I need to replace the floor on my drivers side front area. My floor is original and there are no holes other than one below my heel but I think it is just a matter of time.

I was thinking on replacing the whole shooting match while I have my interior out.

I have a coupe but really like the idea of getting whoel floor in one piece. I know these are for convertibles but has anyone ever attempt to put one in a coupe from the bottom?

If I don't end up going with the 1 piece unit does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this as neat and correct as possible?

shipping is an extra problem with full pan...
also when you take out the entire floor , you might get movement if you dont stabilize it...
I`ve seen a friend do the two halves...think its easier, plus your "tunnel' is probasbly not rotted out, its easier to work with that tunnel intact


just my .02 , and I have NO personal experience on this...

I just completed putting two half pans into my car. Basically, all four foot wells were rusted through. I installed the entire half pan on the drivers side, and just the footwell areas on the passenger side--leaving the areas under the seat mount and under the rear seat because it was good sound metal.

My personal opinion is that you would be absolutely crazy to replace the entire floor pan if you only have rust in one footwell. That sounds like one heck of a big job to me. Also, I believe that if the original metal is still sound, it's in the best interest of the car to leave it there. The original metal seemed to be a bit thicker than the floor pans I got from Classic as well.

If the car were mine I would buy a partial pan that will cover the hole, cut out ALL the rusted area taking a bit of good metal around the outside of the hole, cut the patch to the proper size and weld it in. After grinding the weld down flush I would put on a brushable seem sealer around the perimeter of the repair.

I'm a long way from being any kind of a body man, but this is how I would proceed.

Good Luck

Thanks Bruce....

My buddy (who is a body man) is under the same opinion.....

Think I will order two halves and cut out what I need....

I would agree with Bruce, Butt welding in the partial panels, hammer the welds flat, fill with some fiberglass filler, prime and paint and if done right the repair cannot be easily detected. Should only take a weekend to complete. Unless you have major rust issues full panels would be a make work project.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out
Brent B
Oh ya,...and you can buy more beer with the money you save

I've done the full one-piece pan. It is definitely a lot of work, but the results are tremendous. Plan on two long weekends to really do the job right. I think it really comes down to whether you want visible welds or not.

If it's no big deal just do the half-pans.

- Jake

Jake did you do the one piece pan in a coupe?

I put the full floor into my convertible. Almost everything was rotted through. If I were to ever do this again, I would cut the new floor in half and do it in pieces just to avoid the movement and alignment problems I encountered. By the way, my original tunnel was sound, but I figured go new all the way. Wrong. I should have left the tunnel. Live and learn. Good luck.

Thanks for the help everyone. Two half pans it is!!!

I put the whole pan in my convert and wouldn't do it any other way, but my floor had issues from front to back.

As a point of clarification, the full floor pan is for either coupe or convertible. There are extra braces that must be bought for the convertible.

I had the full floor replaced for my vert and I believe that the extra braces were already present on the full floor.

Not the H brace below. You couldn't weld the floor in with that brace already installed. There are L braces under the front edge of the rear seat that are already installed. Perhaps these are what you're thinking of?

I had a bunch of rust on the drivers side and got a 1/2 pan from the paddock. I also had to replace my tunnel due to an inept hole cut for the wrong shifter by the previous owner. I used a plasma torch to cut it all out and welded it in with a wirefeed. It worked well though it did take quite a while - 2 full days. The hardest part was removing the seat base, the darn spot welds are not in an easy place to drill out.

Mike
MontanaMike@blackfoot.net

John-

You're right. Now that you say that, my bodyman did cut out the floor using a plasma cutter and ground off the sheet metal that was on the existing braces and dropped the new floor on.

Todd