Body Mount Replacement
Short answer: Replacing deteriorated body mounts is a doable DIY job. Inspect the frame perches first — rusted or cracked perches must be repaired before new bushings go in — then work one side at a time with a hydraulic jack and patience. Break all four bushing bolts loose first, lift the body at the front of the rocker panel about ¾”, and swap each two-piece bushing. Never remove both bolts on one side at once, and don’t fully tighten any bolt until all are installed.
Before you start — check the perches: On rusty cars the perches the mounts sit on can be rusted paper-thin and cracked, which is unsafe until rewelded and reinforced. A common repair is to “sandwich” the frame with large washers tack-welded in place. Jagged or rusty metal will quickly chew up new bushings.
Getting the bolts loose:
- Soak the threads for a couple of days first — many prefer Liquid Wrench (a true penetrant that cuts rust) over WD-40 (more of a lubricant).
- Rock the wrench back and forth rather than using brute force in the “off” direction only; a breaker bar with a pipe extension helps.
- A few hammer taps on the bolt head can help break things loose.
- The subframe bolts are at the base of the firewall and under the front seat pedestal. Remove the front seats and fold back the carpet to reach/soak the rear ones; if you have a torch, heat the captured nuts in the seat-pedestal area before removing those bolts.
- Expect some bolts to come out only half-intact — that is common.
Procedure (one side at a time):
- Break loose all four body-bushing bolts.
- Put a piece of 2×6 on the jack to spread the load and lift the body at the front of the rocker panel until the frame separates about ¾” — a pry bar can help.
- Remove one bolt completely (leave the other on that side loose with its nut on), support the body on jackstands (with wide 2″-thick wood between the stand and floor), and pull the bushing.
- Now is the time to apply POR-15 or another rust inhibitor to the bushing seats on the subframe and body — these areas are prone to rust. The new bushing is two pieces: one sandwiched between body and subframe, the other under the bolt head on the underside of the subframe.
- Install the new bushing and bolts (not tight), do the other bushing on the same side, then repeat on the other side.
- Only after all four are in place, tighten them down.
Realigning the subframe holes with the floor can take some fiddling — the subframe arms may need to be squeezed together slightly to match. Doing this with the engine and front clip in place adds some difficulty but is still manageable.
On frame/subframe connectors: bolt-on connectors can be welded in (but you’ll lose access to 4 of the 6 cage nuts that retain the leaf springs); the manufacturer recommends cross-drilling where the subframe meets the connector and bolting each with four ½” bolts; and they will not fit a convertible without notching either the connectors or the offending brace under the car.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
← Frequently Asked Questions
