Forums

Does this look right? I thought the seam around the tail lights was filled on verts. No?

Huh? I thought only the 67s had the hollow carb bolt? Not so? Was it the pass side or the drivers? Where did that one go?

I've probably got a few of these things but they are all take offs from my rebuild so not perfect of new by any means. Not sure what quality you need.

bump

Sold, Thanks.

in this market why would you even bother with all the hundreds of hours of metalwork when you can buy a done car for a 1/4 of the price of building one?

you wouldn’t even notice any difference with a gear spread of 3.36 to 3.55 at all.
maybe with 3.90 and lower you would but those ratios wouldn’t be much of a difference.

I replaced both floor pans, left & right of the driveshaft hump, if I were to do it again I'd replace the whole floor pan.

Hello,

I am looking for a driver's side traction bar setup. I have the right hand side already. Does anyone out there have one they want to let go?

Thanks for your time!

Bill

Pictures of my floors are in this thread........

You need a good steel panel shaper/welder, body man as like in the factory, panels don't come perfect.

The old VIN cannot be reused. The DMV will provide you with new one. Alter your VIN number and you gets into lots of trouble.

I had my tranny builder beefup my TH400 with better/stronger stock components and a shifter. You can you the stock shifter for the wholesome look or after market one. Either way your going to bury the guy with the 4sp standard. My 400HIO has A/C as well and thus came with 2:56 gears. The owner replaced the 2:56 with 3:91 and turned of the A/C. I bought the car and played with the 3:91 ripping up the pavement. Lot's of fun for a summer, but not practical for old farts. I have my 3:42 Posi available so I'm going to use it as I sold the 3.91.
I think it will be a good combo. Make sure you use the stock Qjet and your ready. IMO, get 3:42, I'd be pissed if the engine booged on 1st jear with 3:36

Hi! I'm having the rear differential on my 68 vert redone at a local shop. I've looked at previous posts discussing gear ratios, etc. I plan on having a standard 400 build with just a little more punch, correct turbo 400 auto, with AC. I'll be doing highway driving and around town on 15" Rally II rims with 235 or 245 60's all around. I know tire height makes a difference. I'm thinking 3:36 or 3:42 gears with a posi carrier. I think 3:55 would be too high. Stock was the 2:56 open. Any huge difference between the 3:36 and 3:42? What manufacturer do you all most recommend? Auburn, Dana, Yukon, Eaton?? Appreciate the feedback!

Forgot to mention it's an 8.5 rear end from a 70's Nova, I believe. I pulled the code from the front of the right axle tube, just don't have it with me at the moment. Thanks!!

Black on inside prevents moisture being absorbed into the seat from the inside door water comes in thru the fuzziness and puddle at the base of the inside door frame area..

Thanks
I thought so, but you would think it would go the other way so the paper would be protected from the water that goes down the window

Black goes out towards the door panel.

Finally restoring my '68 convertible and am looking for the following parts, in good or better condition. Some I will end up buying new but thought I would put the whole list up here. I will add to it as I move along in the rebuild.

Let me know if you have any of the items via either email or PM.

Thanks!

Rear bumper with good chrome
Gas tank
Rear ¼ panels, half or full or even patch panels
Front fender passenger side, just need lower front half where the battery acid leaks onto it.
Seat covers for the front buckets or complete seats, any color, maybe back seats also, waiting to see if they dry out properly
Battery tray and inner fender piece right under that
floor pans drivers and both rears
Full carpet set
Door cards any color
All window fuzzies
Convertible top white
Convertible top frame, or just the front header bow
All rubber moldings for the entire car, doors, windshield, top etc.
Convertible windshield top chrome panels, where the top header meets the windshield frame
Trunk pan rear portion

I have a set of repo watershields, the paper with the black waterproofing tyre, which way did the black side go originaly, black side to the door or to the door panel?

I sure wish someone would make the plastic piece that covers the door handel mechanism on the deluxe door handel that goes on the watershields for deluxe interior cars

.

Atta boy!

Thanks guys. I don't think I have anything to worry about after hearing from you and talking to a few local shops. I just leave the doors closed when it's just on the hoist, and for the most part, it's just sitting lightly on the blocks so the flex is relieved and the doors are free to open.

The project is moving along nicely, thanks for your help.

Cheers

This has probably been covered previously, but had a question regarding the color coding.
So it appears the red striped hose goes to the "T" in the back of the carb. The yellow striped hose that was connected to the passenger side of the carb was eliminated and the carb port is plugged. The hose that connects to the distributor advance...is that one color coded or just "black"? The hose that routs from the "hollow" carb bolt to the A/C canister is just black also? Thanks is advance.

No doubt there is a reason you don't hear about more people using them. Even with a million parts to swap.

I'm sure the body bushings are wiped out and are contributing to the flex.

When I was in the shop, I always put the pads as far forward on the front stub frame, behind the front wheels, as possible. And the rear pads always went on the leaf spring front mounts just ahead of the rear wheels.

Some flex is to be expected - all cars do it.

Unless you need the doors open, leave them closed, or open them before you lift.

And yes, my doors were difficult to open as well.

1971- 74 Firebird 455 HO MOTOR 485428 YY On Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-74-455-HO-MOTOR-485428-YY/362944547404?

125.00 plus shipping