This is the 2nd time I have used the vinyl dye process, the first many years ago on a 1980 Trans Am. That time it was dark blue over black parts, but I will give you my feedback:
Having to dye parts the correct color is inevitable. Lots of the reproduction interior parts only come in black. That being said, if a new part comes in the correct color, jump on it. My reasoning: The vinyl dye process works better on fabrics and "soft surfaces" than plastics. The fabrics "absorb" the color while, let's face it, you are really painting the plastic pieces. So the question is how well is that paint layer going to hold up against wear and tear. In the T/A, the seat backs and side 1/4 covers (hard plastic) held up pretty well, but then I rarely had anybody in the back seat. The soft recovered dash pad from Just Dashes (that I dyed to save $$$) held up really well. But remember here we are talking a dark color over black. I won't know how well these freshly painted parchment pieces for my FGF are going to hold up. Especially since this process involved a couple of coats of the off white dye first due to the "pearl" nature of both the '67 & '68 Firebird parchment colors. We all know the thicker the paint, the easier it chips.
Vinyl dye dries very, very, quickly and is not tacky afterwards. It almost dries too quickly so you need to have the part much closer to the nozzle than using paint and it really does not like being sprayed in higher air temps - more more so than paint.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI