My 11-year-old radiator is leaking. Although it is a small leak at this point, I suspect it is in the core because there is some green discoloration on it.

Anyone find a really good original-look repro 4-row '68 with the original shape, shroud clip use, etc?

maybe just buy an aluminum and paint it OEM color?

Hey Jim, don't know what they charge out in Ill, but 60 bucks here to rod out and repair includes the nice black paint

I had mine re-done like Jeff said and It's been great!

OK. Thanks. I'll remove it this weekend and take it to a repair shop Monday.

I suppose I assumed repairs are not common anymore. There were two repair shops in the area that had been in business for many years that I had gone to in the distant past and they are now gone. A combined search of the internet and yellow pages uncovered one within 10 miles that has good reviews.

All radiator shops here in central ohio don't boil out them anymore or recore them. I ran into that problem last summer. I wanted to repair mine and was told no one could. I did find a place in arizona who could do it. If you were to get the leak fixed I personally would want it boiled out before because that small leak might be a sign your tubes could be rotted out on the inside. I opted for a shiny new aluminum one and didn't look back. Joe

That's what I was referring to jose67bird. I was able to reach a local repair place today and fortunately they do still offer the full service. My objective of getting the radiator off today is stalled as I search for enough containers to capture all the antifreeze for disposal at the local "household chemical waste" collection.

The Desert Cooler radiators are pretty close to the original design.

Local shops around here suck... Glad to hear you do have options. Just look both ways and let it run on the ground. Just kidding. Hopefully your radiator turns out to be minor.

Is this an original rad we're talking about?
When my original went bad I checked on a re-core. 3core was about $350. 4 core was about $525. Crazy huh? I ended up just buying a replacement 4 core for around $200. I didn't really expect much because you get what you pay for but it has held up so far for about 10 years. I was going to toss the old rad but then I realized the Harrison tanks were worth money to someone(the letter tag was long gone). I recently sold the tanks with the bad core for $100 at a swap meet.

Its pretty amazing. A few years ago getting a radiator recored was looked as the cheap alternative.

theres a radiator shop here in houston that advertises :
" the best place to take a leak"!

Firebob, The one I'm hoping now to get repaired now is an 11-year-old replacement that looks much like the originals except for the "Harrison" on the side and the "UP" tag. I just want to get the leak fixed and the car back for this cruise season. (If we have one this year.... it's 44 and raining today. )

Long term, I have my old Harrison stored in the attic and eventually will have it restored. I have found a source for repro "UP" tags and will replace it too.

I see that Ricks Camaros now has exact repro Harrison radiators for Camaros. Camaro did not use a Harrison code UP part 3014090 so there isn't an exact match yet for my 4-row but I wonder if a Firebird version is very far off? They are pricy, however, at $1070.
http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-radia...-1967-1968.html
"This is the most technically correct Camaro radiator that has ever been manufactured. You will find all stampings; bends, text and clips are concourse correct."

Ouch!!
Jim,
My old rad(the one with the Harrison tanks) developed a leak in one of the tubes the night before a cruise a few years ago. I soldered it up but then another started just down from the first. And so it went for a couple of hours. I finally got them all plugged but was really scared to take it the next day but did anyway. The point is if it's bad in one spot, and not caused by some sort of trama, chances are it's bad in more than just one place. I would do some shopping for a replacement before you take it for the repairs just so you know if it's even worth the money to fix. What with labor cost these days it might be more cost effective to buy a new one.

Looks like we avoided a problem last summer. Returning from the Cannonbird Run, I was doing a quick inspection of the car near Kearney, Nebraska (1/3 of the way home on I80 and with miles between towns.). I saw that the AC belt had stretched enough that it flipped out of it's grove on the compressor. A minor adjustment and all was well.

As I found during the removal of the radiator today, that the flipped belt had been rubbing against the heater hose. A few more miles and it likely would have blasted through, probably in the middle of nowhere on the interstate.

Somebody is watching over you Jim...

I had my Harrison redone with a 4-core locally for $345.00 Works great and still has the tab on it.

I looked into recoring my 3 core and they wanted 5+ dead Franklins. Still looking, 345 would have been a much easier decision.

That's a deal Dave. I would likely have had mine done for that.

I have decided to resore my original Harrison UP code 4 row. Both my 11-year-old aftermarket and my old Harrison that I had saved would need new cores. The price of restoring either radiator and the price of a new one are close to the same (unfortunately about hokies1984 cost level rather than David's). Bottom line, my quest for originality swayed the decision.

The radiator shop seems to be very good. They are going to do some additional restoration of the original Harrison beyond the usual recore, clean, and paint.

I have ordered new shroud clips and a UP code tag which the shop will solder to the tank.

Pictures will follow...

Done!

The recore of the repro, a new repro, or restoration of the original Harrison was going to be close to the same price so I went with the Harrison recore and restore. One more step to closer to originality. Below are a couple pictures.

I did find out that the "correct" AC belt that jumped the compressor pully slot was incorrect. I ordered a new AMES repro (ironically made by the same Quanta company) and it fits much better.

I also found that the fan seemed loose on reassembly and discovered it was the waterpump so that's new now too.

Looks nice Jim! Original is the only way to fly...