Poch, I have a power top on my ’69. When I purchased it, the top had to be operated manually. One of the PO’s left the pumps bung out, and it wasn’t mounted at all. Needless to say I had to fix a few things to get the system working. I found a temporary bung from the hardware store, and bought the rubber mounting grommets From NPD. Once I got the pump filled, I found one of the lift cylinders had a leak. So I replaced it with one from NPD. Long story short, I had to send back two of these to NPD. The bottom hose connection would leak due to a different fitting. The lift cylinders from NPD have an O ring. The factory lift cylinders have a flair fitting, and so do the hoses. I finally bought the correct lift cylinder from Ames. It’s wonderful when the power top works as it should! After I got everything in working order, the frigin pumps body seal started leaking. I’m tired of trying to repair the darn 37 year old thing, so it will get replaced. Depending what you need to restore the power top, it can get expensive. $200 - $250 for a pump, and $150 for the correct lift cylinders from Ames. Your old hoses should be ok, mine were. But if you have a pin hole, or the hose is kinked a replacement kit is $100+. How is the rest of your top; bushings, cables, pads, cover, window and seals? Think about these things before getting the power portion of the top working. To convert to a manual top you will need to replace the lift cylinders with the spring set. You will also need the hold down clips. I haven’t priced these items. It may turn out to be just as expensive. I guess the decision depends on if you want to push a button to put the top up and down.
