I had one for a while in my '69 and, like Jim, I pulled it out when I realized that it was holding moisture under it. I had a slight leak around one of the tail-lights that didn't amount to much but with the mat there it couldn't dry out.
Your question got my curiosity about the trunk mats. Years ago I added an aftermarket one but discarded it when it promoted rust from trapped moisture.
If I'm right, my 1972 parts book shows that there were four different trunk mats in 1968. Apparently they had mats cut to accommodate the mounting bracket locations for both Space Save and conventional spares in both coupe and vibration dampener-equipped converts.
It would be nice if the repro mats came with templates to show where to cut for the options.
I had one for a while in my '69 and, like Jim, I pulled it out when I realized that it was holding moisture under it. I had a slight leak around one of the tail-lights that didn't amount to much but with the mat there it couldn't dry out.
OK, mine is also. How do you like the urethane? Mine is just a cruiser, I am not looking to improve handling but would consider urethane if ti is an "upgrade over the stock rubber in terms of ride quality.
Your question got my curiosity about the trunk mats. Years ago I added an aftermarket one but discarded it when it promoted rust from trapped moisture.
If I'm right, my 1972 parts book shows that there were four different trunk mats in 1968. Apparently they had mats cut to accommodate the mounting bracket locations for both Space Save and conventional spares in both coupe and vibration dampener-equipped converts.
It would be nice if the repro mats came with templates to show where to cut for the options.
I am restoring a 1968 Firebird with standard interior. The car did not have a trunk mat in it when I got it. I have read somewhere that the standard interior cars did not come with a trunk mat and deluxe interior cars did. Is this correct? Thanks.
Something doesn't look aligned right there. Note that the front upper X-panels are missing as are the hood to fender bumpers.
I suspect that is not the original engine since it has all the '68 emissions plumbing not on the '67. If you are looking for originality, we can mention a list of non-67 and non-1st gen stuff on the car.
Wondering whats going on the with the front bumper here. Looks like it's sagging on the left side and missing a rubber seal in the front facing pictures. Also, is the lower portion with the chin spoiler likely from a different model of car? Pictures here https://share.icloud.com/photos/0c69CsekjOkMYF1uUTADyN_dg
I’d have to look but I think I have a set of 2 in storage for the last 35-36 years, complete assemblies includes lenses. If you’re interested let me know and I’ll check and take pictures
I just put new 126# 4 leaf springs on my 68 400. These shocks are about an inch too short. I would just get extensions, but I wanted the longer travel length in the TS802s. The TS802s are the proper shock for the hd leafs.
Why not? I used to use the mono leaf shock mounting plates on my multi-leaf 1968 Bird. They had a much stronger double ear that provided support on both sides of the shock bolt mounting eye. I had managed to break the '68 multi mounts. I see where Firebird Central sells those QA1 as mono or multi leaf. But Rock Auto sells the same part number of various brand shocks for both types of springs. Maybe QA1 does something different that requires two different parts? Not trying to be a dork, just want to learn.
I have a pair of QA1 adjustable rear shocks for a 68 mono leaf set up. New in box. Normally $200 each. $300 plus shipping takes the pair. Located in SE Florida.
I'm also in AZ and never had any problem driving my bird without any vacuum advance. I just use the mechanical advance for all the engines i build. There are more factors that contribute to an engine that supposedly runs hot. So what are your initial and total timing numbers?
