Yes, and the repops are the same thing. That's a good pic to understand how it works. The top bolt goes into the block in the original hole. The other two bolts thread into the aluminum adapter with the bracket swung towards the rear.
mid 70's oil filter adapters have the fitting pointing straight back and I have seen one with a flush fitting allen type pipe plug in the hole so you wouldn't see it from the side. Try looking with a mirror.
If you have the room for it they say a better place to get your pressure check from is next to the distributor. There is a plug that goes right down into the oil system. Probably need some sort of an angled fitting to clear the under side of the distributor. I think some of the filter housings didn't have a port for the pressure switch.
The plug at the distributor is downstream from the filter, just don't dislodge a piece of dirt and have it drop into the hole, it will go straight to a bearing. The plug caps a hole they used at factory to drill the oil passage. I threaded a pipe in there while I was rebuilding mine for a second gauge, to check the pressure before and after the filter, then thought better of it and plugged it.
Thanks, I have headers on the car, the oil pressure sending unit they sent me won't work with headers, any ideas? Also,. can anybody tell me where the TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT goes, i'm guessing on the block somewhere? TY
Thanks, I have headers on the car, the oil pressure sending unit they sent me won't work with headers, any ideas? Also,. can anybody tell me where the TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT goes, i'm guessing on the block somewhere? TY
Not sure why the oil pressure sender won't work. Can you post a pic or describe why? It threads into the oil filter bracket, and depending on the style bracket, will point to the passenger side or the firewall. See the above pics.
The water temp sender goes in the intake manifold towards the front where the coolant is.
There is no room the header is almost right against the filter housing where the sending unit would thread into, it points towards the passenger side, not back. Seems like the old one was completely different, with just a small threaded piece with a copper piece coming out, the new one is about an inch and a half long, where the old piece was only like 1/2" long and just cleared the header. I cab;t get in there to get a good picture.
If you have a mechanical gauge, there is just a 1/8" tube that goes to the gauge. For electric gauges or the idiot light there is a sending unit.
Your question should be answered in the above posts and pics. Read the replies carefully. If not, you've got something strange going on and will need to describe it better. Usually the issue is getting the filter to fit with headers, not the sending unit.
There hooker headers, yes almost right against the housing, but.. I do have the copper tube coming out of housing that was cut, but isn't that for mechanical gauge? I have lights...
Yes the copper tube will be for a mechanical gauge, there must have been one in your car at one time. The copper tube is fastened into the housing with a 1/4 inch [1/8?] NPT nut. Turn out the copper tube and replace it with the electric sender switch. In the pic below I have a brass block screwed into the adapter then a tube for a mechanical gauge and an electric switch for the light. I could unscrew the block and screw the switch right into the adapter. The tube in your adapter will, or should, be screwed into the adapter with some kind if nut to hold it in place. Just turn out the tube's fastener and remove it to gain access to the port for the sending switch.
I see what you mean, yes it was in with a 1/4" nut. My headers go right across where the electronic sending unit would go, your header comes down along the side of the filter, mine doesn't. Maybe I could uses some kind of 90 degree adapter first and then screw in the sending unit? going to try to post a pic. can't figure out how to though
Under the box where you print your reply is a "switch to full screen reply" box. Click that. Under that box is "file manager" Click that. You can browes your files and add the pic you want.
I forgot to add maybe you could use an adapter like the one in the pic above. The header could go down the front and the sender on the side. I think this is from the Butler site.
You also don't have to have the sender right in the adapter. Maybe, due to lack of clearance, the tube was put in the adapter and run up to a block somewhere and the sending unit then attached. If there's clearance for the tube you could run it to the firewall or anyplace and then attach a sender. Just make sure you put a coil in the tube to take up the movement of the engines in the frame.
Or you can plug the hole on the filter bracket and use the threaded hole next to the distributor, as Firebob suggested. It may be tough to get that pipe plug out on an old motor, though. Some say that is a more accurate location for the sender anyway.
This is a picture of what I have, the hole on my housing is not on the side like the picture you show. If i did run a copper wire to the firewall, how would I thread sender to it? Thanks for all your help..
My firebird has headers and one of the pipes passes right through the oil pressure sending unit area. One of the previous owners moved the sending unit using a short pipe and elbow fittings.
Dvose, I just went through the same problem you have two weeks ago. I had my headers installed by a shop. They had to plug the hole where the 90 degree elbow for the sending unit and mechanical oil gauge goes into because the header pipe sits right against the hole for the elbow. Needless to say, they deleted my oil sending unit and mechanical gauge ports. So I did what Pete 67400 did. I extended the sending unit elbow out using a short copper pipe. They will fit under the header pipe. It works. These copper pipes/fittings are available in your local auto parts store. I bought mine in Carquest. I'm sure they are available in Auto Zone or Oreilley's. I will post a picture tonight when I come home (5 pm in california). My picture would show you the sending unit installed under header pipe. I even have a spare copper tube to show you with part number. I bought two with different lengths. I ended up using the shorter of the two.
