CAUTION: If you're doing the Guldstrand mod, here's what no one tells you:

I'm not a suspension expert, but what I'm saying can be verified in the "Chassis Engineering" by Herb Adams (I think you may have heard of him).

If you look at the Guldstrand template, the new holes are in the same plane, whereas previously the front holes were lined up so that the upper control arm pivots angled upward towards the front.

Why did the OEM engineers do this? It promotes anti-dive when braking. This is because of the "soft" factory springs used for a comfortable ride. The side-effect is an increase in caster as the suspension is compressed.

Bottom line, if you're doing the Guldstr template mod, it removes your anti-dive, so better have some stiff springs!

There is another template that recommends cutting off the mount, modifying it and rewelding in a different location (se Pozzi's site). He calls it another version of the Guldstrand, but I think it came from somewhere else. May be a better choice because it doesn't drop the front pivot relative to the rear quite as much. I can't endorse either since I've never ridden in a car that has this mod.

I suggest to anyone thinking of suspension changes, they read several books (I liked the Adams - but there's others) and really understand cause and effects before cutting up your car. The more I've read the more skeptical about "fixing" the suspension geometry.

Pozzi actually recommends leaving it alone unless you're into competition cornering. Frankly, I'd start with new alignment settings more radial-friendly first (see Adams book and Pozzi's site for suggestions). At least it's easy to put back to stock!