Frequently Asked Questions

Short answer: It’s a tricky, patient job. Remove every screw plus the A-pillar weatherstrip and trim (watch for a couple of hidden screws), then roll the header chrome forward toward the front of the car — start with the piece that overlaps the other at the center, above the rear-view mirror.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Blowing fuses while raising/lowering the top means the pump motor is drawing too much current — most often from low fluid / a leak or a failing pump motor. Check the fluid first: if a cylinder is leaking and the level is low, topping it off often cures it.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: The “F P R” / “F P L” stamp on the outboard side of the front side rail most likely reads Firebird (or F-body), Power, Right/Left — i.e., a power-top front side rail (confirmed from a 1968 Firebird with a power top).

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Mother’s Convertible Top Cleaner, followed by Mother’s vinyl protectant — which also works well on plastic and tires.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Kit contents vary by vendor, so check each kit’s list — but typically you’ll want the header sealer (the strip over the windshield) and the top pads, plus the convertible top itself (the top and rear window). Depending on what’s worn, you may also need the rubber weatherstripping, grommets, bumpers, top hold-down bracket, tacking strips, spring and cable assemblies, and pinchweld molding clamps.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Both a chrome and a black 1968 convertible-top switch are correct — owners who’ve had their cars since new confirm both (chrome on some, black on early-1968 cars). There’s no outside bezel; the factory hole was often cut sloppily.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Water in the rockers is actually by design — runoff from the rear windows drains into them. There’s a drain at the rear inside edge of each rocker: look under the car just ahead of the rear wheel well for a rectangular opening (sometimes with a small square rubber flap), plus a hole toward the front. If these clog, the trapped sand and moisture is exactly what rots the rockers out — so keep them clear.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Removing 1969 convertible exterior trim is a big job — here’s what each piece involves:

Tip for hardtop drip-rail moldings: tape the rounded end of a cheap bottle opener and use it to pop the corner piece off, then work along the molding.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Yes — you can convert a manual top to power. You’ll need the pump, cylinders, hose kit, a dash switch, and the wiring. Year One’s catalog has a factory diagram. (Note: the frame’s side rails and links also differ between manual and power — see the “Manual vs Power Top Parts” FAQ — so many find swapping the whole frame easier than adding cylinders to a manual frame.)

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: The power and manual convertible-top frames differ in more than just the cylinders — the roof side rails (and their welded brackets and levers) are different. Fitting power cylinders to a manual frame bends the side linkage, so if you’re converting, it’s usually easier to swap the entire frame. The front header bow and cross bars appear to be shared.

FOLDING TOP SIDE ROOF RAIL (Front)
  7639042/43   67-9 F  w/manual top
  7639044/45   67-9 F  w/power top

FOLDING TOP SIDE ROOF RAIL (Center)
  7639060/61   67-9 F  w/manual top
  7639062/63   67-9 F  w/power top

BOLT, roof rail ctrl. link to front rail (power)
  7641987      67-9 F   (3/8-16 x 1 5/8)
BUSHING, roof rail ctrl. link to front rail (power)
  7641986      67-9 F
BUSHING, lift to rear rail (power)
  4613551      67-8 F
WASHER, ctrl. link to rear rail (power)
  4414102      67-9 F

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: That rear-deck molding is held by six screws plus retaining clips. The screws are only reachable after removing the three rear tacking strips bolted to the body — fold the top back a bit to get at them (a ratcheting screwdriver helps). Remove the molding with its clips still attached, pulling it toward the car’s interior at the 45° angle of the pinch weld.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: The pinchweld molding around the rear top-well opening is held by about four Phillips screws and ~8 trim clips (not bolts). Use a trim-removal tool to release the clips and it comes off easily. While it’s off, inspect the pinchweld area — it’s very prone to rust.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: You can remove just the cylinder (not the whole assembly). Detach it from the top, take out the seat and rear side-panel covers for access, disconnect the hydraulic hose at the bottom, then remove the bolts/pins near the top. The outer pin is the hard part — there isn’t much room, so pry gently with a large screwdriver to make space.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: The motor spinning freely after lifting partway is the classic low-fluid / leak symptom. If you see no puddles near the quarter panels or pump, it may just be slowly weeping seals — refill and purge the air. If there’s an obvious leak, fix it before refilling.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: The chrome strip around the trunk-well lining is held by Phillips screws plus retaining clips, over a strip of putty/sealer. Remove the screws (mostly on the seat-back side, plus one facing up at each end), then start at one end and gently wiggle the strip loose — the putty under it grips hard, so soak the whole length with penetrant (RP7/WD-40) and take your time.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Tips from a member who’s done two on a 1969:

Material: the low-density stock vinyl is the easiest to install (one lasted ~5 years in the Texas sun). High-density (HD) vinyl is much harder to stretch and fit but lasts longer with little shrinkage. The Fisher Body manual isn’t very helpful on top installation.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: APE and Year One sell universal tack strips that fit many of the bows. For the odd sizes — the last bow above the rear window and the tack bars under the rear well — you may need to fabricate your own; one member cut strips from a shoemaker’s thick sole leather and they worked great.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Use the correct fluid. The Fisher Body Service Manual specifies Dexron II automatic transmission fluid (hydraulic jack fluid is also a good choice).

To flush the old fluid properly, take the lines apart and stroke the cylinders. AMES sells a fill kit (container, hose, special reservoir end, instructions); you can also assemble your own.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Replacing a convertible top yourself is doable and saves the $400–$500 labor — work rear-to-front, pull it tight as you go, let the top stretch warm first, and have a helper. Use the Fisher Body Service Manual plus an upholstery book (e.g., “How to Restore Auto Upholstery”). That said, many find it worth paying a pro, since one mistake ruins the top.

Professional installation typically runs $300–$850 depending on top material (vinyl vs. canvas/Stayfast).

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Starting in 1968, federal safety rules required the convertible windshield header molding to have a dull (anti-glare) finish on the driver-facing half (the outer side stayed bright chrome). NOS examples have a sprayed-on dull finish (some describe it as bead-blasted/brushed). Reproductions are all bright chrome with no dull finish. It’s held on by trim screws.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.