Bought this a while back to fix the fuel inlet on my quadrajet. Only used once, works beautifully and is a permanent fix for worn and leaky threads. It incudes the tap you need, helicoil installation tool, 4 helicoils and instructions. Makes is worth your while if you have a few carbs to do and don't want to disassemble them and sent off to have it done. If you have a drill press and angle plate at home you can DIY. Its easy. I paid $180 for this kit, yeah I know, it was expensive, but extremely hard to come by and would like to get $125 for it. I'll include shipping in the price. This works for all quadrajets 1972 and earlier.
I agree with that. There're are a pile of flat tappet Pontiacs out there with no cam issues at all. I didn't put mine in for any anticipated power gains. After two of my buddies had there camshafts fail within two weeks of each other I was just so afraid of having a cam melt down on me, I went for the roller for some supposed piece of mind. Didn't work out well though. I figured since I had the engine in pieces and had spent a pile of cash on it so far anyway, a roller set up would reduce my anxiety over the camshaft failing. I know of a couple shops near here that won't build an engine without a roller of some type.I guess it only takes one or two bad cams to make one gun shy. I don't know if all the failures we heard about a few years back were due to the oil like the cam companies claimed or if there were just a batch of bad cams. I remember a few years back factory Chebby cams were failing at an unusual rate. But I do know what lifter brand I would and wouldn't buy.
Clean face, good color. Not sure of working condition. Hands move when turning the setting knob. Same as a 1967 clock except 67 use a black backed face.
1968 burl wood center dash panel for AC car. Wood trim in good shape as is the aluminum outer edge, however that could use to be buffed out to brighten.
Roller cams are not needed unless you just feel like spending lots of money for no reason. SFT been in my engine for 10 years now, no problems what so ever. Last 12 Pontiac engines I have built for people have all had flat tappet cams and are all still running.
I would take 200 for housing and carrier and I think I have a ring and pinion gear set also I’m not sure what the gear is I’d have to dig it out of my parts shelf I might even have the backing plates the issue is the shipping I shipped a 350 hood to Ohio thru you ship for 175 the trick is to find someone heading that way and piggy your shipment on to that so it’s cheaper over wise it’s going to pricey
A warning! Please, if you do go with a roller set up, don't buy the Comp Cams 857-16 hydraulic roller lifters. I know there is going to be a pile of folks saying they use CC stuff no problem and it's great etc. etc.! I don't care, don't use them! The first set I got wouldn't hold oil at all. Would work fine for a few miles then clack like out of adjustment solids. I kept phoning CC and they kept telling me to tighten the adjusters more and more. Finally one supposed tech expert told me to tighten them down two and a half turns. I asked him how many turns it would take until the valves didn't close, he didn't know what the hell he was talking about. The dealer I bought them from replaced them, second set weren't much better. Then two lifters broke! That cost me a fortune! Complete tear down, cylinder hone, re-ring, new cam bearings, new camshaft, grind crank, new crank and rod bearings, new seals, new lifters, new pushrods, new rockers, new etc. The folks at the dyno shop told me they'd had nothing but trouble with the comp lifters and wouldn't consider using them on any engine, Pontiac, Ford, Chebby, none. You can used whatever you want of course, but why take the chance when there are better brands out there? Just a warning from experience.
I put in Crower solid rollers, Crower roller rockers and Smith Brothers pushrods. I've only adjusted the solid lifters once since I put them in 7,000 miles ago and they're quieter than the hydraulic lifters.
I don't know why you would have to replace the valley pan, I didn't. You will need to buy an adjustable push rod so you can measure to determine what length pushrods you'll need. After the engine is assembled of course. You may want to have the block deck micro ground for the flattest, smoothest finish you can get and use a quality head gasket such as a Cometic MLS, to insure a good seal between the aluminium heads and the iron block. You'll most likely have to buy custom head bolts, ARP make good ones for the Pontiac. I had to use SCE intake gaskets, don't know if they're needed with Edelbrock heads. Autolite #3924 spark plugs work well with aluminium heads on Pontiac blocks. You should port match the RPM intake to the heads, I did my headers as well.
That's about all I can think you'd need off hand.
Oh yea, if you have power brakes, really tall rocker covers may contact the booster, You shouldn't need the real high ones, must be some that will clear the rockers and the booster, but something to think about before you buy. .
I'm working on a "map" of sorts that shows all holes on the firewall for a '68 Firebird. Will do '67-'69 as well depending on info received. Looking for any photos showing original wire routing on firewall around master cylinder area. Close-up pix of original cars or restored back to original showing wires and holes/grommets.
- Speedo Cable (auto and manual trans. applications) - Backup Lamp Switch Wire (manual trans) - Hood Tach - Conv. Power Top switch to Circuit Breaker
You can post photos here or if it's easier, send them via email: SR71 - at - comcast DOT net
Google found me a place called "United Speed World" in Tampa. I'll drop by there tomorrow to ask a million questions; first and foremost: How much do you know about Pontiac engines?
Don't know what the number of my bellhousing is but it's a stock 68 and my TKO bolts right up no problem. One thing you should check is bellhousing crankshaft run out. The TKO needs the center of the crank journals to be right in the center of the bellhousing register. Mine was out so I used offset dowel pins.
I also have a stump puller, you'll want to be able to flow some good air for that camshaft. My heads flow 310/220 at 55.
I also have the rpm intake, like Bob says some have hood clearance problems with it. I had to lose the one inch spacer and use a drop base filter housing to keep the hood from making contact.
I have read about the offset dowel pins before to make everything line up for the Tremec.
As far as flow rates..... I have been back and forth about using aftermarket aluminum heads and I think life would be easier if I just went that route. I would be able to buy them in the CC I need to get the proper CR for the engine to run right and get better flow. I want to build a full roller motor. To my understanding I will have to replace the valley pan and use taller valve covers. Anything else I need to change as well?
12 initial and 36 total is a common number for our engines, when the vacuum is added we can get close to 50-52 which will be great for cruise and fuel economy. Maybe all you need is to do is use some lighter springs to get more advance sooner. That may give you some more acceleration while keeping the initial and total the same.
Thanks for your input. Not slowly getting worse, its just not as responsive as it was. Its the original untouched engine so with that compression ratio I'm thinking 34-36 total advance should be good. The kit came with 3 sets of springs, one busing and 1 set of weights. I rebuilt the dizzy 3 years ago and know the vac advance works and springs are good and lubed the weights, so nothing stuck and I took out the excessive play. I'll start from baseline and check timing next week, record initial, mechanical advance and total and go from there. Rocky Rotella wrote an article on Pontiac Engine timing and suggested to leave the original weights in place. Only use bushings and springs to get the timing right. I know I have the initial set at 12 believe I was able to get to 36, but don't remember the RPM. I'll record everything and post current settings on here. I think you're right that my curve is just not there cause once the car moves it goes with no problem. I can also hear a slight miss fire at idle and know its ignition related. More to come....
