"As reference on any vehicle I have that doesn't have a coolant overflow tank I do a simple calculation to provide the appropriate air compensation to prevent overflow dV(volume change)= V(volume of coolant system) B(volumetric temperature expansion coefficient)((T1(final temp)-T0(initial temp). So for this application dv= .016088M^3*.00057(104C-21C)=.0007m^3 or 26 ounces. So in this case with engine off I filled the system complete to the top of the rad then opened the petcock at the bottom of the rad and pulled off a little less than a quart, made a mark on the rad to note the proper level for the system once burped, started the engine and this is when I noticed the issue with the fluctuating."
...or...fill up the radiator, let engine run with cap off. Once thermostat opens add coolant until level is just below filler neck. Monitor temperature as engine continues to run with cap off to burp system, also monitoring coolant level. Shouldn't take more than about 20 minutes. Replace cap.
Your engine is operating at a perfect temp. Why overthink it?
X2!! Keep it simple- I agree with all the advice that folks have provided. If you have new hoses, they will obviously be stiffer than older ones, and if you are overwhelmed with curiosity, just pull both hoses off and look through them to see if you have any springs or other support in them making them so stiff.
But like Bronze Bird says- if it is at the right temp- dont worry so much. Just verify the integrity of the hoses, connections and that the juice is flowing when running.
Cant wait for summer... 68HO4004spvert Sleddog Iowa
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