If your specific need is not listed (most were not) then go to the Service Manual section that covers removal and replacement of the item you are looking at - most often the torque requirement is in the text.
Like Item # 7 on remove/replace for the harmonic balancer, in the text it says tighten to 160 ft-lbs.
Gaskets: we all have our different methods from trial & error. I have found to go with a LIGHT coating on stuff with either general blue or black silicone gasket sealer on ONE SIDE so that the gasket stays where I want it. Sealer on both sides is asking to have something squish out. And that's REALLY LIGHT, like a film - just enough for it to stick. Then wait 15 or 20 minutes for it to set up so the gasket does not move.
And that is for gaskets only on things EXTERNAL to the block/heads only (in cause you are reassembling the block) to prevent coolant and oil leaks.
Most of the longer water pump bolts go into engine water jacket, so they need to be coated on the end with silicone or they will leak. My building did not do that and I paid for it by dumping a lot of coolant on the garage floor. I think it was 4 bolts total I had to treat.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
