Ordered new headman headers and gear drive starter from sumitt. cant wait to install, old headers have holes. ceramic coated also. see what kind of temps i get then. tried to get R.A.R.E manifolds, but they won't email back.. so went with headers again...
Hello Finally starting to rebuild my motor and just starting to start putting parts for sale on here. Can someone give a honest opinion on how much I can possibly sell these heads for. I think they came from a 1970 400. For some reason it not letting me attach my photos. if you provide me email I can send photos Thanks
If you want to drive it often I would jack it up and remove the rear wheels. Then have a friend start it up and put it in drive and get it up to where it should be vibrating. Watch the drums and see if everything runs out smoothly. Also it is possible a balancing weight came off the drum. A good machine shop should be able to check balance on the drums. Hope this helps.
Bad idea running the speed up to 55 MPH with nothing holding the drum on the car.
I ended up ordering a 4 leaf set from Eaton Detroit, was torn between a 1” raise or a 2” raise, then when talking to them, they said they can also do .5” increments, so I split the difference and went with a 1.5” raise, hopefully it gets me close to how it’s sitting now.🤷🏼♂️ Have till Monday to change it, so I’m trying to figure out for sure this weekend if that’s what I want and if I need to change.
When looking through the 68 Brochure, they sure do seem low in the rear, has me wondering if I shouldn’t go with the full 2”??
I agree with Big Chief's advice. I have a similar issue with my 57 Tbird at 45mph. I've narrowed it down to a bent axel or flange and since that's more than I am interested in messing with, I'm living with it for now. The way I narrowed it down was to swap the wheels around first to see if that changed anything. Next I had the driveshaft balanced and installed new U-Joints. When none of this worked I figured since I don't drive the car much I'll deal with it. If you want to drive it often I would jack it up and remove the rear wheels. Then have a friend start it up and put it in drive and get it up to where it should be vibrating. Watch the drums and see if everything runs out smoothly. Also it is possible a balancing weight came off the drum. A good machine shop should be able to check balance on the drums. Hope this helps.
New tires don't mean that they are good. how old are they check the date on the sidewall. the tires could have been sitting stacked on top of each other for 2 years and could be bad. also check bent drive shaft or bad u joints bent rim? bent axle flange?
The Crash Sheets - Frame Dimensions seem to agree with the Service Manual dimensions. Although measured from different places it seems match. The Crash Sheet frame rail is 6 15/16" off the ground. Add the inch+ the rocker is higher than the frame rail and you're at the 8.1".
That said, when relatively new, these cars were very low to the ground. I know mine was.
So I found a few pics and specs looking around web in reference to measuring ride height to rocker panel, but not all the same, can anyone confirm what is correct, or maybe those specs on the one pic are measuring to a different point then where the pic is showing?
The 8” measurement on picture seem more realistic then the measurements given on the spec sheet??
I agree with Gus, the torque of the Pontiac engine, no matter what size, makes it a different animal than any chebby. With all the similarities of the Camaro and the Firebird, It's the engine and the rear end that set them apart. Like you said, the SBCs are a dime a dozen and you can't swing a cat at a car show without hitting a dozen cookie cutter Camaros, if you put a SBC into a Firebird you have a Camaro with slightly different body style. My opinion anyway.
Rubber fuel filler hose USA made by Gates with clamps. This will cure your gas spills during fill up and gas smell. $30 shipped to you. Paypal OK. Power steering hoses, pressure hose is a hard to find AC Delco, new, the return hose is also an AC Delco, slightly used. $65 shipped for both hoses.
Yes, +12v from the battery to the horns should test them.
First trace the horn black wire back to the relay rather than the red wire.
The buzzer is activated by the key in the ignition and the door open and the buzzer circuit is separate from the horns circuit. I only mentioned wiggling the key with the door open because it is a very easy test and it is "semi-broken" in my '68.
I checked various '68 documentation that I have and other Firebird and Camaro forums and find no other standard horn relay '68 mounting locations other than on the radiator support under the regulator.
Is your '68 the convert in your Photobucket? Beautiful car! Coincidentally, we passed a '67/'68 white convert while vacationing in Germany in 1998. Going in the opposite direction on a divided highway, I didn't get a good look at it. I was just surprised to see a 1st Gen there and remembered it.
The amazing thing is, that I believe, that I have it seen in former days. But if you see anything everyday and it gets very common to you, then it's hard to describe, when it's gone. What colour of hair does your wife have? ;-)
My car is left as far as possible to factory conditions. But I have swapt the 350 engine to a 400 recently, but I did not do this myself.
And yes, the horn and the buzzer worked for years. I can't remember, when it stopped working, because I do not use both items all the time. And no, I did not test the horns (2) directly. Can I just take some wire from the battery to the horns?
The buzzer worked, when I had put the ignition in "accessory mode" (turn the key to the last position counterclockwise) and something was still on - maybe the light. But I do not remember this exactly.
I never thought of a worn ignition switch. I will wiggle and test, if that will change something. But will the buzzer also have influence on the horns? And I doubt, anything with the key will make it buzz, because this did not happen for a long time and it would have buzzed some day by accident.
The wires are all wrapped, so I will have to open the wrapping to follow the red wire. I will make some pictures of the compartment tonight.
I have seen some pictures with various locations of the relay. Some on the front wall next to the radiator, some at the firewall close to the brake … distributor(?). There ist nothing at the regulator and nothing at the brake distributor. The only thing I can see there, is some big connector going through the firewall. Are the horn wires going through this connector, too? I could unplug this and check the wire with a gauge from the horns to this Point. If there is a direct connection, there should not be a relay in between, or?