how does the ignition key cylinder come out? i followed instructions posted by Vikki last year that i printed out.my key cylinder has never been changed as i had to remove the casting over the slot,do all you have to do is depress the tap inside the slot with the key turned in run and pull? or does the two brass contacts shown in pic beside the slot have to come out too ?,if so how does it come out?.asking because they seem to me to be moving with the cylinder as i wiggle it.Vikki posted the instuctions direct from the pontiac service manual.would be nice if all my locks used the same key.thanks
The brass contacts don't need to be removed. I used a 6" ruler to slide in the slot on my 69 and it came out on my first try. I used the instructions in the shop manual. Good luck.
i didn't think so,but thought i would ask before i broke something.maybe i'm not getting the tab to depress .how easy should the cylinder pull out with the tab depressed?
The one on mine was tough to get out. Seems like the tab didn't want to depress all the way to relase the cylinder. It's been some time but I may have used a small screwdriver (or putty knife) to pry JUST A LITTLE under the edge of the lock cylinder (against the column housing) to help get it out.
The contacts I believe are for the "key in" buzzer. If I remember right you have to push it to one side a little and then they should just pull out as a unit. Like I said, it's been a while though. Anyone else remember?
Last edited by Mushroombert; 01/20/0804:06 PM.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
Mine came out pretty easy once I was in the right slot (it's the deeper one on the right, just below those brass contacts). I used a small screwdriver to push in the spring loaded keeper and just pulled on the cylinder.
i'm using the right slot as i had to remove the casting covering it,i also tried using a screwdriver to slightly pry between the cylinder lock and steering column.will try again tomorrow if i get some spare time,pretty cold out in the garage too now .
Harry, I had trouble with mine at first. Mine was tough getting it out of the column once the tab was depressed. I had to help it out with a screw driver prying between the column and lock cylinder.
it's hard to tell if the tab is depressed,not much room in the slot too see anything with a screwdriver shoved in it.i can see the tab that has to be depressed when the screwdriver is out.maybe i have to try something smaller.
Using a standard 1/4" screw driver might be the problem. The driver has a taper that might keep the tip getting to the tab. Try using an 1/8" small driver.
Could someone post a link to Vikki's instructions from last year? I was going to replace my cylinder very soon, and all info is appreciated.
I've always been able to remove my key while the engine is running, and I know it's the cylinder, but I never got around to replacing it. But just this year, I began getting the dreaded "buzzer" sound even when the key is OUT of the ignition. You have to wiggle the cylinder a little to get it to stop.
Incidentally, you have no idea how many people, unfamiliar with the old GM cars or have never ridden in one, freak out when they hear that buzzer! many of the "yung uns" never heard that classic 70's GM buzzer before. I simply tell them that's the way they used to build cars, before the days of keyless entry and electronic chimes.
'69: Remove steering wheel. Pull turn signal switch up far enough to allow access to lock cylinder spring latch slot. Remove lock cylinder in RUN position by inserting a thin tool into the slot next to the switch mounting screw boss (right hand slot) and depress spring latch at bottom of slot, which releases lock and remove lock by pulling out of housing. Note: if lock cylinder has never been removed before, the slot will be covered by casting flash which can be broken with the removal tool.
Installation: Hold lock cylinder sleeve and rotate knob clockwise against stop when viewed from key end. Insert cylinder into housing bore with key on lock cylinder sleeve aligned to keyway in housing. Push into abutment of cylinder and lock sector. Rotate lock knob counterclockwise. Maintaining a light push inward on lock sector until drive section of lock cylinder mates with sector. Push in until spring latch pops into groove and lock cylinder is secured into housing. Check freedom of cylinder in housing. There must be a free spring return from start to run.
Install turn signal switch. Install steering wheel.
well i tried useing a small allen wrench to depress the tab and a flat screwdriver to slightly pry between the cylinder collar and the steering column.didn't work,and know i don't half to worry about the prying part as the cylinder collar broke off! now i have nothing to pull on.is it possible to drill the guts out of the cylinder?
just curious Jim why did you have the locksmith do yours? did you try yours and run into trouble?.not saying it's a bad idea and i know a locksmith who is an old friend from school,but what do you think of the drilling idea?
I had my column out while I had the 69 all apart and on a rotisserie. There's a great locksmith in my area and I know a few guys that work there. I figured I might as well go for the $25 lesson by a pro. My column was perfect so I wanted it done right. If there was no other option I would drill it....
Just like those instructions. I was watching and he made it look easy. And we got to BSing about cars and local events.... I think I would pay again if it came down to it... They came out and did my 86 plow truck ig last year too. My AAA insurance paid for that one.
It didn't seem tricky at all. One thing that's important though, if the switch has been abused or tampered with it may be very hard to remove the normal way....
It's probabaly like one of those things where it seems very easy if you've done it before, but you know, I can take a Q-jet apart and reassemble it in my sleep (I think I actually did that once ), but to those that have never even changed a secondary rod hangar, taking apart a Q-jet seems like a menacing task.
I'm sure the ignition switch will be more straightforward once I see it in front of me, and I follow the ol' Pontiac Service Manual.
the instructions are very straightforward ,but there must be some reason they not working for me.anyone else had this problem and what method did you use to get the cylinder out?
I had a problem just figuring out where to press, but once I did, everything was fairly easy. You only have to depress about a 16th of an inch. Wiggle the cylinder as you press and see if it works out just a bit, then you should be able to pull or pry it out the rest of the way with out having to press the keeper anymore. It just has to unhook.
how would one go about removeing the ignition cylinder if you don't have a key? i have the key but since the cylinder collar is broke off there is nothing to pull on.
Could someone post a link to Vikki's instructions from last year? I was going to replace my cylinder very soon, and all info is appreciated.
I've always been able to remove my key while the engine is running, and I know it's the cylinder, but I never got around to replacing it. But just this year, I began getting the dreaded "buzzer" sound even when the key is OUT of the ignition. You have to wiggle the cylinder a little to get it to stop.
Incidentally, you have no idea how many people, unfamiliar with the old GM cars or have never ridden in one, freak out when they hear that buzzer! many of the "yung uns" never heard that classic 70's GM buzzer before. I simply tell them that's the way they used to build cars, before the days of keyless entry and electronic chimes.
Some kids don't know what window cranks are. They find them fun to play with watching the glass move with human power.
Could someone post a link to Vikki's instructions from last year? I was going to replace my cylinder very soon, and all info is appreciated.
I've always been able to remove my key while the engine is running, and I know it's the cylinder, but I never got around to replacing it. But just this year, I began getting the dreaded "buzzer" sound even when the key is OUT of the ignition. You have to wiggle the cylinder a little to get it to stop.
Incidentally, you have no idea how many people, unfamiliar with the old GM cars or have never ridden in one, freak out when they hear that buzzer! many of the "yung uns" never heard that classic 70's GM buzzer before. I simply tell them that's the way they used to build cars, before the days of keyless entry and electronic chimes.
Some kids don't know what window cranks are. They find them fun to play with watching the glass move with human power.
thats funny...when my now 33 yr old son was 7 or 8 he wanted to play with the buttons on the elctric windows ,see then=m go up and down...he grew up with crank windows in my car...and when I got a car w elctric ones , I thought he was going to wear them out!
update,ignition cylinder is out and new one installed.turns out there is a smaller slot beside the one i tried.pushed the tab in and out it came.this slot was beside the one that had the thin casting over it.Thanks for the help.
Maybe you should cut your losses and spring for the big $35 at the locksmith? Mine let me watch.
$35? Makes me wonder whether or not we live on different planets, let alone the in the same country. It cost about a buck-twenty five around here. I spent a little time doing some commercial door repair, including lockwork. Forget fixing anything; it would cost you $160 for me to step out of the truck.
Maybe you should cut your losses and spring for the big $35 at the locksmith? Mine let me watch.
$35? Makes me wonder whether or not we live on different planets, let alone the in the same country. It cost about a buck-twenty five around here. I spent a little time doing some commercial door repair, including lockwork. Forget fixing anything; it would cost you $160 for me to step out of the truck.
$125! That's crazy! Even when they billed my insurance company(on my truck) it was only $55. AAA has the nation wide average at $55. Glad I don't live in a closed area where you get raped by high prices everywhere you go....
now i have nothing to pull on.is it possible to drill the guts out of the cylinder?
They came out and did my 86 plow truck ig last year too. My AAA insurance paid for that one.
), but to those that have never even changed a secondary rod hangar, taking apart a Q-jet seems like a menacing task. 
