Guys, looking for your opinion on motor mounts. Mine are the original ones and the oil pan starts hitting the frame, plus they're cracked and its just time to change them. Never took on changing mounts, but looking at it with the car all the way up on jack stands, it seems really hard to get to all the bolts that hold the brackets for the motor mounts. Is that doable with the engine installed? Also, looking on ebay for mounts, they have 400 V8 specific mounts and 350,326 specific. Ames catalog list all motor mounts 67-69 V8 the same. Any suggestions on what to get? Want to stay original and probably not going with Mighty mounts....thanks in advance.
I just bought a set of Butler's solid mounts. I used std rubber replacements last time and had to use .130 shims on both sides to get it off the crossmember. I'm curious to see if the solids need the shims or not. Those poly ones are pricey.
Not to mention how much more engine vibration is going to transfer to the subframe and vehicle with poly motor mounts.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Napa has mounts that are almost identical to the originals.
Cant wait for summer... 68HO4004spvert Sleddog Iowa
God Bless the men and women past and present that have served this country. Thank you. Support D.A.V. - it helps gives a life back to those who gave so much for us.....
Thanks for all responses, I’m planning on going with the NAPA mounts and plan to add a 3/16†shim just to make sure I clear the sub frame. Still waiting on feedback regarding the actual replacement process. As I mentioned, it seems that all nuts/bolts involved to remove before the motor mounts can come out are really hard to get to. Looks like it would be the 2 nuts from the upper support bracket, 2 from the lower support bracket, 2 bolts from the actual mount and one bolt from bracket to motor mount. Can they all be removed from underneath the car with the engine in place? Did you guys place the floor jack under the oil pan to raise enough to slide the out the mounts?
Not only are the bolts hard to get to but they take a lot of torque to break loose. At one time I planned to replace mine but gave up because I couldn't budge the big bolts.
Yeah, I went through previous threads and some folks think it can be done but no real description on how to do it IF it can be done with the engine in the car. Might have to put mine off until a rebuild is due...sucks, cause I really want to change them I know they need to be changed. Hopefully some of the guys that have done it successfully will join in.....
Shouldn't be that hard. Take out the center bolt( I think it's 3/4") jack up under the pan enough to take the weight off the mount( one side at a time). Remove the two 11/16"( I think) bolts holding the mounts to the block and snake the mount out. New one in. Reverse process. Do the other side. Easy peasy.
I'll tackle it this coming WE. For some reason I thought the brackets will have to come off as well. If it's only the 3 bolts and raise the engine up and swap out the mounts, that's sounds easier.
Like Firebob said, should be just the two bolts on the block and the one from the bottom with an extension. You don't need to remove any from the frame mount. An impact wrench may help, and wood block for the pan. I've used the same stock type mounts on 350s. 389s and 400s in mine with no trouble. The mount is kind of cool as the little metal "t" in the design keeps the motor from moving too much even when the rubber goes.
I did the passenger side only before I really dug into the whole car so that I could drive it in the mean time. In my case, I think I used a floor jack with a 2X4 and normal socket set. It took less than 30min.
Cant wait for summer... 68HO4004spvert Sleddog Iowa
God Bless the men and women past and present that have served this country. Thank you. Support D.A.V. - it helps gives a life back to those who gave so much for us.....
Got 'er done. You were right, wasn't that tough, -3 bolts, a 2x4 and some wrenches. The forward mounting bolts where a little hard to get to, but managed to get them from the front little by little. The original mounts were so bad that they actually separated! I'll bet my shroud will have plenty of clearance now. Didn't have to shim nothing, ended up using mounts I bought over 25 years ago that I didn't know I had -Made in Canada- did the trick. I have over 3/16" clearance from the frame. Good to go, ready for the next one, Thanks again All!
Cant wait for summer... 68HO4004spvert Sleddog Iowa
God Bless the men and women past and present that have served this country. Thank you. Support D.A.V. - it helps gives a life back to those who gave so much for us.....
Someone put camaro motor mounts to install a chevy 350. I pulled chevy, they are not the same mounts for pontiac ??? Is the location the same for pontiac??
Someone put camaro motor mounts to install a chevy 350. I pulled chevy, they are not the same mounts for pontiac ??? Is the location the same for pontiac??
No. A Pontiac engine requires 4-piece frame brackets, then specific Pontiac motor mounts. As mentioned in this thread, the mounts are available in cheap black rubber and other materials, including solid. The mounts use one bolt, which goes up thru a hole in the frame brackets, and screws into the center of the motor mount. These type mounts also came on the 350 Pontiac equipped Ventura 2 cars.
