I am trying to figure out what works on my car and what doesn't. I am chasing electrical issues at the same time. I need a picture of a fuse panel that is taken from a 69 Firebird that is fully configured and operational.When I received this car it had about half the fuses removed.
Also, how can you tell if you have "Ralley Gauges"? What is the other option if any? I see these referred to often as if there might be something else. I need to know what I have.
Can't help you out with the fuse panel photo but as for Rally Gauges the difference being your dash will either have lights that come on ie: low oil pressure, a temp light etc. opposed to a gauge that gives you a reading ie: actual oil pressure in lbs., temp gauge that shows the actual temp of the engine 100* to 250* etc. Rally gauges are much more desirable than "idiot lights" as they are often called as you can monitor your engine and react before something goes wrong rather than after the fact...
For a '69 there are two kinds of "Rally Gauges". One set is installed in the clock location and accompanied by a tach in the left gauge pod. The other occupies the left gauge pod and may be accompanied by a hood tach.
As far as a fuse panel photo, what are you trying to achieve? Any accessory feeds that may come off the fuse box are options and can be left off for troubleshooting. These include power windows, power convertible top, power seat, and the all-too-common owner hacks. Troubleshoot the main circuits first.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
I guess I have a bunch of questions. I have only wired a VW Karmann Ghia up before so I have limited knowledge of a 69 Firebird.
I have the Black and White Diagram from Yearone. Is there a good manual, book or reference for this? I don't care for it much. For one reason, it doesn't even reference the power top stuff Also, some lines don't reference a color. My VW stuff would show how to test the motors, switches and relays. I really need a book that can help with this.
I have a bunch of issues when I got this car. 1.Wipers don't work but switch gets power. 2.Power top isn't powered and wire just ends short of the fuse panel. 3.Heater blower disconnected and now connected but blower doesn't go on. 4.Dash lights do not work at all and don't get power. I suspect a ground somewhere. The guy put an after market stereo in and I think I read somewhere that there is a ground for these lights around the radio but it must be cut out. 5. No horn but power to the relay. 6. And more not listed.
Anyway if someone can give me a place to start I would appreciate it. It is a little overwhelming but I know I can do it with a little direction but more importantly a good manual that helps with testing some of the motors and things. BTW, I have removed the dash and have complete access.
Lastly, it is driving me crazy. Where does the power top get its power from?
Feel free to browse around. Accessory info can be found in the electrical and accessories sections of the service manual and Fisher Body manuals as well.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
I appreciate your offer. I will check that site out.
I already have the Service Manual and Fisher Body Manuals. I have yet to find where the convertible top gets it's power from? Location of the fuse? Also how to test the components.
Having rewired two first gen Mustangs and now a first gen Firebird, I can safely say that you may want to carefully consider wether your current wiring is fixable or should be completely replaced.
If you're finding a lot of broken, cut, brittle wires, you'll probably save yourself a lot of headaches by simply replacing the whole section. Its not as bad as it seems. If you have a new wiring section, and mark the old one to the new one on where it all goes, its simply gutting and replacing. The key is marking with masking tape where things go, and taking lots of pics too.
If your wires are plyable, flexible, and aren't all cut up, then as previously mentioned, you go one circuit at a time.
The first place to start with is probably the grounding. Many problems are directly traced to improper grounding. Check if your fuse block is good, (getting power), check fuses, check power from fuseblock to dash area, check dash bulbs, make sure dash circuitry is properly ground, and if not...create your own grounding of that metal strip, etc. Sometimes simple wire brush cleaning on contacts can make a big difference as well.
But one section at a time. As for each component, (heater, cigarette ligher, radio, horn, etc.), you'll have to go one by one, trail and error. You maybe getting power to the unit, and the unit might be bad.
Having rewired two first gen Mustangs and now a first gen Firebird, I can safely say that you may want to carefully consider wether your current wiring is fixable or should be completely replaced.
If you're finding a lot of broken, cut, brittle wires, you'll probably save yourself a lot of headaches by simply replacing the whole section. Its not as bad as it seems. If you have a new wiring section, and mark the old one to the new one on where it all goes, its simply gutting and replacing. The key is marking with masking tape where things go, and taking lots of pics too.
If your wires are plyable, flexible, and aren't all cut up, then as previously mentioned, you go one circuit at a time.
The first place to start with is probably the grounding. Many problems are directly traced to improper grounding. Check if your fuse block is good, (getting power), check fuses, check power from fuseblock to dash area, check dash bulbs, make sure dash circuitry is properly ground, and if not...create your own grounding of that metal strip, etc. Sometimes simple wire brush cleaning on contacts can make a big difference as well.
But one section at a time. As for each component, (heater, cigarette ligher, radio, horn, etc.), you'll have to go one by one, trail and error. You maybe getting power to the unit, and the unit might be bad.
Great advice. The roughly $1000 investment for all new wiring harnesses which are really nice exact reproductions of the orginals is cheap insurance vs watching the car you spent so much time and effort burn to the ground.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
No fuse for the top. The breaker is fed from the fuse box tap. It's one of the plugs that is on the face of the fuse box.
The relay is behind the driver side kick panel.
Does anyone happen to have pictures of these two things? My wires currently run from the motor to the switch and then from the switch they just stop. There is an orange connector on the end of the black wire that looks like it plugs into a specific piece or breaker.
I will go through the wiring again and then figure out which harnesses need replaced. I will definitely be getting an engine harness but the dash harness I really need to look at. I am pulling my steering wheel this morning so I can have a little more room to work. I need a turn signal switch anyway to I might as well do this first.
Picture of a Wiring Diagram of the fuse panel. I circled the question. This kind of stuff frustrates me to no end. I finally find a diagram I need and the thing I am looking for has no arrow or line. What's up with that?
Below I circled the two plugs (in purple) that are wired in series together. I am guessing but I assume one connection goes to the relay and the other goes to what Yellowbird referred to as the breaker that connects to the fuse box. Is this right? Also, I haven't been able to find any place with these two items in their catalogs and I can't even find a part number.
Lastly, anyone know what the other connector is for (circled in blue)? The other end goes in behind the fusebox.
....hmmm...my memory might be off...(its been two years since I had my '69 rewired and I dont have any of my pics/books in front of me), but I thought the orange wire might be related to the courtesy light (maybe the plunger or bulb socket area)?...and the purple wire might have been power to the vert top?.. You can verify the vert power wire by pulling the back seat and looking at the motor to the top, it should run along the drivers side under the rocker guard/sill area to the dash.
In looking at your pic, my bigger question would be, how many other wires are spliced like that? The more spices, odd connections and places where the wires change color, the greater the concern for shorts.
BTW, the wires are good, no cracking or anything. I think the dash harness can be made to work. I am slowly but surely learning more and more about this thing. My biggest question today is how many small dash lights are there with the bulb sockets? This wire was hacked a bit but should be salvageable.
Did you happen to get the part Number or any name on that breaker? I can't really make it out on the picture.
My harness matches up well to the 69 Camaro's I saw on that website but that breaker doesn't look anything like the one for that car. I would probably also need the harness that I showed in the link.
So I am guessing that I just plug my power wire into that adjacent slot by the breaker and I should be good to go. I assume I need the relay though.
The previous owner couldn't get the top down and ended up cutting the lines and draining the fluid and put it up/down manually. I wish he would have checked on the electrical side of things first.
You may already have that wire in place, that fat orange one in your photo with the female spade connector housing. Trace it back and see once you have the kick off.
The fuse box breaker is a little harder to find, it's a 12V 40 amp self resetting breaker with plug in adapters for the fuse holders. Manual reset breakers are easier to find, but a bit of a pain if you ever have to reach under the dash to reset it. Check around with local electrical supply houses and auto electrical repair shops, they may be able to source one for you.
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