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#325987 03/24/20 07:55 PM
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Has anybody ever tried to use a drum spindle for disc brakes? It seems that I will have to cut that upper mounting lug down and possibly thread the hole a bit deeper but it looks doable.

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I remember seeing kits that retain the drum spindle set-up.
Can't remember where or how long ago.


-Jeff

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The drum spindle kits may be only for the old cars that didn’t ever have the disc option. Suck it up Bob and replace the spindles

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C'mon Bob, where's your sense of doing what they say can't be done? 😉
A new set of spindles would definitely be easier and if you think about time involved probably cheaper in the long run. Then there's the whole thing about the integrity of a 50+ year old part compared to a brand new casting. But I'm hardheaded that way. I may eventually end up ordering new but I'm just curious enough to see if I can actually make it work. What's the worst that can happen? I can ruin a good spindle and possibly cut one of my fingers off trying. When did that ever stop me from doing anything?
YouTube video to come. 😎

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Here's a right stuff kit from summit that uses the drum spindles .
There is also a kit with out the booster that is $200 cheaper

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-afxdc14/year/1968/make/pontiac/model/firebird

This kit is for manual front disc brakes but it comes with the spindles
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-afxsd02c/year/1968/make/pontiac/model/firebird

Last edited by JamesM; 03/25/20 06:49 PM.
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Well the thing is I already have a set of orig front discs. Everything but the spindles and hoses so I’m not buying a kit just to get spindles. Actually I got out there and got after it today. Got everything mocked up. Not as difficult as I thought it would be and came together nicely.
8BA57849-FD9B-4228-90A2-B287CE3A181A.jpeg

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Well that's cool , I ordered the kit for the manual front discs it turned out good but there was a little bit of work involved because
you have to use a different master cyl and prop valve for front disc and you have to change the hole that you use on the brake pedal
for a different throw for the new master cyl for discs
I'm just telling you this because you can't use the old master cyl or prop valve to make everything work correctly .
i guess those dam engineers knew what they were doing well some what lol

Last edited by JamesM; 03/27/20 06:48 PM.
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You must’ve gone from std to power brakes. I think that’s the reason why you have to change rod position on the pedal. You can use the same distribution block but there are a couple additional valves that were added to a stock disc/drum arrangement. Not to worry. I’ll configure it to work. Thanks for the heads up tho.
544B16F6-5BC0-4419-8651-473580CF43E5.jpeg

Last edited by Firebob; 03/27/20 11:46 PM.
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I went from std drum to std disc I think the difference is the std drum master cyl has a 1" bore and the disc master
cyl has a 1.25" bore for more volume for the front disc calipers

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Makes sense I guess. You are going to need more line pressure for disc than for drums either boosted or not.

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I have manual disk/drum brakes on my car. The piston bore is 3/4" or 7/8"
Power brakes use a larger piston bore.


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Mine was changed from from drums to discs. Spindles are drum, don't know if they were turned but I don't think the F cars needed to be. I still have the drum drum master cylinder, just had to take out the residual pressure valves in the master for the front brakes. One inch pistons.


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No the issue with the drum spindle is the top bolt hole that the shoes use as a kind of anchor bolt. The lug on the spindle needs to be cut off about .600 so the caliper bracket can bolt onto it. There's a couple other things that are different too but basically they just require changing to different size bolts and a bit of shimming.


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