all, i have a 67 convertible whose taillights are driving me insane. I've replaced several of the tail light sockets with the standard white socket from various online resellers and the bloody things simply do not stay in place. Its a common routine to find all my bulbs/sockets laying on the floor of the trunk.
have tried bending the metal flanges to put more pressure on the "sides' of the hole of the tail light assembly, to no avail.
There doesnt appear to be anything holding them in place but friction, so I am hesitant to drill some form of hook/loop assembly into the housing. As these cars have been around for 45 years, I have to think there is some part I am just missing. Is there supposed to be a rubber gasket or something to help these things from falling out?
When you figure this out, let me know. I have same problem in my '68 vert.(actually, just 1 or 2 sockets) There's no gasket. The socket needs to ground on the housing.
I'm a hobbyist. Not a professional. Don't be hatin'!
Interesting, I have never seen a tail light socket fall out of any of my 'birds. (around 15 or so, times six bulbs = 90 sockets)
On rare occasion one will pop loose, but I've never seen them fall out. They are generally VERY tight to remove.
Either the housings have been ground out, or the wrong size or type of socket must be going in. I always use original sockets, so I can't comment on any replacement ones. And yes, the socket needs to ground to the housing to keep all the electrical gremlins out of your car.
Is it only a few that fall out, or all of them? Any way to measure or compare differences to the ones that are not falling out?
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I replaced my rear light harness (along with all the others) and it comes with exact copies of the OEM sockets. Nary a problem. You might want to considered replacing the entire rear light harness (45 year old wiring anyway) with one of the excellent reproductions from M & H or American Autowire,
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I replaced my rear light harness (along with all the others) and it comes with exact copies of the OEM sockets. Nary a problem. You might want to considered replacing the entire rear light harness (45 year old wiring anyway) with one of the excellent reproductions from M & H or American Autowire,
^^THIS^^^
My car did the same thing and I replaced the rear harness with a M&H harness. EXACT COPY OF THE FACTORY WIRING. I have used M&H harness for the rear, engine and front harness and they all are perfect.
I'll add a small warning. After installing the rear harness the backup sockets are a bit tight. So much so its a biatch to get them out lol. The harness a little over $100 and well worth the effort. It takes less than a few minutes to install.
Mine fell out all the time, I replaced mine many years ago with (Ford) metal sockets , hardwired ea with its own ground...never had problems after....they were actually a bit hard to get in and out , but never fell out again...