When I did mine I had to remove the cylinders completely. That means removing the side panels, the rear seats and backrest, and accessing the bolts that the cylinders pivot on. The cylinder rod eyes must also be unbolted from the top mechanism. This is a BIG PITA. The worst is that the pivot bolts don't want to clear the bracket that the cylinder pivots on so the cylinder can be removed. I ended up removing the entire bracket to get the bolts out- then shaving them down enough to let the cylinder pass into the bracket. According to the FSM they should just pass with no problem. Not on mine. It's as if they used bolts that were too long, or inserted the entire assembly as a unit. Either way, getting the cylinder out is an exercise in frustration. If you unbolt any of the adjusting nuts and bolts- MARK THE POSITION so they can go back in exactly the same way. A paint pen works well for that.
Since you are changing the hoses, you must also try and purge as much air as possible before buttoning it all up. I had to rebuild my pump because the O-ring that separates the oil reservoir from the motor leaked and flooded the motor. After I did that I took the cylinders, the hoses, and the pump, and placed them all on my work table. Then I went about bleeding all the air from the lines. It is an endless procedure but worth it. The FSM has a procedure that sort of works. You must fabricate a bleeding hose that uses an extra rubber motor plug. As the pump operates, air in the reservoir is expelled into a catch can full of DEXRON. You add DEXRON to the pump to keep it filled. In my opinion that is OK if all you have is a bit of air in the lines. But if the cylinders and hoses are empty I prefer my way. I tilted the cylinders so all the air rose to the hose fitting end. Then I pumped it so as it emptied, the air went through the hoses back to the pump. See the pics. No air at all in the lines.
I don't know if I did all this the hard way or not. If there is an easier way please post it. If the cylinders can be removed by just loosening the pivot bolts that would be ideal. Mine did not do that and led to the disassembly of it all so I could modify the bolts. I hope you have better luck than me.
hoses were brittle bought new hoses bottom cylinder hoses easy to get to. but top are impossible how do you change? pull cylinders out? loosen them? has to be advice from someone who has done it before. thanks tm in vacaville calif.
In search of and willing to buy a serviceable ‘67 Rochester 2 barrel off a 326. Part number should start with 702716(X) or 702717(X) where X is an even number if I’m not mistaken. Car is a non-California emissions automatic.
I just checked the Rocky Rotella "Definitive Firebird and Trans Am Guide 1967-1969" and found some interesting trivia about the subject. It says that it was planned that all coupes in '68 were to have shoulder belts but an internal document Aug. 23, 1967 rescinded the plan. They continued with them as optional. 26,616 coupes (about 30% of production) got the Deluxe Belts and Shoulder Harness option in 1968.
Edit 3/30/25: After reading the following post by Dennis, I realized I mis-read the option above. I likely is simply the upgrade to Deluxe belts (lap and shoulder) The 754 option adds front shoulder belts for both standard and Custom (deluxe). The Rotella book shows production numbers for convertibles but not coupes.
I have taken a lot of Firebirds apart. I have never seen a provision for a shoulder belt in the roof. My plans for my convertible always included a three point belt like the second gens used. That is another reason why I am adding a roll bar. It can be the shoulder strap mounting point. The first shoulder belt I came across was in my 1972 Catalina. The belt was removable from the lap belt, and could be stored in clips that were in the headliner above the window channel. I guess no one has a bare coupe to take a pic of that shoulder belt mounting area. I think seat belts became mandatory in 1965. People grudgingly used them at the time [some still don't] . I would be amazed that they actually provided a mounting point for a shoulder belt, unless it was a performance orientated car. That video says they did.
Mine has the PD emissions sticker. I suspect the PC may be for full size Pontiacs with the 400 4 barrel.
The PR air cleaner is the one for a '68 Firebird 400 4bbl equipped with the code 731 heavy duty air cleaner option and uses an A279C AC air cleaner. There should also be an additional label for the PP standard air cleaner using the AC A212CW for the 400 4bbl. Examining the two elements, the A279C looks like a A212CW with an additional foam wrap around it.
I need your help when it comes to which sticker is the correct one for my 1968 Firebird 400 HO.
There are two variants:
a) DECAL, Emission, *PD* and *9793147*, repro b) Emission Decal, *PC* and *9794071*, repro c) DECAL, Air Cleaner Service Instructions, white, *A279C*, *PR* and *6424827*, repro
After not seeing any replies, I tried to research your question. None of my Fisher Body, Firebird or Camaro documents and sources provided any help. The logic says that Body By Fisher would likely add the mountings for any GM car in 1968 (for evolving fed edicts in that timeframe). But logic does not always seem to apply to these cars.
I did find this video that may help. They seem to confirm that the answer about the probability and location of the mountings are a possibly, maybe, somewhere. They do show how to locate the mounts, if they exist, with minimal disassembly and damage.
Good day all. Bought a 68 with lap only front seat belts. Would like to upgrade to front shoulder belts. Does anyone know if a provision for shoulder belts is always in the inside of the roof. A threaded tab of some sort I would think. Hate to cut the headliner to find out. Tough question. Thanks, Denis
Yeah, i'm learning about the values the hard way. Still putting a kid through college so it may not happen in this lifetime. Be sure and post pictures so we can enjoy you project too.
Welcome. That is a wonderful thing you did. Such good karma should be paying off for you. Just be prepared for sticker shock. These cars have exploded in value. I see total POS going for big bucks just because they are so rare now. I know, I had a '68 coupe for 16 years as a DD. It rusted out from under me. I saved a '68 ragtop for 30 years and I am now finally getting the work done. I get offers like crazy and it is all in pieces. I just wish I had the energy I had when I first got it.
Hi Everyone, This is my first post so please let me know if I need to post some where else. My name is Mike and I am looking for a 1968 Pontiac Firebird coupe project. I would prefer a V8 car. I sold my 68 400 several years ago to give the proceeds to a buddy's wife and kids after he died of cancer. I don't regret the decision to sell but I do miss my bird. I'm not much of a welder but I am mechanically inclined. I am in the Omaha Nebraska area and would appreciate the chance to own another Bird. Please contact me at mart4117@gmx.com if you have one for sale or know of one for sale please. Thank you
South Louisiana native here. Ive owned my 69' for 40 years, and have recently uncovered it after sitting for 25 years. Started a full-on restoration with a few modern upgrades
So far, full quarters replaced and most of that body work completed. They were not bad, but since i wanted to mini tub....then since i mini tubed the car i decided to 4 link it.... Since i mini tubed and 4 linked it i decided to put a 12 bolt mouser with stran axels .....
Youll see what happen was!!! I bought a 2020 LT4 10SPd
I purchased a 68 bird that came with the floor fully cut out. I'm in the process of replacing the full floor but because I didn't remove it, I've got no reference points or measurements to go from.
So... I'm basically looking for some info, ideas or suggestions on how to go about ensuring that I am positioning the floor in its proper place to ensure the front subframe fits properly and that the front leaf spring mount fits.
Can anyone send me a picture of the back of their 1968 firebird rally gauge cluster? Where the printed circuit is. Im trying to debug what I have and think this may help. Thx!!!
