Can someone let me know if this bracket should be bend like this or not? This is they way it was when I took it out, seems odd to me.

67 bird with 327..

Thank you,
Orazio

No it should not be bent like that.

maybe the " 327 " ones were like that

I have one that has that exact bend to it also up on the shelf still I think

maybe our pontiacs were pontiacs and the chevys chevys

??????????????????????

yours is a canadian built with a chevy motor correct ??

@BLK69JUDGE, yes it's a Canadian car with a 327.

I just want to make sure it's original this way, before I paint it....

Thanks,
OM

Hang on - I think a "wink, wink, nudge nudge" joke got missed here.

WHAT "Canadian built" FGF Firebirds with factory Chevy engines?

Or maybe a typo, 327 instead of of 326?

That was my guess until I saw the above. Then I got confused.

Since there were no FG Firebirds made in Canada, that would be rather difficult. Someone could have swapped in a chebby.

Comanche firebirds were built in Canada.

Or you could say 'dealer modified' in Canada.

But no Chebby engines in them.

Hold on... car was built in Ohio, sold in Canada... my bad Typo 326.. Sorry new at his forgive me!!! :):)

Nothing to be sorry about. Those brackets were straight with just the u part at the end tilted. I had to tilt mine just a tad more to get the hose to fit correctly. Mine is non stock though.

We refer to that as "re-engineering to fit".

Similar to the BFH on trans tunnels to get aftermarket trannys to fit. Or in my case, the exhaust install guy on the back curve of my floor boards to create a flat spot to mount an exhaust hanger (something that did NOT please me).

Re-engineering I like that, I re-engineered , massaged, bashed my firewall for clearance. Can't even tell it was done, not that they were flat slabs to begin with.

Exhaust guy cut off the hangars then twisted big honkin' self threading screws into my frame to hold new ones. What a Dolt! Two of them promptly fell out. I had to drill the holes larger then weld two plates, with nuts welded to them, onto the frame rails to fix it. Should have known to get out of the shop when a woman with her little girl got out of a taxi and came into the shop, both crying. They had just had the brakes fixed on their car, five miles down the road the front right fell off. The guy behind the counter started to argue with her about it being the shops fault. What a Dolt! Another customer and I intervened on her behalf until the shop paid the cab driver and towed the car back to repair. Mean while Dolt #1 was savaging my frame rails.

When I have anything I need to attach to a frame member - I follow what the factory did with the '67 OEM traction bars. Rivnuts.

Better than twisting in big honkin' screws that leave 5/16"-3/8" holes in the frame, and the tail pipe riding on the fender lip. Surprising how thin the metal is back there.
Did I mention Dolts?

Dolts?

Dolts, plural of dolt/more than one dolt.
Dolt,
pronounced /dolt/ with a dash over the 'O'.
Noun
Meaning:: A stupid person who bashes the bottom of your floor with a BFH to mount an exhaust hanger. / A stupid person who doesn't tighten up a woman's wheel nuts then tries to deny responsibility when said woman and her daughter come back crying after the wheel fell off.
Dolt.

We like to call them Dumba$$e$

As usual you are correct. I looked up Dumba$$ in the Encyclopedia Britannica. The definition was:

Dumba$$
Noun
noun: dumba$$: plural noun: dumba$$e$
stupid person who bashes your floorboards with BFH to install exhaust hanger.
dolt.
bonehead

Speaking of rivnuts, there are two kinds that I'm familiar with. The cheapo ones with the open ends that sometimes turn after swaged into the hole. And the closed end ones that have a special punch to make the hole with a keyway that matches with a key in the rivnut to help keep the nut from turning after it is swaged. The latter were DOT approved for doing modifications to aircraft wing spar attachments. Should work in a FGF frame rail.

I had fun with that Rivnut to install the OEM driver's side traction bar bracket on a factory auto (one bar) car. The hole in the frame rail was already there from the factory (helpful) and Arizona has a great hardware company (Copper State Nut & Bolt) where one can get just about anything.

Then it got tough. There are also two materials for Rivnuts. Steel (better) and cheap aluminum. The steel ones require a very expensive manual tool or a professional pneumatic tool. Since this was a 1 time installation (but I had to buy a min of 10 Rivnuts anyway), I tried out the cheap manual installation tool that works with the aluminum Rivnuts. Even Superman would not have been able to collapse that 3/8's steel Rivnut with that tool, so I returned it (luckily) for a full refund.

I was saved by a YouTube video that showed a way to use a nut, a bolt, and a homemade tool to collapse the Rivet properly without it just spinning. Voila.