Here is my plan regarding the issues:
I’ll clean the underside of the engine and auto and put crayon powder on, drive the car and hopefully better see where the leaks originate .. or at least to better near the “leaking issue” down. Compile a parts list based thereupon.
After finding out (or wishful thinking based on some hard to come by information) that the factory only used 8 exhaust bolts despite 12 holes in the exhaust manifolds and heads the driver side should be fine - the spacer are still on the outer most bolts. The passenger side one is to be replaced due to the crack. 6bolts are present (no correct spacers used) - at least two welds from previous cracks are on it - so it was removed at least once. If all bolts can be removed- great. If the outer ones break - well, only 4 were used by the factory - justification to not remove the engine purely due to that. I have started to apply Liquid Wrench (ATF + Aceton would damage surrounding rubber and other non-metallic parts). Before trying to remove the bolts my induction heater will be used on the bolt heads and the respective spots of the engine where the bolts go in. If one or more bolts break, the engine must come out. Then the leaking issue can be addressed also. If all goes well with the bolts I will try to address the leaking issue with the engine remaining in the car only lifted so much to remove the oil pan to subsequently replace oil pan gasket and rear main seal, which I presume to be the culprits. I know it is tough to do it with engine not removed but I will give it a try using a ramp to bring the car up approx. 25” to work under it lying. According to Bop Engineering only the rear main bearing cap has to be removed to reinstall the 2 part seal. From what I have read the 350 engine is not so prone to the out-of- alignment groove issue.
If I fail I’ll see ... my mechanic has a closed trailer to pick the car up :-)


Olli