time to break my silence I guess. I have been a FGF forum "lurker" for a couple of years now. I have my dream car white 68 coupe w red int that is getting close to drivable. Came across a good deal on MBM brakes 4 wheel disk kit this week that I am thinking of getting to convert my 4 wheel drums. have been researching drop spindles as I would like to drop the front end a bit. kit comes with standard or 2"drop spindles for same price. Interested to hear what you folks think of them. vs cutting coils. also wondering if anyone has comments/experience about MBM brake kits? planning on 17x8 torq thrust M's with 4.5" BS all around. Opinions? Thxs.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
that is not the first time I have read that. There are so many companies making or selling drop spindles for 1st gen's I thought maybe they were better now. but maybe not. So if I want to drop the front end a bit, I can just cut a coil or so off? Has anybody out there ever tried drop spindles? They often sell them advertised as being better for front end "geometry"? But if the word is don't do it, I won't. thxs for the reply. I will check out the team camaro link.
I just read the Link and that pretty much answers my question on drop spindles. sounds like the common consensus.. they suck. I will go with the regular spindles. What about MBM brake kits? Anybody have any opinions on them? I am looking at them because the price is right.
Don´t cut your coils! Buy the Hotchkis coils, they lower the front 2". Be careful concerning the front sway bar end links; I had to turn mine around because they were pinching the outer part of my regular disc spindels. Of course you also could cut off the overlapping screw thread but turning them around was easier...
(BTW - this is the car on a lifting platform, the wheels are relaxed, that´s why the balljoints look so aslope... Nevertheless, the distance between the end links and the spindles doesn´t change considerably when loaded again)
thanks for the information and pics Thomas. I will definately look into the hotchkiss replacement coils. I have read lots of good things about most hotchkiss components. Kelly
Don´t cut your coils! Buy the Hotchkis coils, they lower the front 2". Be careful concerning the front sway bar end links; I had to turn mine around because they were pinching the outer part of my regular disc spindels. Of course you also could cut off the overlapping screw thread but turning them around was easier...
(BTW - this is the car on a lifting platform, the wheels are relaxed, that´s why the balljoints look so aslope... Nevertheless, the distance between the end links and the spindles doesn´t change considerably when loaded again)
do you think that´s a good idea? The front coils dropped the car 2" so the spacer should be shortened 2", too?
I didn´t have the impression they had to be shortened because the sway bar still looked fine to me...
Thanks for looking...
Concerning to the below mentioned info the stabilizer bar end eyelethave to be parallel with the control arm. Will have to check it again on my own car...
It looks close in the picture. My 69 with original equipment has the same long spacer as in the picture. My 67 with the fat aftermarket sway bar has a short spacer. The 69 stabilizer goes uphill towards the wheel where as the 67 is parallel like you mention.
That makes sense. The two cars, one with the sway bar pointing up and the other with it parallel, both handle great. I can slide them both around corners without the tires digging in and tipping. Nothing like a four wheel drift around a corner!
