To get great performance and good street and pump manners, the obvious attention to detail is in the combination of heads, cam, intake & exhaust. The 428 was one of Pontiacs best stock combinations and you'd have a really hard time doing a better job than they did.
Without an idea of your budget, the following is simply offered as my opinion about how it could be done. This is just scratching the surface.
First, a quick thought about compression ratio ... there's no magic number for the optimum static compression ratio. Consider what gas you want to pay for every time you fill up. The quench and dynamic compression - which are a function of the heads, piston and cam together - will determine how much static compression you can get away with. Here are some of the basic contributors:
Heads: The chamber volume (cc's) will determine the static compression ratio with the piston sweep and dish volume.
Cam: The ICE (Intake closing event) will determine the dynamic pressure in the cylinder on the compression stroke.
Pistons: The dish volume (cc's) will influence the static compression ratio.
Block: The decking will influence the amount of quench volume (discussed recently) which can lead to pre-ignition vs. the dynamic compression.
OK ... so what would that mean for you?
Heads: Big valve heads such as #62 and #13 heads have larger (relatively) 75 cc chambers than #16 (1968) #48, and #12, which are all good starting points. A decent rebuild and - if you want - some basic bowl work, blending and some unshrouding of the valves would do fine. Since you have a 428, the #62 heads would be age-appropriate, but in no way do they differ from #13 heads. The others would require a few more cc's of dishing on the pistons.
Cam: What you probably have is the "067." (You can look it up in the 68 or 69 service manual.) The "744" is one of my personal favorites for a 428 with a manual trans and 3.55 gears. That's about the same as the Summit K2802. For the right cam choice, though, the rest of your car's set up is pretty important. There's no one right answer. Gears, trans choices and the stall speed of your converter will all be factors.
Intake: The factory cast iron is pretty hard to beat. If you want to go lighter, the Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM are pretty good.
Exhaust: Go for the R.A.R.E Long Branch manifolds.
Other details you might want to think about ...
Block work: Your 2-bolt mains are fine. You can add 4-bolt main caps since the block is drilled for them, but use main studs if you do. (You really won’t need them - it's just my brand of over-kill.) Deck the block to -.000 to -.005. Block prep should also include align-boring if you re-cap the block and boring & honing (as always with torque plates installed).
Crank: Chamfer all the oil holes.
Rods should be fitted with ARP bolts & re-sized. Cast rods are great for street performance.
Pistons: Forged is really the only way to go. The dishing will reflect your choice in heads. If you go for #13 or #62, you'll have to size your piston dish AFTER you cc the heads. If you go for larger chamber heads (of which there are many) then you will need less dishing in your pistons. You will want about 95cc of total volume between the piston dish and head chamber, assuming that you zero deck and use a .039 crushed gasket thickness. Why 95? Well, it works out with the ICE of the 2802 cam to give about 170 PSI dynamic compression. That's in the range of 93 octane gas and proper tuning and distributor curving.
Carb: Rochester Q-Jet. Buy Cliff Ruggle's Q-Jet book. If you want to have him rebuild your carb, make sure you send it to him three months ago.
Distributor: I’ve used Unilite distributors for years, and I will always recommend one. A points distributor is perfectly fine.
Did I mention that this is just my opinion? I built my 428 just like that, but with #64 heads (87cc) because I used pistons with no dishing.