Rubber fuel filler hose USA made by Gates with clamps. This will cure your gas spills during fill up and gas smell. $30 shipped to you. Paypal OK. Power steering hoses, pressure hose is a hard to find AC Delco, new, the return hose is also an AC Delco, slightly used. $65 shipped for both hoses.
Yes, +12v from the battery to the horns should test them.
First trace the horn black wire back to the relay rather than the red wire.
The buzzer is activated by the key in the ignition and the door open and the buzzer circuit is separate from the horns circuit. I only mentioned wiggling the key with the door open because it is a very easy test and it is "semi-broken" in my '68.
I checked various '68 documentation that I have and other Firebird and Camaro forums and find no other standard horn relay '68 mounting locations other than on the radiator support under the regulator.
Is your '68 the convert in your Photobucket? Beautiful car! Coincidentally, we passed a '67/'68 white convert while vacationing in Germany in 1998. Going in the opposite direction on a divided highway, I didn't get a good look at it. I was just surprised to see a 1st Gen there and remembered it.
Yes, I got the measurements. My front to back dimensions are within 1/8". The diagonals are about 3/8" longer from one side to the other. It appears the subframe is shifted a bit towards the passenger side, relative to the body. At this point I'm going to leave it alone until I get some time to take all the front panels off and start from scratch with panel alignment. I'm afraid if I start moving the subframe around with the panels on, I will be mashing panels into on another.
I agree. As long as the panel line up and the car does not drive side saddle you should be fine. Did see that link to the Eastwood tool? You can use it to save the exact location of your body panels so when you take off and put panels back on, you don't have to adjust them again.
Do a search and then you can ask a question if you don't find what you are looking for.
I did a quick search and found a couple of posts with similar symptoms to yours and the recommendation was to open up or resize the down channel restrictors (DCR)
"Down Channel Restrictions are part of the idle circuit in the main body. The size of this orifice will restrict fuel flow during idle. When increasing compression and cam on an engine, these should be enlarged to allow more fuel to flow with less vacuum."
I’ve always had good luck with Moog suspension parts. I have KYB gas shocks on all four corners. Relatively cheap for the performance but not cushy. Also had good luck with Monroe’s higher end offering.
The fill plug is on the right side, forward of center just about level with the bottom of the axle tube. Proper oil level is with the oil just at the bottom of the fill hole. As Bob says you have to take the cover off to drain, if you leave the top bolt in and just loosen it enough to separate the cover at the bottom until the oil drains, it may make the job a bit less messy. I also agree with Dennis, I only use regular 80/90 hypoid oil and avoid synthetic. Some gear oil comes with posi trac fluid additive already mixed in, but I don't think it's enough of a percentage. I used it but added some additional posi additive as well.
Seems like a big hassle having to take the cover off rather than just open a drain plug, but at least with the cover off you can get all the crud out and also check over the diff while your at it. Things do come loose once in a while.
I'm not sure all replacement pads are bad. I removed the black replacement dash pad from my 69 and dyed it green to go with my green interior. It came out and went back in fine and looks very good to me. Doug
Thanks!! I know it’s not “original” looking, but mainly just wanted something different and cool looking to cruise around and always loved first gen Birds! Bought the thing literally in pieces and boxes.
Has 255/60-15’s on rear.
Anyone have a clue of what that measurement is on a original not worn out set of Springs?
Hmmm, if you have a stock BOP in your car now and an 8.5 sitting on the garage floor, can you measure them to get the difference in length from the end of the yoke to the centerline of the axle? If indeed the 8,5 is one inch longer than the BOP 8.2 they could make the shaft one inch shorter like you suggested. Would be wise to confirm the one inch first. Also tell them the size of the U-joint so they can weld in the correct yoke onto the back of the driveshaft.
That certainly makes sense. There MUST be a system for replacing lost fuel volume. But what I don't understand is how it lets air in? I clearly see the "out" mechanism? I am always fascinated by simple effective, and usually older, engineering.
In any event my cap seems to be working. However on occasions I have opened the cap a felt what I would consider to be too much pressure. I have not associated this with poor performance. Only noticed when getting gas.
Actually the 69 bird tilt steering W/ floor shift is more readily available than u would think. The same tilt column was used in several Pontiac models and for several years. According to this guy. I purchased a tilt column for floor shift several years ago For my 1969 Firebird, from a guy in Jackson Wi. He specializes in tilt columns, rebuilds them. I found him at the Jefferson Wi car show. He claims to have over 8000 columns for GM cars It fit like a golden glove
Looks like that right rear took a pretty hard hit from the rear. Pushed in the tail panel a bit too. If I remove the cocktail shaker brace I think I can get up in there and bump some of it out. Not going to be easy though.