Can someone help me with the hood tach location on a 69 trans am hood, I made a templete from the original 67 ram air hood I have but it won't work on the trans am hood, scoops are in the way
I hope the owner thinks that the black hood and trunk lid look good because I certainly don't. But since it is a "restoration" that must be the way it cam from the factory.
I can share a bright spot, at least in my own life. My oldest is now a civil engineer. He has been doing well for the last few years at the firm where he was hired, before he graduated college. He has also been working with me since he was about ten years old weekends and summers, at our family construction company. He has been with me on additions, custom homes and commercial projects. When he was hired by his company he was told that one of the reasons they chose him was his hands on job site experience. He says that day to day he uses the things he learned actually working on our jobs more than the things he learned in school. Especially problem solving. He still helps me on weekends, and I have to say it I enjoy working with him immensely. I even understand one or two of the things he says when talking about his job. LOL
Open compressors have a weak spot, the shaft seal, clutch is probably going too. A lot of car AC;s get over charged and they have an accumulator to accept this, with winter coming the seal will shrink and come spring, no charge. They tend to seal better in warmer weather, which is why so many people say "it worked last summer".
Agree, but what I do on everything is coat gaskets with hi temp never seize, I have found it works great and gaskets peel off, no scraping.
I would suggest driving the car for 5-10 miles and get the rear warm to hot before draining, don't drain it cold, and inspect the fluid for metal, a lot of grounds would not be good, some shavings are normal, check the gears while you're open, mine ran fine and no noise and I found a pretty good size chip missing from my pinion gear and it became a complete rebuild, it actually started with an axle bearing started to weep and morphed into a complete tear out to a shop, had them put in an Eaton posi unit, tougher than stock and no one knows by looking.
It really depends on how stuck in the head about being "original", if your is 100% original down to the dated plug wires and only driven to shows to be judged by people who know what to look for and will hit you for points on not having those things well then yeah go for the ones that came with the car, as far as what "we're supposed to be doing" ?? let's relax a little, myself I hate "restomods". I like a rake, I run air shocks in the back and gas charged in the front, I don't like the way they sit from the factory nor how they drive, if someone looks under my car and says "gee pal you're running the wrong shocks" I say I come to shows to see other cars, I don't need a $2 trophy to stroke my ego.
Yes we did A few years ago we toke the car out of winter storage. The passenger door would not open. Laying across the center console I got lucky and was able to take off the panel. That was the easy part. Using a Dremel tool I had to cut out the door latch very carefully. Found out later that the three screws that held the latch came loose enough that latch would not open the door. So here is suggestion make sure you check the those screws that hold the latch on once in awhile to make sure they are tight. Trust me you never want to cut out the latch it is not easy.
Your welcome. Honestly, the 4 wheel drum brakes, even in fine repair, left a lot to be desired. I drove my ‘68 for many years prior to switching. So glad I did.
I had a similar issue a while ago, little different application, but I wasn't getting full extension from the brake resetting to the out position. I pulled the pin on the clevis, popped the master cylinder cover to release pressure, and started adjusting it out to make sure their was no residual pressure on the master cylinder push rod. Once I thought I had it adjusted correctly, I jacked up one wheel an inch off the ground, started the car and pressed the brakes about 50 times. Went and spun the wheel and it was releasing correctly. I always try the simple solution first.
I am looking at this rebuild kit from Firebird Central website, seems like a good deal for all you get for the price. Does anyone have a review on the quality of this kit or etc before I buy?
