Doug,

Swap meet is the 9th and 10th.

Believe it or not, you can get alot I mean ALOT of gains from properly calibrating the carb and having the distributor curved and tweaked by a good builder. Vacuum leaks and poor or variations in cylinder compression may factor in.

Your setup sounds fine for a high 13 second car. You should set it up, tune the motor as is now, take to track and get a couple of slips.

Then, when time and $$$ allow, have Cliff rebuild the carb and have someone recurve distributor, then goo out and try again. I say you will be 5 to 8 tenths faster.

Heads should be done last AND only when you have tweaked out and corrected any bugs with ignition and fuel flow. If heads done first, then you backtrack, not as fun or exciting as having the basics (fuel/spark) tapped to thier full potential. I can estimate a good port and polish to 240-260 on the intake will get you in the 12's for around 1k or less.

Again be mindful that all factors must compliment each other within a percentage. If you buy a cam, make sure you get thier springs that are recommended. If you get another companies springs, make sure the open/closed pressures and coil bind heights are checked with max lift of cam.

Honestly, the best bang for the buck for first time builders would be the Edelbrock RPM package which is the carb, intake, cam, springs/lifters. Add on the RPM heads, 72 CC, and you'll have a managable and straightforward motor. For Under $2500, this setup is very nice.

Of course, you could go the other route with mixing and matching whatever you have and what you "think" may work, but this method is best suited to those who have been tinkering with what works and doesn't for quite awhile. Yes, this method works as well, but keep in mind that your failures will, at first, outweigh your successes.

As I said before, if you really want a managable, stout motor, try something that is proven to work together such as the RPM package.