bars are the same? At this point, I would say that if somebody wants to change from a manual top to a power top, you might as well change out the entire frame!

A: Sometime ago there was a discussion on the differences between the Manual Conv. Top Frame and the Power Conv. Top Frame. It was noted that only one of the Side-Links was different (Center).

Looking through the Parts Catalog, I found the following items associated with the differences. Obviously, the Lift and various Pump, Hose items will also be unique to the Power Top.

FOLDING TOP SIDE ROOF RAIL (Front)
7639042/43      67-9 F  w/man. top
7639044/45      67-9 F  w/pwr. top

FOLDING TOP SIDE ROOF RAIL (Center)
7639060/61      67-9 F  w/man. top
7639062/63      67-9 F  w/pwr. top

BOLT, ROOF RAIL CTRL. LINK TO FRT. RAIL (w/pwr. top)
7641987     67-9 F
(3/8-16 x 1 5/8)

BUSHING, ROOF RAIL CTRL. LINK TO FRT. RAIL (w/pwr. top)
7641986     67-9 F

BUSHING, LIFT TO REAR RAIL (w/pwr. top)
4613551     67-8 F
(3/8 ID x 1/2 OD, 1 1/2 dia Hd - 11/32 Shldr Lgth)

WASHER, CTRL. LINK TO REAR RAIL (w/pwr. top)
4414102     67-9 F

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Q: Moulding Removal Help

I have another question. I have a 1968 convertible that I am taking in for a paint job and want to remove the moulding that is around the top on the rear deck but can’t figure out how to get it off. How does one release the clips for this molding. I assume that it is held on with clips of some sort. I looked in the chasis manaul but it was’nt much help. Is a special tool required?

A: He asked about removing the moulding around the top on the rear, There are clips and six screws holding it in place the screws are accesible only after you remove the three rear tacking strips that are bolted to the body, I have not tried but may be possible to fold top back slightly and to use one of those stanley ratcheting screw drivers.

A: The six retaining screws can be removed by folding the top back a bit. The molding has to be removed with the retainig clips still attached. The pinch weld is at a 45 degree angle so the molding must be pulled towards the interior of the car and that angle.

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Q: Pinchweld Moulding Removal

I need to remove the chrome trim that goes around the back opening where to top folds into the well. (there some rust underneath in the corners) I looked up inside and felt some bolts accessible just above the “drip tray” but dont’ want to take them out for fear of not being able to put it all back together (next winter I’m planning to do a more thorough body job and top relacement) Any advice on how to remove the trim? Easy?

A: I took this part (pinchweld moulding) off my car in December in preparation for body work and paint. I don’t remember any bolts. I do remember that there were about 4 philips screws, plus about 8 funky trim clips. I used a trim removal tool (available at your local auto parts supplier). My trim has been sent to the plating shop so I can’t check it out to make sure about the bolts you mention.

It was easy to remove, especially since I wasn’t taking care to not scratch any paint.

The pinchweld area is quite susceptible to rust, so it’s really a good idea to look it over.

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Q: Power Top Cylinder Removal

Has anyone on the list ever changed the lift cylinders with a power top? I have the Fisher Body Manual but it is not too clear in this area. I believe that you need to take the assembly completely out, that is attached to the cylinder, but I am not too sure. The manual clearly defines the other models but the “F” body is a little bit unclear. Anyone?

A: I’ve done this on a 1969, not sure if it is the same. When I took mine out, I removed ONLY the cyinder. I first detached it from the top. Took out the seat and panel covers. Detached the hydraulic hose from the bottom. Then removed the bolts/pins which hold it in place near the top. This was the hardest part. I could get the inner one off pretty easy but the outer one was hard because there wasn’t enough room to get it out. I had to pry a bit with a large screwdriver in order to get enough space to get it out.

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Q: Power Top Problem

When I hit the button to raise the top, the motor starts and lifts it about two feet. Then the motor spins faster as if there’s no load on it and the power top stops raising. Has anyone had this problem? Do I have a fluid leak or are the hydraulic cylinders bad?

A: You are most likely low on fluid and yes, you would have a leak. If the leak happened over the course of 10 years or so, then, it might just be the seals slowly leaking. If you don’t see any puddles in the front of your quarter panels or next to the pump, I would refill and go. Otherwise, fix the leak before you refill. You will need to purge the system of air after you refill.

A: Thanks for the suggestions guys, my power top is working once agian.

I opened the pump resevoir, disconnected the cylinder arms from the top and ran them up and down a few times. This brought the air to the resevoir which I then filled up with PS fluid and closed. Once I connected the cylinder arms and greased a few of the joints on the top, everything worked perfectly. About a one hour job.

My power top works again — Oh that magic feeling!!!

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Q: Removing Chrome Strip Around Trunk Well Lining

I need to replace my trunk well lining. How do I remove the crome strip around it and then replace it? What do I need to buy to replace the rubber looking stuff under the trim to seal it to the body?

A: REMOVAL:

There shouldn’t be too much to it….but I didn’t find it easy….especially knowing it’s expensive to replace! So…

(1) : remove all of the retaining screws (philips head). Most of these are on the seat back side of the trim. I think there is also one facing more upwards right at each end of the trim. This may not be easy if you haven’t taken the trunk well liner out and if the screws are rusted. Mine were so I gave them a dose of RP7 (WD40) every day for a week, put the philips head screwdriver in and tapped the end of the scredriver with a hammer to help break the rust seal. You should also be able to spray the screws from inside the trunk.

(2) Start at one end and wiggle the trim loose slowy. It’s held on to the metal lip with retaining clips but these should slide off the lip with a bit of force. The hard part is that there is a putty/sealer under it running the full length of the trim and this is pretty good at holding the trim on. I also wiggled the whole trim by standing where the back seat is (was) and rocking it where the two pieces of trim join at the centre.

I’d suggest you take your time and if the trim doesn’t move easily spray under the full length of it with RP7 to loosen it all up, including the putty/sealer. It will come off but it took me a fair amount time!

A: REASSEMBLE:

There’s no rubber involved that I’m aware of, I can’t exactly tell what the putty was but I bagged a sample of it for when I reassemble the car. It’s Black and putty like but not really sticky (maybe because it’s so old).

It should sit within the “channel” back from the lip all the way around where the trim will sit and seemed to be all one continuous flat piece the same width as the trim. Also, it extends a 1/2 inch or so back from the metal lip, over the lip and then down under towards the trunk for about a 1/4 inch. This seems to make a good seal to stop moisture. It doesn’t look like the stuff that’s used on the bodywork, it’ was reasonable pliable even though very old. When I took the trim off, the trim came off with the mounting clips and the putty was still sitting there in the “channel” (the half inch or so dip back from the metal lip), over and under towards the trunk as above. So, I guess to reassemble in reverse is spot on.

That is…

(A) put the putty down first (about 3 millimeters thick),

(B) put the mounting clips onto the trim evenly spaced making sure that there was one close to each outer end…but not too close as there’s a screw to hold it down….I don’t think I’d put the mounting clips on the lip and then try to put the trim onto the lip & clips…seems pretty awkward given the way I took it off although that’s probably how the factory would have done it?,

(C) mount the trim starting from one side and working my way towards the centre and then around to the other side….assuming the two trim pieces fit together in the centre hasn’t been compromised…that is, if it was polished or re-chromed they still fit together as per original…the female? side has the same size opening.

Sounds pretty simple but I’m sure you’ll have a lot of fun getting it all centred.

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Q: Replacing Convertible Top (Vinyl)

I need to replace the vinyl for my convertible top. Does anyone have any tips?

A: I’ve replaced two tops on my 1969 Firebird the things I recall are:

1. Make sure its at least 70 degrees out side (This allows the top to be stretched)

2. Buy a new tack strip (This goes on the front bow on the bottom side) and glue it down.

3. Use a HD staple gun that works with the small diameter round end staples.

4. Measurer the locations and angles of the roof supporting bows before you remove the old top. Use these measurements as references for the new top.

5. Apply spray on glue on the top of the front bow to help keep the convertible top from pulling out the staples on the tack strip that on the underside of the bow.

6. Last – The fist top I installed was the low density cheapy stock type vinyl material. This install was relatively painless. (This top lasted 5 years out in the Texas sun about the same time the rear window started to smoke over.)

– The second top was the HD high density vinyl. This was a bear to work with and I never quite got it stretch and install correctly. But 7 years later the rear window and top are still in very good shape. Very little shrinkage (This top was manufactured by Royal Crown ? Royal something)

The next top I install with be the stock type low density vinyl.

I did buy the fisher body manual , I don’t recall it having a lot of useful information on convertible top installations.

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Q: Tack Strips for Bows

I have a few questions:

1. The top bows need new tack strips. APE and Year One sell universal tack strips that should fit some of the bows, but where do you find the ones that go in the last bow above the rear window and in the tack bars that attach underneath the rear well, holding the rear of the top to the body? They are different sizes…

2. Any hints on installing the top would be appreciated…I have the Fisher Body manual which has a detailed instruction set, but other useful comments would be great!

3. Should I flush the hydraulic fluid, or does it not go bad?

4. What is the correct color to repaint the bows?

A: I installed a new convertible top back in 1976 on my first 1969 Firebird. I didn’t have a clue what I was doing, had NO manual, and just took my time, total was around 24-25 hours. I repainted the bows, probably wrong then. I think they get a satin finish, likely 30 percent gloss, but I need to find my color charts to see if it’s listed for the top frame.

For tack strips (this was before the hobby recognized these cars, and trim parts were mostly gone from the factory/dealer source), I went to an old Italian shoemaker and got scraps of the thick leather he used to make the heels and soles, and cut it into strips that fit, worked great!

You probably don’t need to worry about the fluid, though.

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Q: Top Hydraulic Pump Restoration

I am currently in progress of restoring the pump for my 1968 Convertable top. I have the pump back in great working order, and was wondering if anyone knows if it takes a certain hydraulic fluid, or if regular will work? Is there a recommended way to flush and fill the system when I go to put the pump back on?

A: If I remember right, the Fisher Body Service Manual says to use Dextron II Automatic Transmission Fluid. This manual is available at most Firebird parts companies.

As a side note, my system had brake fluid in it when I bought it, I had to change a cylinder once and didn’t want to flush and refill the system so I left it with brake fluid and it works fine. I hope there aren’t any long term affects to doing this.

A: Dont use brake fluid in place of any other fluid i.e. ATF or hydraulic fluid, it will attack the rubber and break it down. Use brake fluid only in brake systems!

A: I have been through this two different times, one time wrong, one time right. DO NOT USE STANDARD HYDRAULIC FLUID because it foams and is too viscous. It will burn out your pump motor! Use hydraulic jack fluid ( floor jacks etc.) that you will find in auto parts shops. I recommend that you purchase the kit that AMES performance engineering sells for doing this procedure. This kit consists of a Tupperware container, rubber hose, instructions and special hose end that pushes into the pump reservoir. It is a little expensive for what you get but it works well. If you have a fax number I can send you the instructions that came with my kit. You could probably put together the kit yourself.

As far as flushing the old system, I believe that the only way to properly do this is to take apart the lines and stoke the cylinders. If you haven’t used the incorrect fluid yet I would just refill the system

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Q: Top Replacement

After checking with various shops about installing a conv. top on my 1968 Firebird Conv., I’m considering doing this myself. (just can’t see paying $400-$500 just for labor) Anyhow, I did a vinyl top before and it took a good day to do but wasn’t really that difficult. Any thoughts, suggestions on a conv. top ‘do-it-yourself’ project ? How about aby reference material for doing a conv. top ? Fisher Body Manual, Restoration Guides, Articles, etc. ?

A: Yeah, I did one on my first 1969 Firebird back in ’76, spent a weekend doing it. No reference materials, just tackled it in almost complete ignorance, and it came out perfectly. Start at the rear, don’t be afraid to pull it tight as you attach it moving to the front. I’ll give you details later if you decide to try it. Keep in mind I’m no expert, and it’s been more than 20 years, but I did get some advice from the upholstery man my Dad was using then.

A: I have a friend that has done several tops all GM cars with no training, self taught they all look and perform great, His advice to me be patient and save the old top for comparison and marking, get the fisher body manual has good directions, hope every thing works out well.

A: I understand AMES sells a book on this matter. So far I’ve heard about……

Fisher Body Manual AMES Conv. Top Book “Restoring Convertibles” Book (out of print ??)

Personally, I would think the critical details for such a job would be….

1. Measure carefully; recheck

2. Use the correct Tools

3. Make sure you have all required replacement components (good top, pads, tack strips, etc)

4. Let the Top stretch for a few days before hand (warm)

5. Put the Top on while its soft and warm (sunny day works best)

6. Have a friend help

7. Read all the reference material you can find; ask others who have done it.

As with any restoration project, many tasks can be done yourself if you prepare and have patience.

A: I am currently in the middle of replacing the convertible top on my 1968 Firebird.

For reference manuals I am using the 1968 Fisher Body Service Manual and How to Restore Auto Upholstery by John Martin Lee (1994 – Motorbooks International Publishers and Wholesalers)

I am installing a Crown vinyl top purchased from Classic Industries.

I purchased the pads from Ames Engineering.

I have run into one glaring problem in regards to the Fisher Body Service Manual. The manual says that you need to position the rear bow 13-3/16″ from the front of the rear bow to the center of the center bow. I carefully positioned my rear bow with spacer sticks and duct tape to the exact dimensions in the Fisher manual, installed the pads and trimmed them to the rear edge of the rear bow. Imagine my surprise when I attached the back curtain assembly to the trim stick, bolted the trim stick in place and found the top of the curtain about 2-1/2″ short of the rear bow!

Either this particular replacement top is not an exact reproduction of the original top or the dimension given for F cars in the Fisher Manual are wrong.

Anyway, I’ve purchased new pads and my plan is to mark the top, as outlined in the Fisher Manual, as to where it should line up with the rear bow; then install the top via the listing pocket and retainer; then position the rear bow in relation to the marks on the top and secure it again with the spacer sticks and duct tape.

In spite of these setbacks I think it’ll turn out all right. I try at least once to do things myself on my car. For what installers charge around here (metro Detroit) I figure I can purchase and ruin three tops in attempted installations and still come out ahead. ‘Course a professional would get it done a LOT sooner than I will but this has been a pretty leisurely paced project.

If anyone on the list has info about the missing 2-1/2″ in my dimensions I’d like to hear from you.

A: When I replaced my top I ran into the exact same situation ( I also had to buy a second set of pads ). The key to getting the rear bow correct is to locate the seam properly on the rear window, and then position the bow so that it hits the notch that is cut in the top. If you don’t get this right, the seam will pull away from the edge where the rear most weatherstripping mounts.

A: If you are going to do it yourself, here are my suggestions:

1. take lots of measurements on where your top bows are now, measure from the header and draw a picture.

2. take the old top off and keep it aside

3. take a day to clean and paint up top bows and ensure tacking strips are OK

4. wire the top bows in position measured in #1, make it strong wire and keep it tight.

5. fit the rear window loosely to the rear top bow and lower tack strip (realize it may not be permanent.

6. fit the top to rear top bow where it has its side tucks (no tacks in rear bow yet)

7. wrap front of top around front header and get a general idea of fit, depending upon how top covers rear window and fit at 1/4 glass you may have to reposition rear top bow and this means refitting rear window.

Once the rear top bow, lower tack strip and 1/4 glass fits the final step of cables and front header takes just a few minutes. My best advice is don’t be intimidated, just when things look like they will never finish(and there will be a point when it will), the last 75% goes extremely fast.

I have found that on many new tops the slide-in top bow(middle bow) has the slide-in pocket mounted in the wrong spot, do not try to position your top with it.

A: First, I do remember that there was a major difference in top quality when it came to comparing the 200 dollar (materials alone) top with the 400 or so dollar one. And since the labor to install is about the same for each (if not a bit more for the cheeper top since it does not fit as well) I strongly recomend getting the more expensive one.

Also, before doing a top replacement it is a really good idea to go ahead and do a bunch of prep work that can only be done with the top off. these jobs include:

Removing and stripping the frame, painting it fresh, fixing rustholes, installing new bushings (if you got’em) and new staple to areas, new weatherstrip, and making sure to get new padding with the new top. Once your frame is ‘restored’ it can be adjusted to fit perfectly with your windows before installing the canvas so that you end up with a perfect fit in the end. Oh yes, and if you have a ele. top- what a great time to clean and refill the pump!

And, there is that ‘packagetray’ area material that can be replaced at this time too.

So, when it comes to the labor, a good shop should be able to do it for 300-400 dollars. It really pays to have a pro do it because there are tricks to it and if you make one mistake, the top is wasted… go buy another one.

I hope this info helps a little.

A: I’ve got a 1968 350 conv. that had a severely dilapidated non-colormatching white vinyl top on it when I bought it. So the first thing I did was shop around for a new top. I also got some advice from my father-in-law who does professional-quality restoration on hot-rods and muscle cars in his spare time. He told me that despite the cost, have a professional top-installer or upholstery shop do the work. Doing it your self, even if your good, is a pain in the ass if you don’t do it all the time, and 9 times out of 10 the job will end up loose-fitting. I priced tops on the net and they varied from $250 for vinyl to $500 for canvas, and professional installation would almost double that. Despite not being originally available on the car, I had a black (original color) canvas StayFast top installed by a shop that only did convertible tops. The whole thing cost ~$850.00 installed, and I’d do it again in a second (the same place would have charged $500 for vinyl, installed). I couldn’t be happier with it. My car is a daily driver in Seattle, WA and despite the rain this winter, my interior has stayed tight and perfectly dry! Now I know that several of you are sticklers for originality, but I’ll put my canvas top next to any new vinyl and I’d bet that 9 out of 10 people on the street would say mine looks better. It really give the car a great look. Anyway, I realize opinions may vary. Good luck. Oh, and BTY, I was recommended against buying the split glass rear windows because the gasket that hold the two pieces of glass together wear out quickly, but I have no personal experience with them. Someone else on the list who has one may want to comment.

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Q: Windshield Header Molding

Is the top of the front windshield on a 1969 convertible suppose to be chrome or painted a flat silver? (the part where the convertible top rests on). How do these get removed?

A: …Starting in 1968, Federal Safety requirements changed the bright chrome plated Conv. Windshield Header Moldings to a ‘dull’ finish on half of the molding. (the side facing the driver). This was to cut down on sun glare. Some say the finish is a bead blasted, brushed finish. Others say it’s a silver spray on finish. I have NOS moldings that have a sprayed on dull finish. The repros available are all chrome plated; no dull finish. The moldings are held on by trim screws.

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Q: Convertible Top Switch for 1968

Was the original switch all black or was the switch chrome. I’ve seen both types.

A: Mines original and chrome as I have had the car since it was new.

A: While your working on it, did the factory do a real sloppy job cutting out the hole for it on yours?

A: Yes, mine is sort of sloppy. Is their suppose to be a bezel of some sort on the outside? Mine does not have one and the looking at the diagram I do not see one.

A: No bezel, just looks like the one above.

A: I’ve burned through 4-5 switches through the years. I used to put the top up and down a lot when it was a daily driver. There are threads here where owners have put relays in the circuit to dampen the high current that burns the switch points.

A: I’ve only seen the black switch being reproduced. Is there a source for the chrome switch? I’ve seen a few Nos on ebay . I currently have a black switch.

A: Performance Years part number RFI242

A: Mine is black (early 68) and it is original. I have also had mine since it was new and know I have never replaced switch. Purchased new January 1968. Never a problem with the top motor or switch.

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