Looking to buy a vent block plate used on 69 Firebird with AC and is mounted behind the driver's kick panel. The picture is from The Parts Guy who does not have any left. Let me know if you have one I could buy or know where I could get one.
The electrical plug behind the instrument cluster - do I pull the ends apart to remove the plug or do I squeeze the bottom to remove the plug. I have my dash ready to come out, just need to remove this electrical connection without breaking it. Thanks for your help. Wingman
Rus, those are super helpful! It's pretty clear to me that my windshield headers are distorted, so that's part of the problem at least. I have a half inch gap above the rearview mirror boot, so that's obviously wrong. One other question - when you fold your visors out to the side, are they parallel to the top frame? I just discovered mine go uphill about 20°, so the ends hit the inside of the top. Thanks!!!
I’m restoring a 1967 Firebird Convertible and purchase d OER interior pillar post molding. They do not fit very well. Is there any other companies that manufacture this part.
I’m looking for a column shift indicator (part # 9788744 ) for a Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 transmission. It’s for my 67, but the same part was used in 68. I also need a transmission control lever ( part # 3914815 ) with a black knob. Have to be willing to ship to Canada.
As you can see, there are things that don't seem to fit right. This car is a work in progress...dealing with maintenance and other issues that have been put off for 20+ years.
Hello all. we have started manufacturing the 69 firebird stacked gauges setup. These are NOT like the old style with plastic housings and siliconed wires. These are metal housing, Printed circuit board wiring reworked to fit an idiot light car. I am working on them every day to get them shipped daily. you can see them, and order from firebirdspecialty.com
I'm not close, but I can take some pics. My weatherstripping looks original. You take pics of what you want from what angle and Ill duplicate it on my car.
Anyone in the Cedar Rapids area or eastern Iowa, with a convertible? I got my windshield headers rechromed, put on new w/s, and did some rust mitigation to the top front bow. The passenger side of the top doesn't sit right, and I want to look at one that's correct to see where mine's messed up. Thanks!
I'm pretty sure that it was an option on any '69 Firebird. It was popular on the Trans-ams because the more popular hood tach could not be mounted on the T/A specific hood.
Hello guys!! Its been awhile since i have been online here, my 69 is finally almost done with all the body work! My question is about the stacked gauges on the 69 TA. where they strictly on the 69 TA or was the option available for all of 69 Firebirds
Picked up a completely rebuilt 4 speed Saginaw from "Old School 4 Speeds" in Vermont. Dave is a great guy who has his own shop (I visited it and he had probably 12 newly rebuilt Muncies, T-10s, and Saginaws) at his home. He worked at dealership in Springfield rebuilding these same transmissions back '60s through 80s when they were covered under warranty, no questions asked ! A wealth of drivetrain knowledge. Also picked up correct original Saginaw linkage and competition shifter for Firebird from him, all adjusted ahead of time and assembled. Also got original refurbished bell housing from him with clutch fork assembled, new factory paint. His stock on hand is amazing. Shifter assemblies for most everything with linkages.
Followed Oldslow's advice and picked up a forged steel flywheel and upgraded Ram clutch from Summit. Went with his recommendation for 3.11 first gear ratio with my 3.08 rear. Also put in a new Yukon LSD with new Summit axles - old axles were shot with wear. (My rear end is GM, not BOP, so Yukon posi fit - easy install, backlash, shimming, etc)
Some issues with new z-bar linkage kit covered in separate thread that Big Chief and Oldslow helped me with. Arm needed to be cut, shortened, re-welded to clear master cylinder. I think this was due (?) to past frame rebuild (rust) and new motor mounts ... needed 1/8" less for clearance. Not sure ... but it worked !
Car gearing is beyond awesome. Oldslow was dead on. 4 speed is smooth, takes off like it has 4.11 rear, and cruises at 70 mph @ 2400rpm. I thought second gear would come on too fast with the 3.11 first, but it is perfect. I baby her, so am hoping the Saginaw holds up behind the 400's torque. Dave at "Old School 4 Speeds" said he put many Saginaws behind 400s back in the day with highway gears. He said "Don't beat it and she will last for decades" ..... we will see !
Thank you all for great advice and walking me through the manual conversion. Could not have done it without this forum.
Thanks everyone. Here's what I did. Pulled the z-bar out and greased the hell out of it (again), and lubricated both clutch pedal rod and gromet opening at firewall. Replaced the clutch return spring that came in the new z-bar kit with one that matched the looks in the Pontiac service manual. Easy to get once I knew what it was. It was clearly heavier. Clutch pedal pops right up now. Rubber clutch bumper stop I purchased from Ames was just over 1" tall. I shaved it down to 1/8" and pedals line up perfectly. Clutch adjustment easy, drives perfect with new 4 speed. Thank you all !
I've had three different diameter water pump pulleys, didn't have overheating with any. They all kept the temp at 180, even in 100+ temps.
One can get cavitation in water with no air bubbles around when in low pressure areas behind blades. I don't think you have anything to worry about in your water pump.
