I finally have the engine in my 1969 bird up and running. The car was originally 350 with a two barrel and is now 428 with tri-power. My gas pedal does not open the carbs completely. It's as if there is not enough travel in the pedal to fully engage the tripower carb linkage and also open the primary all the way. I can adjust the secondary linkage to open at full pedal depression, but it still won't open the primary all the way. I have adjusted the cable to have the carb fully closed with the pedal bar (where the cable attaches) up against the firewall. Is there a different pedal, or can I bend the bar on the pedal to make it sit higher so that there is more travel before it hits the floor or is there something else I'm missing? Thanks for any input.
Seems to me that what you could probably do is disconnect the pedal from the linkages, then measure the travel distance the linkages move from full height to fully depressed. Then measure the travel distance of your carb thats necessary to get it fully open...and then compare the two. If the pedal distance won't cover the full carb travel distance needed, then I would think a different rod length/linkage setup would be in order. I wouldn't bend the pedal for safety reasons, but replacing it might be alright, provided it doesn't create an uneven or crooked top to bottom push.
Not sure if that helps at all...just brainstorming, and its early yet, so the brains still in sleep mode...
Sounds like you may need to change where the cable attaches to the throttle arm of the primary carb. Without seeing it I can't say but likely all that is needed is to move the attachment point closer to the pivot. It may require another hole to be drilled in the throttle arm.
The stock throttle pedal travel should be enough to properly operate the throttle if the geometry is correct.
Thanks guys. It's an automatic, 200r4, so no detent cable like the 350. The total throttle travel is about 1 1/2", the same as the four barrel setup I had. Maybe moving the pivot point might work, but looking at the pedal it seems as if the cable only pulls about an inch, so I'm thinking of either bending the pedal off the floor, or moving the arm that holds the cable either at a steeper angle or re-welding it down the shaft about an inch.
Make sure your pedal bracket is NOT CRACKED! I had this problem when I bought my car, and the secondary's didn't open. I just thought is was a very weak engine. Then when I saw the crack and replaced the bracket (it's plastic) WOW what a difference. The car get's up and goes quickly now that it is fixed. The bracket would flex and bottom out on the floor before the fix.
I'm getting excited Tom. I can actually drive it in and out of the garage. Fist time it's moved under it's own power since 1980!! from what I've found out. Now to put on the fenders (that's my next post) and work out the bugs, like overheating and hooking up the power steering.
