I am replacing my starter and am deciding how to determine if it needs to be shimmed. The motor is out and the bellhousing is off, but even when mounting the starter I cant see around starter housing to see how it would engage, i also tried pulling the starter gear out while mounting to see how it meshes with flywheel but it just pops back in. is it designed to be bolted up and go? I thought now was the time to see if it needed anything else

I got to bump this as I really don’t know if I need tonshim or not. I don’t want to have to do this after the motor is in

I use a small pair of long nose Vise-grips to hold bendix out.

And the "wire gauge" is a standard paper clip bent out.

Ok I’m getting closer on this. I installed starter while on engine stand. Grounded starter and put power to relay which jumps starter gear out but does not turn the motor. Result with no spacer is it engages and when power is removed it sticks. So my guess not good spacing unless it would jump back after flywheel kicks over. I added one spacer and when power is added jumps out and doesn’t stick when power is removed but if I keep power to it at that point I might be able to measure.

Don't leave power on to the solenoid for an extended period while checking clearance. Will destroy the solenoid. If possible, pry the Bendix gear out by putting something behind it, screwdriver, tiny pry, something like that.

hmm

take the solenoid off the starter ..and mount the starter on the engine just pull the plunger by hand

back n forth ... shim to perfection

easy squeeeezee

your doing it manually the same thing the solenoid would do

Scott t

apparently everyone is forgetting that there is a housing bubble that protrudes around the starter housing. where the starter gear pops out you cant even access it because one side is covered by housing and one side is covered by flywheel and there is no room for a pry bar as the block and flywheel provide no access

So let’s clarify are you trying to put in a factory starter or a high torque starter? I found with the high torque starter that I had to remove the adjusting mounting block, put some washers under the bolts that attach it to the starter, and then I got sufficient clearance to the fly wheel when the starters not engaged. Once I did that I stuck two shims underneath it and it’s worked perfect ever since

I got to my starter gear by prying it out with a small screwdriver and measured the cap between the gear and flywheel. My bell housing cover and clutch was removed to make it easy access. The new flywheel required shims where the old flywheel did not. Here is a post and some pictures I took while installing the flywheel and measuring the gap.
https://www.firebird400ho.com/new-flywheel-and-clutch/

I've been through three minis now. Haven't shimmed any of them. Can't remember if I had to shim the full size that I had on before. Seemed like as long as it slides out and engages when you turn the key it must be close enough. I suppose if it doesn't go out far enough the engage the ring gear then you might need to shim.

It makes noise if you have a starter that needs the shims. You can install the starter with or without shims to "start" with. You can take out or put in the shims without taking the starter out.

Assume shim(s) are installed
Loosen bolt furthest from you
take out bolt closest to you (tab end of shim)
pull out shim(s)

If you look at pic you can see that the shim has one hole and one slotted hole on the end. If you leave the bolt on the slotted end in, you can pull the shims out. The other bolt is holding the starter in place.