Can the two be aligned with the car completely assembled? There's the hole in the body that aligns with the hole in the subframe. If that is slightly askew can the body mounts be loosened and the frame be shifted into position without bending anything? Must the body be supported from beneath with the tires supporting the frame? I'll appreciate any and all thoughts.
I used the factory guide holes when I put the subframe back on but later decided to use the factory alignment measurements in the Service Manual. Glad I did - using the guide holes is a rough approximation in my opinion. The most important measurement is the cross one from the rear corner of the subframe to the opposite rear frame rail.
When I did it the 2nd time, I had did not have any of the front clip on and would think you could be shifting enough to cause front clip sheetmetal to kiss the doors or something else.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I used the factory guide holes when I put the subframe back on but later decided to use the factory alignment measurements in the Service Manual. Glad I did - using the guide holes is a rough approximation in my opinion. The most important measurement is the cross one from the rear corner of the subframe to the opposite rear frame rail.
When I did it the 2nd time, I had did not have any of the front clip on and would think you could be shifting enough to cause front clip sheetmetal to kiss the doors or something else.
I only used the alignment holes. They are spot on but the frame is out of square by 1/4 inch. I have one tire that rubes and I can see it in the shims from side to side. To much work at this point to change it for my self. It would require pulling all the front sheet metal apart. I would even need to pull the motor to take all the proper measurements.
After seeing a few members that have clearance problems with oil pans...etc. Is there a drawing besides the one that shows the body mount holes dimensions that is more specific for the vertical measurements to the engine frame mounts and also the mounting holes in the frame. Basically the construction drawing for the subframe.
Thanks, So if one took a Firebird to a frame and alignment shop they would have to remove the fenders to align the frame to the body? I did take the rad support off with the fenders attached and they stayed where they belonged but that was with the motor out and and the other mounts tight. I sure don't want to take this thing apart. I'll get it off the floor and measure everything as you suggested then decide what course to take.
Shouldn't have to take anything apart to measure center point of body mount hole to center point of body mount hole. But if a frame is bent up or down from a front end hit it may have to be to be pulled back into position.
Thanks, So if one took a Firebird to a frame and alignment shop they would have to remove the fenders to align the frame to the body? I did take the rad support off with the fenders attached and they stayed where they belonged but that was with the motor out and and the other mounts tight. I sure don't want to take this thing apart. I'll get it off the floor and measure everything as you suggested then decide what course to take.
Agreed. The amounts that your measurements are off will most likely dictate whether you need to remove the front clip or not.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
If your front sheet metal all lines up properly or is close and you just want to shift your subframe that is easy to do without toutching the sheetmetal. If your fenders are securely bolted to the cowl, rad support and inner fenders and all braces brackets and gussets are tight it is very difficult to move these pieces and they actually help hold the subframe in place. when you loosen the 6 subframe mounts you can fully loosen the front ones but just loosen the back 4 a couple of turns. Things you will affect by moving the subframe include wheel alignment, shifter position, exhaust position, bumper alignment, clutch adjustment, fan to shroud alignment, engine to brake booster clearance, horizontal universal joint angle and probably a bunch of stuff I missed. If your hood fits your fenders and cowl correctly then chances are the front of your subframe is close to where its supposed to be.. pm me if you want more help, I think I still have your number. Neill
I've done the measurements and it's pretty much spot on which is amazing considering all the dents and scrapes in the subframes. Getting at the rear two measuring points was kind of a pain but the rest was easy. I have the car high enough to measure without moving the car away from the marks on the floor.
I'm now taking the control arms off, that's about all that's left to cause the tire to rub the fender. They may be bent in some way. I didn't think so when I had the springs out but I wasn't really looking in my rush to get the heap on the road and the import inspection signed off.
