That's a good point, the entry level price. I've bought really good driveable non-correct cars for what a rough project matching car would cost. And I've spent more for cars I really wanted. And I've bought cars that are little more than a shell with docs and turned them back into cars.

If you're planning a full stock restoration, find the best sheet metal and the matching numbers and factory options you want. If you have to wait longer to save more, it's worth it. As seen on a recent post, a "little" quarter panel rust can go a long, long way and replacement steel just isn't the same. And yes, four speeds command a higher price on performance cars, even if automatics were the more expensive option when new.

There are cars at every price point. The trick is to find the best one at a given price point, if you want the best value. By doing so, you may spend a long time looking especially if you have certain "must-have" specs on your list.

Then again, the perfect car might appear out of the blue. So it's important to know what your actual budget is, and to have the money ready to buy at a day's notice.

Ponchoshop, that's a good way to sell at your price. Take your car to the park, to drive-ins, to cruise-ins. When someone starts asking questions, invariably one that comes up is "How much does a car like that cost?" Here's where you list your asking price. And when the response is "Wow, that's not as bad as I thought" then continue the conversation...because you have someone who has thought about buying a classic car. Casually mention that you've thought about selling it, and hopefully you have a good reason because there is a natural suspicion against cars that look good being sold. If it's so great, why is it for sale?