Frequently Asked Questions
Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked and answered on FGF. Special thanks needs to be given to all the FGF members who took the time to respond to other member's questions.
Body - Vinyl Roof and Trim Moldings
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: The vinyl top was a genuine scheduled factory option — not a way to hide bad welds. But if a top was added after the body shop, it was installed at the dealer; there was no facility to apply vinyl at the factory. The factory did weld special trim-mounting studs to the roof of vinyl-top cars (the same kind of studs that hold the window moldings).
From former GM body-shop workers:
- Studs around the window frames were installed freehand, so uneven spacing or edge distance is a tell.
- On cars without a vinyl top, the roof-to-quarter and windshield-post seams were filled with lead solder and ground smooth — a skilled job. Waviness, grind marks near the drip rail, or lead buildup at the drip-rail end mark a new worker’s work; inspectors had “metal finishers” touch up bad ones.
- Vinyl-top cars got a Bondo-like filler in those seams instead (likely to save cost). So if you permanently remove a vinyl top, plan to redo that seam. (Some original vinyl-top cars do show body solder at the pillars and sail panels, just poorly finished, with the rain gutter not sealed.)
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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: Yes, you can pull the vinyl top and repaint as a hardtop — but expect to find problems underneath. The factory didn’t finish the bodywork or paint well under vinyl tops, so you’ll often find rough lead joints at the tops of the quarters and sometimes hidden rust (one owner found his roof rusted through under the top).
Doing it right:
- If the top is coming off for good, weld the trim holes closed (no Bondo). The trim “tits” can be hacksawed off and ground smooth — use minimal heat and cool carefully so you don’t warp the panels.
- Take the whole top area to bare metal, use metal prep, then a good urethane or epoxy primer.
- Keep in mind that deviating from stock (e.g., a custom color) lowers the car’s value if resale matters.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: Accounts of the factory finish under a vinyl top vary — some report full primer/paint with the roof seam filled by a Bondo-like product, others found body solder at the quarters and pillars, and a body shop reports bare metal under the top. The practical advice for replacement: protect the metal with a good rust-inhibiting primer (e.g., Eastwood’s), but don’t build up too much material (it can make the top lift), and lightly scuff the primer before applying the new top.
- A former GM Fremont-plant worker: vinyl-top cars got the same tank-dip rust prevention, primer, and paint as the body; the quarter-to-roof seam was filled with a Bondo-like product (non-vinyl cars had that seam filled with lead solder, then ground smooth).
- Others note their vinyl-top cars had body solder in the roof joints, just poorly finished under the top.
- A body-shop owner advises it was bare metal at the factory and warns that too much buildup can lift the top — he recommends a corrosion-resistant primer, lightly scuffed.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: For a good-but-faded top, a professional vinyl dye brings the black back and holds up well. SEM vinyl & leather dye is the standout — durable, easy to apply, around $20 a pint (enough for a couple of tops).
- SEM application: clean with a wax-and-grease remover, scuff with a Scotch-Brite pad, wipe with alcohol to open the pores, then apply ~3 coats with a foam brush (or spray). It’s easy to re-do if it ever fades.
- Alternatives: a professional vinyl dye from a local interior installer (skip the cheap $3 spray cans — get several opinions first). To simply replenish the vinyl’s oils, baby oil or Vaseline works — leave it on a while, then buff off the excess (also works on tires).
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Content last modified: June 9, 2026 at 7:10 am
