Rearend Swap 1968

• Width: measured overall only ~1/4″ wider (1/8″ per side) — not the “1–2 inches” often claimed.
• Multi vs mono leaf: 1968–81 are multi-leaf; a 1967 mono-leaf car needs its old perches reused or a multi-leaf conversion.
• Spring perches: the 2nd-gen perches sit ~2¾” farther out, are ~1/2″ taller (lowers the car that much), and (unlike first-gen) have no built-in angle — so cut them off and weld on first-gen perches, ideally setting the angle with the car’s weight on the springs. Set pinion angle carefully.
• U-joint/driveshaft: match the donor to your trans (350 vs 400 use different U-joint sizes; may need a big/little U-joint); the 2nd-gen sits ~1″ longer axle-to-U-joint, so shorten/replace the driveshaft (and refresh U-joints + trans output seal while you’re there).
• Brakes: parts are essentially the same — order them as the donor year (e.g., 1977); use the donor backing plates/drums; but get brake lines for your original first-gen year so routing matches, and move the rear-cover-bolt line bracket over before installing.
• Also: replace cheap seals (local parts store, ~$1–2), check bearings, recalibrate the speedo for the new ratio, and pull the gas tank as a precaution (especially when changing springs — you’ll likely torch the old bolts).

Parts to have ready:

• Rear end: seals, bearings (optional), brake lines & parts, new posi tag, gear oil + limited-slip additive, cover gasket, backing-plate bolts/nuts.
• Swap: U-bolts & nuts, T-bolts & nuts, upper/lower spring pads, trans output-shaft seal.
• New springs: front eye bushings, front bracket bolts & clip nuts (Ames carries both), eye bushing bolt/nut, shackles/bolts/nuts, rear shackle bushings.
• Gas tank: straps, attaching-bolt kit, tank-to-body anti-squeak kit.