Or, if you want just a bit more compression, you could find some #64 heads. Some will recommend the '72-'75cc big valve heads. If you use those, I'd go with dish pistons to reduce compression. There's no use pushing the limits of compression, for just a little more power. IMO
But, if your budget will stand it, I'd go with 72 or 74cc alum D-port heads. 10.5:1 CR is OK with alum heads. If you'll be doing a lot of cold weather driving, I'd go with the Edelbrock D-ports. If not, I go with KRE D-ports. If you decide on the E-heads, I'd have 'em set up by Butler, with better parts than the box stock from Edelbrock versions.
May as well buy a new oil pump driveshaft. That reminds me. Summit will usually meet or beat any legitimate advertised price on any item they sell. Jegs also has a price match guarantee, for legitimate shipped prices. Many times, either Amazon or Ebay will have the best prices on some parts. So, if you need to save a few bucks, it might be worth searching for the best online price, then seeing if Summit or Jegs will match 'em. That way you can probably buy most of your parts from one place.
You'll need a timing set. You can go with a cheap stock type set, a double solid roller, or a true roller with 9 key slots, for precise cam degreeing. I used the cheap sets in most of the engines I built, then used a Mr. Gasket advance key to advance the cam slightly, to make up for chain stretch, which occurs quickly, with most any type of chain.
If you go with at least 9:1 CR, you can use a different cam. Probably something with around 220 @ .050 intake duration, would make a good street cam. I wouldn't go any smaller than a Summit 2801.
