Convertible Trim Removal for a 1969
Short answer: Removing 1969 convertible exterior trim is a big job — here’s what each piece involves:
- Front fender “louvers”: the hardest. Held by stamped-steel speed nuts from behind — essentially impossible to reach without loosening or removing the fender.
- Convertible well molding: first remove the screws (one each side toward the front, inside the well facing the top; possibly one in the middle), then gently twist/push it toward the rear so the inner lip clears the clips.
- Windshield lower molding: screwed on — remove the windshield valence to reach the screws underneath (a clip at each end sits behind the top of the fender, so you may need to loosen the fender).
- Windshield top/side moldings: need a special Y-shaped trim tool with hooks that catch the clips (pull toward the center to release). The A-pillar molding is screwed and strip-caulked — remove the windshield molding, weatherstrip, and weatherstrip track to reach the screws, then work it free carefully (these pieces are scarce and expensive).
- Nose / headlight bezels: the fiberglass bezels use five long carriage bolts each. Drop the whole nose to reach the top corner bolts; soak the nuts in penetrant the night before. Easiest path is to remove the whole front bumper assembly (about six bolts/nuts) and lay it face-down, then cut off the lock nuts rather than unscrewing, to avoid cracking the plastic headlight-surround tabs. Save the spring and plastic washers.
Tip for hardtop drip-rail moldings: tape the rounded end of a cheap bottle opener and use it to pop the corner piece off, then work along the molding.
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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
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