So I am putting the front end of my 67 back together. Does anyone know how to get the springs back into the control arms? I watched a youtube video on someone doing it with a big pry bar and a sledge hammer. Tried it but without the motor or trans in the car, the floor jack just lifted the frame up when I tried compressing the spring inside the arms. The spring compressors wont fit into the arms when on the springs. Theres gotta be a better way.
Use a internal spring compressor . There is a post that actually shows the tool if you can search and find it (I looked for 15 mins and couldn't) which can be borrowed from Autozone.
Use a internal spring compressor . There is a post that actually shows the tool if you can search and fine it (I looked for 15 mins and couldn't) which can be borrowed from Autozone.
That's exactly how I did it. Same issue for me - installing a new front suspension on a bare subframe after reattaching it to the body shell. Internal spring compressor "borrowed" from Auto Zone.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Here is a pic of the tool and the part number. The Part number 27035 and you can borrow it from AutoZone. Also, when you use it don't use the fork looking piece. Run it up through the bottom and hook the hooks on the spring somewhere down around the second or third coil and make sure the top of the tool extends through the top of the shock tower enough to get the washers and nut on the top of the tool and start cranking it down to compress the spring enough to get the castle nut off the lower control arm ball joint or compress the spring enough to get the castle nut on the lower control arm ball joint depending if you are installing or removing the spring. Make sure you put a jack under the lower control arm to help out and use a chain for safety!
Regardless of what you use you most likely will have to use a tire iron to get the bottom end of the spring into the dish. Its a PIA but it WILL work with patients and a 6 pack.
You can also run a 5/8 inch threaded rod up through the shock mount with a couple of nuts to compress.
I tried that way and it didn't work for me and I ended up abandoning that trick and ended up using the tool which worked better for me, but have read plenty of people had good luck with the 5/8 rod.
It's a bit harder to get the ball joint in the spindle without any engine in the car but it can be done. Spring compressor helps to hold the spring up in the pocket while you have the floor jack under the control arm. Best to have an extra man help bend the spring with a 5 foot breaker bar into the lower control arm pocket while someone else is working the jack . May still need a few extra guys to put some weight on the front end to get the ball joint in the spindle.
It seems every car made with control arms and coils are disassembled and reassembled by breaking the ball joint attachment except the FGF. The springs are removed and replaced by leaving the ball joints connected and removing the lower control arm to frame bolts. Follow the procedure outlined in the service manual for an easier assembly. No, easier is not the correct word, for a not quite as difficult an assembly. Still a pain in the [censored], I know, I've had mine out six times in the last couple of years. And of course no one has the factory tool, one still has to compress the spring, I've done it without the compressor but it lifts the car even with the engine installed. I've used a spring compressor and a home made through the tower redi rod tool. I like Ordy's idea of running the compressor through the tower like the homemade one. Compressing the springs enough then getting under the car with the spring compressed in your hand scares the heck out of me. I put mine into a steel BBQ pit I was building then ran the nut up with an air impact, figured if it uncoiled and flew apart the pit may save some bodily damage. I also marked the spring a few coils up from the bottom to help index the pigtail in the spring pocket.
Ok so I got the tool from AutoZone. I installed it through the lower arm put the hooks as far up on the coil as possible, and started cranking it down with the air impact. Had to remove one lower arm bolt and loosen the other. Got it compressed as far as I could, still fought it to get the spring up into the top cradle, finally got it in. Put the spindle on to hold it together. Put the floor jack under the arm, loosened the castle nuts as far as possible to open the spring up so I could get the hook part of the tool out,,,,,[censored] thing wouldn't come out! Screwed around with it for a good half hour. Couldn't lower the arm off of the spindle cause there is no engine in the car and it just lifts the frame. 2.5 hours later I go and have a beer thinking I have 90 days to get the tool back, no prob.. Then I get a beer brain storm. I go back out, roll the 350 motor that is on a stand, over to and above the frame, put a block between them. Take off a castle nut from the spindle, lower the arm on the floor jack, frame lifts up till it stops on the motor. Bingo! The tool comes out easily.....20 minutes later, the spring on the other side is done.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI