I tried to post yesterday but wasn't able to. Anyways... A couple of things to consider: When I went to my tubular control arms I had to go back to the original mounting holes because they wouldn't mount up in the mod location. I'm also running offset shafts but I don't think that had a bearing on the mounting. The original "ears" of the frame might contact the underside of the UCA unless you cut them down or grind them off(glad I didn't because I would've been screwed). You can run a taller BJ on top and it is effectively the same thing as doing the mod by changing the basic geometry. They tell me you can't do both(taller BJ and Gmod). It would be too extreme. You get nothing from changing to tubular LCAs except better looks and possibly shaving 3lbs. The stock ones work as well with better bushings. I liked the SPC UCAs as well for there infinite adjustability but then really how much are you going to change it once you get the settings you like. I went with a traditional tubular UCA from Pro-Touring F-Body.com. He makes them in his own shop in ILL. I liked the fact that I could buy direct from the builder. I figure he will always stand behind the product he makes. Just in case there is a problem I don't have to be able to speak chinese. Probably 4years now and no issues. Nice pieces. If you want a carver, tires will be where the major difference will be. Doesn't matter too much how good your suspension is if you rubber isn't up to the task. My .02