Those are 6 cyl. support brackets. That is why they don't fit or reach. It is hard to tell but I'm pretty sure from your second picture you have the right plates that mount from the frame to the rubber mount. You Just need to get the v-8 support brackets jack the motor and install.

Thanks Barnbird.
I believe the the top plates that sit on the engine cradle look correct .
Doesn't look like i can purchase those missing support brackets separately? I have to buy the whole 4 piece set.
Also question on my pinion seal. Advance auto shows one type without the flange and Ames shows another like this with the flange.
Which one do i need?

Post and get some used ones, not a high dollar rare item. Yes the seal has a flange.

Diaphragm going bad in pump. This is another reason to check your oil often, you don't have to taste it but you should be sniffing it to catch before it ruins seals and or motor.

thanks Barnbird,
I just can't wrap my head around how a pump that is external and pumps gas externally up to the carb could get into the oil pan. I do understand fuel pumps go bad

Should I assume mine is bad and buy a replacement or is there a way to test mine out? I Can't run the motor yet

One side of the diaphragm sits on the oil side where a fulcrum ( powered by the cam) pushes the diaphragm up and down. It the diaphragm leaks, gas flows from the gas side to the oil side. Happens more often than you want to know.

Thanks hokie for the clear explanation. That is very disturbing to find out.

Am i better off converting to an electric fuel pump?

Does it matter what kind of replacement mechanical pump i might buy?

If I pull the fuel pump off the block will I be able to tell if gas is getting up in there?

Didn’t mean to scare you because it doesn’t happen that often, but you should be aware of the symptoms. If it was me I would put in a newer mechanical pump designed to work on today’s fuels. No real need to go electric.

Any recommendations on a mechanical pump?

I saw so many options and prices out there.

What are the symptoms besides gas in the oil?

Hey Barbird,
Every time I try to order a pinion seal the one with the flange always says for 12 bolt and the one without a flange is for the ten bolt.

I know you said I need the one with the flange but they are clearly different sizes and I need to get the right one.
thanks

Well the drivers side rotted header came off without a fight. (not counting the impossible to get at bolts) To get the replacement in will be a different story

Hi all,
Are most of you here running log exhaust manifolds or long branch or headers for street rides? Are the cast log manifolds that restrictive for a stock build?

I'd clean up a pair of stock logs just to get the car running and driving, after that if I needed more power I'd buy a set of long branch from Ames or RARE. I've run logs on several stock GTO cars and still had good power for when I needed it. If you ever have to change a stock starter on a header car, you'll miss the stock logs.

Thanks Duff that is basically what I was thinking. And yes I had to change the starter with headers on a dirt surface. not fun.
I think I am done trying to make these headers fit. I don't think they were meant for a first gen F body anyways. I bought them knowing they might not fit. the seller guessed they were second gen

But today I think I made a good score. Comparing to Franks Pontiac parts and ebay prices I think I did well.

I got a set of stock 70 400 rod and pistons.( my 400 has a crank but did not come with rods and pistons) Hope to do a stock rebuild.

Set of log manifolds with an extra

Set of valve covers with drippers ( my 400 did not come with valve covers)

And a good oil pan ( my 400 came with a trashed and patched pan)
All for $100

The guy I just bought these parts from also has a

557 stock bore 400 he is asking $350
and a short shart BOP turbo 350 don't know how much
a stock cast 4 barrel intake I might go back for he wants $40
He had like two more sets of rods and pistons ( i am sure i am the only dumb person who would want these)
some kind of special race flex plate brand new
and more

I picked up a 1979 ram air III 400 for 200 bucks last summer front right two cylinders are rusted and it's stuck, but the block is good and the heads are good, I'm had the cylinders soaking with marvel mystery oil and can o croil for a few months now, I bought my 68 350 for 275 bucks, was a 265 hp motor out of a 68 bird, it was rebuilt by the original owner, 068 cam now and a 4 brl intake, I did all new gaskets oil pump fuel pump water pump edelbrock intake and demon 650 carb with hei ignition she fired right up third crank on the stand!!! If you take your time look around and make some good contacts you can find parts pretty reasonable. I buying two more 400's off the same guy I got my ram air III from for the same price I got it for figure it would be a good investment for myself and possibly to make a lil cash back

wow i thought they stopped making the Ram air in 1970. but i am new to pontiacs

Yes I believe they did due to a contractor problem do to special rods.

Is it a RA3 form another year that was put in it? I assume you verified the block code and such. If its a true RA3 then nice score!

I think it was just a typo and he hit 7 instead of 6. Are you talking about ram air v rods? Ram air 3 rods were pretty basic.

So I got my log manifolds all cleaned up and painted with high temp paint. I had to drill out the studs and put in helicoils. They will have to heat cure once the motor is running again.

Also I put in the axle seal, finished the one rear brake job, got my drums turned.
Started to put my new axle shaft assembly together and hit a wall.
The axle shaft came with two lock rings and the bearing came with one as well. So now I have three different lock rings none of which match what came off the original axle. All three are different sizes.
Are these a critical measurement?
Do they even contact any surface other then holding the bearing on the shaft?
I tried looking at google and utube for answers and even called Ames. They didn't know .
The lock rings are different od id and width but they were cold in my garage so i will remeasure the id once they get more ambient

Shouldn’t matter provided it clears the axle tubes and presses on correctly. If it is too loose or too tight that could be a problem.

Thanks Hokie,

As far as clearing the axle tubes since they are so much smaller in outside diameter then the bearing I can't see that being a concern diameter wise.
But width wise I could see an issue.

So basically width wise what I have for clearance is the distance between the pressed on bearing and the axle tube seal?

Given your advice I can rule out the widest lock ring so its down between the next two whichever has the best pressed fit size?

thanks

wish I didn't mix them up the one that came with the axle is probably the winner. I thought it was going to be the one that came with the bearing.

Your bottom return spring is wrong and will not allow self adjuster to work properly.

oh really OK i just copied the other side.
I appreciate you checking my work

Your welcome ,I have done so many of these in the past that when springs are on incorrectly they pop right out at me. I could have said nothing but I figured that wasn't the nice thing to do.

Thanks again Barnbird and I always welcome constructive criticism.
It will be corrected. right now i am waiting on my first real brake spring tool. I am tired of screw drivers and pliers trying to assemble these drum brake springs.

I was hoping to get your advice on the axle bearing lock ring and my fuel pump question.

I have always used the original ring but Hokie gave you good advice. As far as the pump, for yard driving fix your carb. and runability issues first, change oil and keep a nose instead of an eye on it. when it comes to your final road worthy product spend the money they are not really that much and get one through Ames. The main difference you will find with oe style pumps is with or without a return line. Also on your brakes do not get the big scissor all in one tool it is cumbersome and sucks. get the one piece return spring remove and install tool and also a separate hold down spring tool, get the one that has a flippable head for 2 different diameter springs and you will be able to use it on modern vehicles also. On your brakes was the thrust washer missing on the small end of the adjuster ? they often are from former hack brake jobs done in the past and will cause the adjuster to bind in the future stripping teeth off the wheel and ruining the self adjusting feature. What did you use for lube on both ends of the adjuster? oil is ok but white lithium grease is best just don't over use or when the brake heat gets to it it will find it's way on the shoes causing locking problems. Don't use regular grease as it's to thick and will bind when mixed with brake dust in the future. Also take some channel locks and close up your return spring ends a little. Lastly if your greasy paws left marks on the shoes sand off before you install drums.

The original lock rings were cut off. At this point I can pick the best fitting replacement. I would think the one that came with the axle would be matched best but I will measure again and again

Since I just spent the money on good oil I would prefer to know if the fuel pump is in fact contaminating my oil before I ruin the new oil and filter.
I can always use the new fuel pump on this motor or if the 400 ever gets built.
Not to mention this car has obviously sat for many years neglected.

The scissors brake tool is the one i was going to get but i will see if i can cancel my order.

Did the stock Firebird ever use a return fuel line? I don't even have a tank. motor was run off a jug under the hood

And yes no washer was on the brake adjusters when I took them apart

Lube on both ends of the adjuster? Didn't know that was a lube point but i used brake grease on the threads. Should I clean off the brake grease and use white lithium? So the slotted end need lube or the internals on each end need lube?

Are there supposed to be any other washers or clips that could be missing?
Lets assume worst case for prior hack job and lack of experience for me

I do always make sure to clean my shoes, pads, drums, and rotors squeaky clean

Hi experts,
Even though this carb part numbers are Buick gs400 is this not the same physical carb as the 68 Pontiac 400?

nothing on the car is matching numbers so i don't care about that but period correct would be cool

Just seems like a decent rebuild-able core price approx $100
7028242

Yes the lock rings only job is to hold the bearing in place from the backside and the outside bearing retainer plates job is to hold the outer bearing race in place and keep from spinning from the outside. for a yard car that won't be put on the road for quite awhile I would have put in run of the mill oil with a separate zinc additive but to each there own. As far as a return line it was used on all high performance and also a/c cars because of the increased under hood temperatures and associated vapor lock problems. If it were me I would get the one with the return line and just plug the third nipple for now and when it comes time to get your new sending unit get the corresponding one and add the line. The tools I am referring to are here https://shop.snapon.com/product/Brake-Spring-Tools/Brake-Spring-Tool/BT11 and here https://shop.snapon.com/product/Brake-Spring-Tools/Brake-Retainer-Spring-Tool/B1356E I have snap on but other company's make the same tools which will work just fine for a hobbyist. Remember to get a hold down tool with a flippable head for the smaller and regular sized springs. Also if you don't have one a brake spoon with angles like this one will help out with the adjusting https://shop.snapon.com/product/Automotive-Brake-Adjusting-Tools/Brake-Adjuster/B3404B Yes lube on both ends the washer goes on the small end and yes lube the insides only. When you say brake grease It is just a generic grease some company put that name on. I have no idea of it's thickness or it's ability to withstand low and very high temps so your guess is as good as mine. No other clips but can't see by your picture if the equalizer bar anti rattle spring is in place. Also look at the teeth on the star wheel closely if even one is nubbed off on the edges when the wheel turns to that spot the self adjuster mechanism will stop functioning so just replace.

Is this a stock Pontiac carb?

its about $130

Actually I bought the good oil but haven't physically put it in yet, Engine is empty right now trying to make sure all the gas is out. so I could get cheaper oil.

I did use the caliper grease on the threads very lightly and on the small slot end internal but did not put the missing thrust washer i was unaware of.

I will look at the teeth under a magnifying glass my eyes are really failing me.

I like your idea about getting a pump with the return line and plugging it for now.

how much zinc additive will i need with generic oil?

the log manifold gaskets i got at the parts store are metal, Do i use any sealer?

Does it make any sense to premix the rear end gear oil with the posi additive?

Are you doing anything with your car?

My memory is poor but to me that looks Pontiac, the straight on inlet and especially the bolt on throttle bracket lever. See if you can get the numbers to chase down.

i will try to get the numbers. it does say Carter and not Rochester.

Buy the zinc from the parts store and follow directions. Put a thin layer of high temp rtv on both sides of the gasket will take up any pitting imperfections and hold in place for installation. No don't premix because you will probably have leftover gear oil in your container after you fill to the check hole while diff is level. No haven't touched the car lately been doing a lot of snowmobiling usually 100 miles or more each ride. Been a great winter for snow and cold temps in the mountains near me but unless things change it's coming to a close quickly.

Is your car ready for the road when weather permits?

Is your snowmobile Pontiac powered? Ha ha but would sound better

No partially apart. I got ripped off buying parts off this board and need to get the damaged part I bought repaired. Snowmobile is pure racing 170 hp 2 stroke power.

GM had carter make them when Rochester could not keep up with production.

Sorry to hear that, it really pisses me off when scum bags rip people off. Hope they were reported and or punched .

Unfortunately he is on the left coast. If close enough he would have defiantly gotten a visit. And your right he is a scumbag he lied twice in writing about his part being original with factory numbers but sent a cheap used aftermarket part packaged poorly that then damaged the more expensive part it was shipped with. So incompetent as well as a scumbag. And he is still peddling parts on this board. I am sure I am not the last person he will try and mislead.