Down to the final "bling"...what is the appropriate sequence and method of installation for the convertible pinchweld molding? Can it be installed after the convertible top? Do the pinchweld molding clips install to the molding and then to the car, or do the moldings clip to the pinchweld then the molding to the clips?

It's been a couple years but I remember putting the clips on the pinchweld then clipping the molding in place. This was before the top went on. Not saying it's the correct proceedure but worked out fine.

I used a little butly when putting on the chrome trim to help keep the water out. I used a lot the clips as I had a few extra.

It was not easy with no top. It would really be a night mare with the top on. It took a lot of muscle to hold the trim in place and get the self tapers in. It was a two man job for me.

Where exactly did you put the butyl? Top? Wrap the edge? I planned to use butyl tape as it is slightly easier to handle.

Good question.

I think I put the butyl on the top of the pinchweld. I don't think the factory did this. I got the idea from some else. I was just hoping to keep out any water from getting traped under the trim, or so that was the thought behind it.



I found a pic of getting the drip channel sealed up, just before getting the trim put on. I couldn't find any of the butly being put on.

What exactly is the pinchweld. Are you talking about the chrome molding the boot clips to?

The pinchweld is the seam where the tulip panel, inner quarter panel, outer quarter panel and the gutter support meet, lap and are spot welded. Because there is a slight gap between the panel edges, it is a potential rust point.

That looks like rope caulk, rather than butyl. It's a great product though!

I just put mine on the conv top was already on the clip go in the channel. If you look down under the pinch weld you will see the holes where the screws go. The clips have a little slot in them and the pinch weld goes in that slot. You may need a second pair of hands to pull the molding into the pinch well to get the screws in the holes. It was a lot easier to put the screws in with the top half way up and then a stubby screw driver or a 1/4 ratchet with a Phillips bit.

I used a product called NP1 it's what they call a stop gap. 6 bux a tube but always stays pliable. very messy though once you get on you.

I also layed down some painters tape under the lip ofthe molding while installing then pealed it out from under neath the molding when done.

I used the butyl tape and installed it on the topside of the pinchweld. Once you press the moulding into place some squeezed out in a few places, which I merely cleaned off with rag and fingernail, then a little acetone. Good seal I'm sure!