I just did much of this myself. Keep in mind lengths will vary a fair amount based on engine size, year, A/C or no A/C, power vs. manual brakes, disc vs drum front brakes, whether you tank has a fuel return line or not, etc., etc etc...
Given these variables, my strong recommendation is to either use your old lines as templates, and measure them with a string to get your lengths.
Or, since originality does not seem to be priority for you, route a rope exactly where you want it to go, secure it with masking tape, etc, then pull it out and measure the length of the rope.
On the fuel side, I do recall that for my 400 I was able to use a normal stock 40" length with ends to get from pump to carb. Then I used another 40" piece to go from pump to middle of subframe. And then it took 110" to get from middle of subframe to tank (I purchased a 60" and a 50" and just spliced them together. I purchased all pre-made lines so I wouldn't have to mess with much flaring on the heavy-walled 3/8" lines, which can be hit or miss. On the ends where it goes flexible, I just cut the nut off the pre-made pieces so I had a nice factory double-flare already made for me to hold onto the fuel line. Since my car started life as a 350 car, my tank does not support a fuel return line, so I didn't have to worry about that. You might.
I do not recall my brake line length measurements, but I just bought raw material lines and ends and did my own double-flaring for everything. Diameter is so small it's very easy to work with.
I suggest for flexible fuel lines you utilize ethanol resistant fuel injection line instead of stock flexible rubber line sold at most parts stores. If you don't have ethanol yet, you will someday in the near future. It costs quite a bit more, but you only need a few feet of it to do the car and it lasts forever.
All told, I did 100% new brake and fuel lines from end to end from local auto parts store for about $80 out-of pocket and quite a bit of my time in labor, bending and fabricating.
