I bought either MOOG or TRW last year (can't remember) and replaced the original riveted ball joints. It took twice as long as I expected, but I found the originals were far more worn than I thought, and were ready to fail.

Raise and support securely, remove the wheel and rotor or drum, wrap the spindle with a rag. Hang the caliper securely if you have discs.

A two pound sledge and a ball joint fork served to loosen the taper, after applying PB Blaster and loosening the castle nut a couple of turns. Then the shaft will come free if you back the nut flush with the top of the stud and smack it to drive the stud out. Finish using the fork to lever it out after removing the nut. Then drill the rivets or grind the heads, staying exactly on center and perpendicular to the face, and the rest is easy. Hardest thing was drill the rivets. My compressor was down at the time so I couldn't grind them. The calipers also always seemed to be in the way.

I didn't use heat or one of the press-type removers, but if I hadn't gotten them broken loose in a reasonable time I'd have borrowed one of the press type removers. They work like a balancer puller.