Q: Rear Window Sticks
The specific incident that I am referring to in regards to a window malfunction is as follows: I lowered the passenger-side rear window about two-thirds of the way. When I tried to raise it the crank wouldn’t budge. One of us had to pull up on the glass while the other cranked. It went up but was left “off track” and tilted forward a couple of inches. I was told by them and others that this is a common problem for Firebird/Camaro owners with no real solution except to leave the windows up or put them back on track in a hurry when it rains at the cruse. As usual, any help you guys can give me is appreciated.
A: Have you ever noticed that convertible rear windows work smoother than coupes? I have (had) both. My theory is that the convertible rear windows get used more because the car looks better that way when the top is down. Unless there is someone in the back seat of the coupe, the windows hardly ever get rolled down.
If your quarter window is tough to move up and down you may want to remove the thirty year old grease (at least it used to be grease) and replace it with some white lithium. If you do a good job, they will work better then your front windows.
A: I had the same problem with my 1968 when I first got it. I pulled the back seat and back door panels to find that both rear windows had broken rollers. These rollers are plastic that fit into a metal track and after 30 years, they just plain give out. I ordered new rollers, I think from Classic Industries for about $3 each. Now both windows work great. Pull the door panels, you may find the same problem, or maybe something else, but it can be fixed!
A: If that’s the case, I would remove the glass. Look at the guide rollers, guides and everything that moves. Get everything clean and lubed. If there are broken, loose or missing parts, now is the time to correct it. Work the regulator without the glass in it untill it is really smooth. Keep checking the lube on the regulator and pivots (ya gotta have the little plastic louvered vent thing removed from the post for this). Clean the rolling parts on the glass untill they operate smoothly. I used a penetrating spray oil to clean, and Tetra-Gun white grease for lube. There are probably better products for this, but that’s what’s on my shelf. When you re-install the glass you make all the adjustments (up and down travel, where the top meets the wx stripping, and the tilt). Things should work better. You still might have to assist the window slightly. Oh yeah, watch what you touch, your hands WILL be filthy! Also, keep small children and tender ears away while you’re working on these D*** windows. Now is the time to install new water shields too. Heck, might as well do the front door regulators too.
The procedure is outlined in the manuals. If you dont already have these, they will pay for themselves in no time. I recomend the chasis service manuel, the Fisher Body Service manual, the Pontiac Parts catalog, and the Parts illustration book. These are the best reference for your car, and the illustrations are good. The price for all four will exceed $100, a price you will forget long after you remember the conveneince and quality. Even if you get stumped, you will have a good idea of what some of us are talking about (assuming we know what we are talking about)!
A: I have had lots of 67-9 Birds and never had one of the windows fall of track they do get stubborn as the gease hardens with age. An easy solution for 1968,69 is as follows. Take out the black plastic “vent” for flow thru ventilation (one screw ) this will enable you to get to the rollers without removing the side panel (sorry 1967 owners you must do this) get a fresh can of Brake Kleen and fabricate an extra long straw to get to rollers and track. Spray until most of the old grease is removed. Get a can of spray white lube and respray the rollers and track. work the window up and down helping it until the grease is worked in. respray and work in again. If this doesnt work then the roller must be replaced, which requires window removal. Forgot to mention that all convert. are minus the flow thru vent. Must do as 1967 hardtop and remove the side panel or possibly just the u shaped weatherstrip to gain enough access
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 8, 2014 at 10:51 pm