If you haven’t already, you must have a good schematic for the car (try Vikki’s site) at this point. If you are killing a battery in ~24 hours, it should be obvious (like an amp or greater) (not milliamps) unless you also have a battery issue. Once the fuse is pulled and the current draw drops, you will know that the problem is downstream of that particular fuse. More than likely the problem is with one of the devices on that circuit and not some random short along the wire run. The notable exception is where a wire gets pinched usually because of something you did. So if this problem occurred shortly after something you did, look in that area for a pinched wire. If it was me, I would leave the fuse pulled and connect your ammeter in series with a fuse for later reinstallation into that fuse slot. This will involve some jumpers but it will prevent you from damaging your wiring or ammeter. Then it is simply a matter of disconnecting the end device, installing the ammeter/fuse combo and seeing if the current goes away. If the current goes away, the problem is on that load device or the termination near that device, etc.

BTW, if you get done with all the loads on that circuit and haven’t found the problem, then pick your favorite four letter word of choice because the problem is in one of the wire runs. And that my friend is where locating the problem gets real ugly. Let’s hope we don’t get to that point.