I bought a Petronics module to replace my points and condenser. Has anyone installed this set up? Apparently, the distributer has to be pulled from the engine, the drive gear removed, and the shaft pulled out to install the "magnetic sleeve" over the cam that actuates the points. Does this sound correct?

Which Pertronix did you buy? I installed first an Ignitor, then Ignitor II, on my 'bird. The Ignitor, which uses the reduced voltage from the resistor wire, took about 20 minutes to install including pulling the distributor. The Ignitor II was quicker on the distributor side, but required a 12v supply from the bulkhead connector to replace the resistor wire.

Ignitor.

Why did you switch?

I also plan on adding an MSD 6AL box...as soon as I can figure it out. I have no directions... help is welcome.

My Ignitor met an untimely death when the red wire was yanked out of the epoxy potted module. I still have it in the toolbox, I might try to repair it someday (yeah, right). I left just a bit too much slack in the cable tie holding it in place.

I can't help with the MSD, I am using an Accel 12v stock look coil.

http://www.pertronix.com/downloads/ignitor12vneg.pdf is the installation guide for the Ignitor. You do NOT need to pull the distributor apart, but it is much better to remove it for the installation of the module as odds are that if you don't you will drop a screw inside the distributor. It's just like installing new points, but you have to use a different screw and route the wires through the grommet in the distributor body.

Bronzebird, Keep us posted about the project. I'm on the verge of doing the same project myselfso I'm extremely interested about how the MSD works with the pert set-up. Will you upgrade the coil too? MSD has pretty good installation instructions on their website too. Looks relatively easy.

Robert

Upon further review, the parts house gave me the wrong Ignitor(Ford). Those parts counter guys make me crazy sometimes. I returned it and will have to order the correct one.

I also checked the MSD web sight. The instructions are fairly clear. I intend to keep my coil for now. Does anyone know if the Hood Tach will work with this set up, or do I need some sort of adapter?

I also had one installed in my dist. but I had Milt Schornack do that when he recurved my dist.
He has a website milt Schornack .com or something he's in the Detroit area.

I put an igniter in mine (yet to fire it though) I did not have to remove the gear, did it all on the bench from the plate up. Make sure you have the clearance set per the instructions.

Ordered "correct" Igniter II from Summit. Should know something by this weekend.

Doug, any noticable improvement? Do you also have an MSD box?

Can you run an MSD box through the Ign 2 module? Both are capacitive discharge, right?

Robert

The MSD web sight shows insructions for connection to a Petronics Ignitor.

Is it the original Ignitor or the Ign 2? Seems like when I read the instructions for the I2 unit they said it would deliver a higher voltage spark in the upper rpm range. It must have some sort of power build up system incorporated in the new module. Let me know how it works out. If I don't find an HEI unit around here I may want to do the same thing.

Robert

Ignitor II starts with 12v to coil and distributor and requires a 12v coil. Ignitor uses resistor wire or ballast resistor and coil for same. The other difference is the "adaptive dwell" provided by the Ignitor II

I'm using a Classic Industries hood tach with an Ignitor II. There is no problem with this combination. I don't know about the MSD 6AL.

The installation of the Ignitor II was not difficult. I had the distributor out, but you could do it in the car.

I previously had an Ignitor and fried it by hooking up the wires to the coil backwards after 4 years of trouble free use. Oops.

To get 12 volts to the coil, I replaced the black wire with the purple stripe on it that goes from the bulkhead connector to the coil. This is the calibrated resistance wire. The wire I replaced it with was just a regular wire. Bada bing 12v.

Hey John are you running a stock coil or one of those Blasters?

Robert

My coil is an Accel Super Stock 8140. If I remember correctly, what's important is low resistance. Pertronix sells compatible coils in chrome or black. The black one looks stock. My yellow Accel coil was on my car when I bought it.

I have an MSD box coming in the mail so it sounds like I'll be in the market for a coil upgrade also.

Robert

Installed the Ignitor II yesterday evening. Pulled the distributer. Much easier that way. I would have had to anyway. There was too much end play in the distributer. Had to remove the drive gear and add the spacers(washers) that came with the kit. Car cranked up eagerly after reinstallation. I didn't test drive it yet.

Also, used same (stock) coil.

I broke down yesterday and bought a HEI off epay. I like my points set=up for originality but I've never been a nut about form over function. We'll see how long the module lasts. That will be the test to see if I made a mistake or not.

Robert

Bought a Blaster coil yesterday. Also think I have the wiring for the MSD BOX figured out. May get it done tonight. Will advise results.

Keep us posted, I'd like to do that upgrade at some point!
Just another thing on the list I keep putting off...

Brett!

Ok. Everything is installed. Nice, neat installation. I actually stood there and admired my work for a minute or two. Again, engine cranked right up and idled very smoothly. Everything seems perfect...except...the engine will not shut off. Checked the MSD websight. It said that this was not uncommon on older vehicles. Just install the included diode inline at the number 4 terminal at the voltage regulator. No problem. Right? I have no wire connected to the Number 3 or 4 terminal at the regulator! I think I'll be calling Tech support tomorrow.

You think you'll be out of gas by then?

Robert

LOL!!!

Still have 3/4 tank to go...

As long as it wont shut off you might as well go drive it around for the night and get some use out of that 3/4's of a tank... just head back closer to home by the time you get below half a tank!

Brett! (You actually made me LOL Robert)

OK. 2 Options:

1)Find the feed to the aftermarket gauge and splice in the diode. This may or may not work.

2) Tech says to get a 5 pin Relay and wire in as per his instructions.

I'm going to get a relay if option 1 doesn't work.

Will advise.

FYI...

Car just ran out of gas...But, didn't run hot!

I do hope you are joking about it running out of gas!

Bummer. You didn't get very good mpg out of that tankfull.

Sounds like I may run into the same thing when I hook mine up. I'll bet the diode will be the easier fix. I'm going with the HEI tho. We'll see. Still waiting for it to come in the mail.

Robert

Thanks for posting the updates... I'll have to check all of this out on my car before I do this swap... Hope you get it dialed in soon!

Thanks - Brett!

I went straight to option 2 above(install 5 pin relay). Followed MSD's Tech advice to the letter. Another beautiful installation I have to say. All splices soldered and heat shrinked. (Dad would've been proud.) Engine STILL wouldn't turn off!!!(Dad would have laughed!) Sun of a BIOTCH!!! So, I studied the wiring diagram in the service manual again(remember, I only have 2 wires connected to my Voltage Regulator...Black w/white stripe and Blue...to No.1 and No.2 terminals). The book says I had 2 more wires and I wanted to find them. I unwrapped the wire "loom" in that front area and wouldn't you know it...there were the missing wires...along with the unattached ends of black w/white stripe and Blue wire from the voltage regulator!!!! What the frig? My poor baby. No wonder she gets crabby sometimes. she's a mutant!

Then I figured a previous abuser had swithched to an internally regulated alternator. I never paid any attention to it since I had that voltage regulator right there on the radiator support and I didn't have any battery/charging issues.( I should win some sort of Dumb A$$ award!)

Here's the good part: I noticed one of the wires coming from the alternator was spliced directly into the BROWN wire from the harness. A BROWN wire was supposed to be connected to the No. 4 terminal on the voltage regulator. Hmmmm...???? I cut that wire and the engine turned off properly at the ignition switch but, the alternator wouldn't charge(according to my gauge in the car). I then installed the diode. Engine turned off properly AND the alternator charges properly. The diode worked!

Tomorrow, we test drive...

Wow. Good detective work. You get the first place electician award for the day. Are you going to leave the relay on or take it off?

Robert

THAT'S good to hear... Glad you worked it out... can't wait to here how the test drive (to the gass station) goes!

Brett!

Warmmed it up, set the timing at 14 degree initial advance, and gave her a test drive. Idle was noticeably smoother. Car felt good but, couldn't get into it because the streets were damp. I need some dry pavement to see if there is any real improvement.

Gas prices sure have dropped...

I left the relay installed. Can't hurt.

Getting in late on this topic, but I thought i'd add that I installed the Pertronics hall effect ignition and it seems to work great. I didn't notice a horsepower increase, but hey no longer need to mess with points and dwell. Idle is smooth.

The instructions were very straight forward.

It's important to shim the distributer, removing any play in the shaft. Maybe yours won't need shimming.

Corrigan, You are correct. I did have to shim the distributer.

Streets dried out so I took a test drive. Unfortunately, other than a smother idle, I feel no difference with the MSD 6AL box, Blaster Coil, and Petronix Ignitor II.

I think that's pretty much typical. I saw some tests run on cars a couple of years ago with points, Pert, and I think HEI. I think there was only like .1 or .2 difference in 1/4 mile times. How much of an improvement depends on how bad, or good, your ignition was before.
Where did you get the diode? Are there different sizes?

Robert

Diode came with the MSD 6AL....only one.

Picked up a couple of diodes from radio shack. 50v and 200v. Didn't have any 100v. Think I'll use the 50.

Greg which wire did you use to feed the MSD box? Rosetti said he used a blk w/pur stipe off the + side of coil. Book says blk w/pink. Mine is gray. Cheapy tester light says 11v on + coil wire from ign with car off and key on, 15v with car running.

Robert

The MSD box connects directly to the battery. Large Red Wire = Positive. Large Black Wire = Negitive. (I actually connected the + to the junction behind the battery). Small red wire to red wire from the dist. and a switched power supply from the igintion switch.Small white to the black wire from the dist. Orange to the + side of coil, and black to the - side of coil. There shouldn't be any other wires connected to the coil. Your tach lead should be connected to the feed on the MSD box.