I've had this problem since the day I bought this car 22 years ago. Solenoid heats up and the car will not start for about 2 hours. I've replaced the starter once, and the solenoid 3 or 4 times. I have a heat shield on the soloenoid, I thought that fixed it for a while, but the solenoid only seems to last a couple years, then needs replacement.

I know there are others that have this problem. I have read a little on Remote Solenoids installed up by the front of the car to keep them cool.
If the Solenoid was easier to replace it wouldnt be so bad.

Any new tips on fixes for this?
Is there a Heavy Duty Solenoid someone could point me to?
Anyone try this remote located Solenoid?

This problem happened 3 times just last week, all I need is to get stuck in traffic for about 10 minutes, car heats up, and that's it. Simply wait 2 hours and it will start. Turning the key does nothing during this time. I have parked on hills in emergencies to jump it, it's easy to do with my car, dont like to do it though.

Thanks
Hef

Used to have the same problem as I'm sure most people here have.
I installed 1 gauge cables along with a GM high torque starter, which honestly may or may not have helped, but since the cable install haven't had a problem since. I just replaced my 10 year old Delco battery as well with an Optima group 34 with 1000 CCAs, that starter spins like theres no tomorrow!

I had this problem back in the '80's with my first Firebird. I went through three or four solenoids in a month. I had been purchasing them from my 'local' auto parts store. I finally bought one from a GM dealer, and presto --- worked for years until I sold the car.

I went back to the 'local' store and watched their eyes glaze over as I described what happened. They wouldn't do a thing, so I never bought anything from them again. (must have been cheap import crap) The thing is that they all looked IDENTICAL, even the GM one. (other than the GM box) So I don't know if I got lucky, or there was something to it.

I have the same problem. I saw that Year One sells a High Torque starter, a heavy duty solenoid, and a starter heat shield. The part descriptions all claim to cure this problem, but I haven't ordered them yet.

Yesterday was a scorcher here and my car had no problem with hot starts utilizing an older stock starter and solonoid. I agree with the above statement that new cables and the heat shield are the biggest resolver for those issues.

I installed a No. 2 gauge positive cable(largest I could find).

It hasn't left me, yet.

Cool, 5 replies in an hour. Gotta love it.
Not sure if the Heavy Duty Starter or Heat Shield really did any good. I think the Heavy duty Solenoid did help.
What I'm reading here is that the heavy duty positive cable might help, but I would bet that a good Solenoid along with it is the main thing. When you take them apart you can see the burn on them.

I'm going to start looking for that heavy guage cable.

Thanks
Hef

I got mine from a carquest dealer, years ago though. The cable is branded Ektron, made by Standard ignition. Hope this helps.

Is it possible/easy to change out the solenoid without removing the whole starter?????

No, I dont think so, the starter is really not that hard to do, just keep an eye on any shims that you have in there, and keep in mind....it's heavy:)

Just found #1 Cable at NAPA. about $50.

i used a remote solenoid back in the 80's on my first firebird(a '68). worked like a charm. it was a ford solenoid, pretty easy hook up. there has to be direction on line some where. nice thing with that was you could jump 2 terminals with a screwdriver to bump the motor over.
good luck

I bought a Bosch starter, new not rebuilt replacement unit, and it's worked great on my 400 for the past several years. That, and replacing the battery cable, which looked great but had corrosion inside the jacket.

You can use a Ford solenoid which you can mount to the core support or buy a replacement spring from GM which cored my hot start issues.

I may still have a new spare in the garage. PM me if interested.

Just did a bunch of searching and the amount of info out there seems endless. This Remote Solenoid things seems like the ticket.
Ford solenoids have an extra terminal I think, also something with the grounding. The wiring seems simple enough. It adds benefits like an easy place to add hot connections very easily, also you can install a mechanic starter switch in the engine compartment easily, for working on timing and valve issues.
I will keep looking and post any good info I find.

Hef

This looks like good info. Summit Racing sells a kit. $25.

Link to Summit Part
Link to Installation Instructions

This is a commonly posted picture, if it wasnt correct it wouldnt get posted so often. A way to save a few bucks by just getting a Ford Solenoid. I'm going to order the kit direct from Summit.

Ford Solenoid Installation Thread

Thanks Hef,

I'll put my order in for one today

I just went and picked up - ACDelco F903

Got mine at Advanced Auto Parts, paid more for it, but it's an ACDelco as opposed to a Ford part.

I need to do this as well, once and for all. You all know the troubles I've had over the years. Have never truly been "stuck" somewhere, but many times she has to think about it for a few seconds before turning over on a hot summer day. Always makes me nervous.

Had the same problem on my 1st FB in 75 after installing hedders.
Went thru 3 in 1 month.
If you want easy hot starting and theft deterent all in one, run a 8 or 10 gauge wire from the battery to a HD toggle switch, then down to the solenoid.
Install switch within easy reach, but out of sight.
While turning engine over with the key, flip the toggle to the starter.
Be sure to turn it off after engine fires.

Just finished installing my remote solenoid. Did a nice job with all the wiring, came out very nice and neat.
I mounted the solenoid in the front left, under the regulator, next to the radiator. Original batter cable went goes under the radiator and up to the Solenoid. Bought new 10 Guage wire to run from the firewall wires, to the new solenoid, neatly tied off to an existing cable going to the front.
I had removed the starter earlier. I made up a 3" long 10 gauge wire, put an eylet on one end, and stripped about 1" of insualtion off of the other end. The eyelet goes to the "S" terminal of the solenoid, and the stripped wire went around the Larger Battery terminal of the solenoid.
I bought a 49" long 4 gauge batter cable with large eyelets on both ends. One end went to the battery connector off the new remote solenoid, and the other end I neatly tied off and it goes down to the original solenoid. I carefully tightened that end along with the stripped piece of 10 gauge wire. Then had the fun chore of mounting up the starter. Not a fun job. Took about 4 full hours of fighting, but finally got it done this morning.

Car fired up without a hitch. Ran it around a lot today, got it all good and hot, still starts. I'm still not totally convinced, but in theory this should work. More Hot driving testing to do, it fails me, I will report back.

All, this is a simple easy to do fix, removing the starter is easily the hardest part to the job, or should I say, remounting it is the hardest.

Thanks for all tips -

Hef.

I've not had any issues since installing a stock starter from AutoZone ($29.99) three years ago! Also installed a stock heat shield and new snap ring cables from Ames all at the same time, three years ago! Are the follks with hot starts all using aftermarket headers?

No, Lots of us with stock exhaust have had hot start problems. I replace my starter with a heavy duty starter and heavy duty solenoid and enjoyed years of no problems. Replaced the solenoid many times...the problems always came back after a while.
Just get stuck one time and depending on where it happens...stalling in traffic somewhere, or simply stopping for gas and cant restart, it's a real problem.

You can possibly run forever with your setup, I got tired of my problems, and hopefully have fixed them.

Before you did this conversion, did you replace the positive battery cable and see if that solved your issue?

No I did not replace the cable. I had done that a bunch of years ago, but it is only a 4 Gauge Cable.
Everything I read, and there is a ton of of it up there, said that it can be any one of the wires from the ignition (smaller wires) or the larger battery cable, that gets "squeezed" from the heat.
This remote solenoid is a proven fix, widely used in the racing industry to battle high heat.
Solenoid $25. Cables, wire, eylets, about $10. Took about 2 hours of actually work, of course I looked at it for about a month first. Remounting the starter took another 2 hours, it should not take that long though.