Painting Base Clear or Acrylic Enamel
Short answer: “Base/clear” isn’t a single paint — it’s a basecoat/clearcoat system available in lacquer, acrylic enamel, urethane, etc. The recommended choice today is urethane base/clear: about $100–$200 more, very durable, with a deep gloss. Don’t worry about matching the original paint type unless you’re going concours — just use an original color.
When the cars were built there were no acrylic enamels — only lacquer or synthetic (“synthol”) enamel, both less durable than modern finishes. GM originally used RM acrylic lacquer, but today’s lacquers don’t have the same chemistry, so re-using that type isn’t worth it.
Color-sanding and polishing the clearcoat levels it to a deeper, mirror-like shine — you can do it yourself with patience, plenty of water, a rubber sanding block, and ultra-fine 600–1000 grit. The biggest beginner pitfall is surface prep: a surface that looks imperfect before paint looks worse after. Reading a current book on auto painting before you talk to your painter usually gets you a better job at a better price.
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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
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