'67 400 with T350, and manual 4speed conversion about to finally begin !!! All parts sourced, including mechanical linkage. Running long branch Ram Air III exhaust manifolds to Borla exhaust at present. It's a 67 convertible with a strong freshly rebuilt 68 400 ... and 69 exhaust manifolds. It seems I may have some room issues with the mechanical linkage, but not definite.
Looking for technical information and/or advice on fit and function of hydraulic clutch upgrades. Have looked into under dash master slave systems and under hood systems. Also remote slaves attached to Bell Housing activating factory fork vs hydraulic throwout bearings.
Have heard mixed reviews on hydraulic bearings as far as access difficulties and clutch damage with leaks vs remote slaves. McLeod makes full kit, with remote slave mounted on outside of tranny bell for '67 Firebird. Includes replacement pedal with pedal assembly pin/flanges to existing factory pedal housing bracket for proper throw. Master cylinder mounts on bracket at firewall using 4 existing factory brake cylinder bolts.
I have power brakes with the large (11" ???) booster. This supposedly mounts behind the booster and the McLeod bracket angles down and toward the left front fender. Probably need to enlarge hole slightly in firewall for alignment as per what I'm reading, but some say not needed on Camaro forums.
Does anyone know if I have enough clearance with the factory power brake booster ? Tried calling McLeod technical and put on hold for 20 minutes ..... Any experiences with hydraulic clutch conversion overall in 67-68 Firebirds ? McLeod Street Pro clutch and new steel flywheel already purchased along with OE BOP bellhousing. Thank you for any thoughts.
Sounds like a great set up. I am strictly a manual trans guy. I have been using the mechanical linkage with long branch manifolds forever. That is the beauty of them - they are designed to fit with factory parts. Since you already have the mechanical linkage, why not figure out what the problem is? The Z-bar support plate that bolts to the subframe can only go on one way. The ball stud in the block is also fixed. The Z-bar should fit between them easily with no binding. The upper push rod should fit around the power booster, the lower rod should fit past the bell housing. Post what part is not fitting for you and we can figure it out. Perhaps trying to fit the parts while the fenders are in place is the issue.
As far as strength of stock parts, I advise reinforcing the Z-bar arms. GM relied on some cheesy spot welds to hold the arms. A heavy duty clutch like a RAM Borg & Beck style can sometimes cause the welds to fail. I weld Big washers around the Z-bar shaft at the arms, or a short support arm, to make the bar stronger. The upper and lower rods are OK, but will wear in time. The Speed Direct kit is a huge improvement. It uses spherical rod ends that are far superior to the stock parts. Speed Direct kit for 1967-68-69 Firebird
Awesome advice on the bar reinforcement and the linkage kit. I will do both. Will let you know what happens next month when I get my hands on her. Car is in Maine and I'm in Florida for the next month. Great to hear the components will fit - I'd rather use the factory mechanical linkage if I can. Appreciate the encouragement !
