Hi all I have a problem with my roof. If I put pressure on the roof it will cave in like plexy glass. I noticed there is about a 1" gap between the roof and the roof panel braces. Do I need to replace the braces? [img:center][/img]
It's called oil canning. There is an area in which the metal's molecules have shifted, crippeling the metal. If you know where to hit it with a body hammer or use a smoke wrench, you can shift the molecules back so that it doesn't oil can.
See the area that bends down at the edge of the crater? Somewhere along the area is/are the damage point(s).
I cannot tell a thing from the picture, and the description isn't much better.
A picture on the outside of the vehilce would help so that one can better read the metal. Also, does it stay kinked, or can you get it to release?
When i press down on the roof from the top it will go down to the braces and look like a dent but when released it will go back to its normal and natural looking form... If looking from the outside you couldnt tell there was a problem until you put pressure on the roof.... It is almost if the braces from the bottom have been pulled down and bent down word where the roof metal has no support, so if applied pressure it pushes down to the braces... i will take more pictures on wednesday when i have a little more time... maybe if someone has the carpet out can measure from where the dome light is straight down to the transmission tunnel to see if mine is different?
On my 67, I measured 34 1/2 inches from the bottom of the dome light lens to the tar paper on the top of the tunnel.
I also noticed that in the area near the back of the dome light, I can't push the roof down at all. Forward of the dome light, I can push the roof down maybe 1/8 inch before it hits some bracing. If I push on the roof area above the steering wheel, it goes down about 1/2 inch and pops back up when I let go - apparently no bracing in that area.
Thanks Pete! I have my dome light lens out so i measured from top of tunnel to bottom of brace is 35 1/4. top of tunnel to top to bottom of roof is 36 1/2. Pete, can you give me a measurement from top of tunnel to the roof plz?
The headliner is still installed so I can't measure from tunnel to roof, sorry. I did measure from tunnel to the bottom of the brace just behind the dome light at 35 3/4 inches, and I can't push the roof panel down at all over the dome light.
Alright I measured the same spot that you did and i got 35 1/8. So there is a 5/8 difference... The only spots that seem solid is the outside edges of the roof. The more toward the center of the roof i get the easier and more further down i can push on it. I'll take more pictures later this afternoon to show more of what i'm talking about.
1. Is the skin where you want it....viewed from the outside? Straight with no visible dents, symmetrical, etc...?
Only after you can say "yes" to question #1...
2. Two bottle jacks, or porta-powers, with 4x4 of 6x6 lumber pressing up against the brace from the floor, each jack pressing approx 1 foot in from each end of the brace...mash the brace up until it touches the skin. But do not go so far as to let it push up on the skin from its natural position more than maybe 1/16"....
3. Hammer and work the the daylights out of each end of this metal brace (being EXTREMELY CAREFUL TO NOT MISS!! If you miss the brace and hit the roof skin, you'll create an "outie" dent to later repair. It will be safer to hammer thru a tranfer device...heavy metal pipe, a solid stick of hard wood, etc...errant hammer blows are far less likely this way since your hammer stays away from the skin) Your goal is to reshape the brace to match the countour it is now pressed and held into. If possibly missing with a hammer and wacking/damaging the roof skin scares you, just skip attempting this whole jacking procedure and proceed to step 5.
4. Release the jacks and see if the roof brace now mostly holds the new shape, with no more than about 1/4" to 3/8" gap. If it's better and just needs a bit more work, repeat step 3. Once you have less than 1/4" to 3/8" gap along the majority of the length of this brace, proceed to step 6.
5. If the brace still has a large gap between it and the skin, cut the brace out, (it can be much more easily re-shaped outside of the car), shape/test-fit/shape/test-fit/shape/test-fit, and when it is shaped properly so that there is less than 1/4" to 3/8" gap along the majority of the brace, re-weld it into place at each end.
6. Run a generous bead of structural bonding adhesive (a 2 part product that is 100% solids and will not shrink at all when curing) to fill any remaining gaps, on both sides of the brace, the full length of the brace. Do not clamp this or try to press it tight...just fill the remaining gap with a solid bead and let it cure like that. Try not to choke on the price of these products...and the price of the applicator gun. Most run $50 to $70 for a small tube (you will probably only need one tube), plus a similar price for a gun. If you know a local body shop they can probably loan you a gun.
After curing, this will effectively bond the roof to the now-properly-shaped brace, preventing 100% of roof movement and oil-canning, and will substantially reduce vibrations/outside noise/etc transferred by the roof skin.
That's the way I'd do it anyway...there are other methods.
i replaced my roof. there is about less than a 1/4 gap between the roof and the braces. there was some type of sound deading material that goes inbetween the roof and the braces. you really should not have much flex from the roof at all. the roof should have some flex but not much. look for a dent that could be the culprit or the roof is not squared to the body and there might be some tension in that area. i would tack the roof in four points first instead of the rear only. i forgot to say the body must be braced up straight
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