Your rear sway bar might actually be hurting your cornering. Might try disconnecting it and see if it improves things for you. Discussion on how/why rear sway bars are sometimes, but not always, a good idea on these cars: http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_spring_info.htm#antiroll

Your 1" drop in the front, without a corresponding drop in the rear, may also be a problem. These cars are already nose heavy...dropping the front an inch transfers yet more weight to the front. I freely admit to not being any suspension expert but my gut tells me it would make more sense to strive for frt/rear weight balance and flat front/rear ride height, if cornering is to take priority over a certain "look" or stance. Remember these cars came from the factory with a low rear/high front stance...they looked like a boat plowing down the road with nose in the air. So many people have forgotten this and seem to think their rear springs are sacked out when they might not be. But even looking at your photo, it is clear that your car is now set up the exact opposite of that (rear is higher than the front), so it would not surprise me that it might handle substantially different from how it did when first designed. Diving into a turn with a setup that is already leaning forward is just going to cause the nose to dive and the rear to rise even further...maybe far enough to lift a rear tire?

These are just random observations and things to consider. And I could be wrong. Trial & error are likely going to be the only way to confirm what works and what doesn't.

Incidentally, a tie-rod SLEEVE having play? I have a hard time envisioning that. It's very odd...and frankly extremely dangerous. Once toe is set on the alignment rack that thing should be clamped solid and tight to the tie rods/steering arms...it has no moving parts so there is nothing to wear. If it comes loose from the threads you simply lose your steering on that wheel entirely.