Couldn't quite find what I wanted so, I am having the following made: 221 in/230 ex/.454 lift/110 lobe sep. Will work with stock valve train. Hydrolic lifters. Going under Edelbrock Performer intake on my '68 400+.060. Stock(?) converter on TH400.

Going for bottom end power.

OK boys and girls, lets hear it...

Have you thought about the Crower 60916? It is very similar, but has about .470 lift on the exhaust. Not sure if you could use the stock springs or though.

Yes. I was uncertain if the .460/.470 lift would work with the stock springs/rockers. More importantly, I wanted a narrower lobe seperation to improve throttle response.

Did you use something like desktop dyno to decide the right profile? I tell you some people think this is a joke but if you have aall the info in there it is nice to chck things like cam timing cam specs and cylinder head flow its ammazing what changes do the best or worst for that matter.

Jeremy Wyborney

I spoke to tech support people at Indian Adventures, Lunati, Edelbrock, Crane,...read Jim Hand's book and articles, and most importantly, had several conversations with a machinist who does this sort of thing everyday. I decided I wanted my power at the bottom. So, he said we needed a tight lobe seperation(110 max). We may also advance the cam upon installation. I didn't want to replace my valve springs or rockers(yet) so we had to limit the lift to about .460. I also did not want to replace my converter(yet) so we limited the duration as listed. Again, wanted to power up in lower RPM range. It all made sense on paper! What I'm getting is a Lunati cam with the lobe seperation tightened from 112 to 110 degrees. They produce this particular cam when ordered so, it was no big deal for them to custom grind it. $15 charge.

Jim Hand's article regarding Pontiac cams was super informative. I encourage anyone considering a cam change to read it. I was ammazed to learn that the difference between the '068 and '041 cam amounted to only .15 seconds in the 1/4 mile. My cam should develop its power earlier than these but, will top out earlier...Won't know for sure since I don't have either of these cams. I currently have a wimpy Crane 204/214/112. I'm sure I'll feel significant improvement.

You are having a custom cam made, but dont' want to change your valve springs? or rockers? um... ok, but um, why??

The heads were rebuilt/replaced immediately after I bought the car on '04(blew a head gasket after 1 week!). Everything is still "new". I didn't have the knowledge( or better sense) at that time to make a decision regarding cam and other details, and was in too much of a hurry to get the car driveable. That would have been the time to do it.

I'm not putting together a strip car. Just a fun street car that is comfortable to drive(ie: power brakes, moderate idle). I feel I can get what I want with the modifications I am doing...and don't want to pull the heads again(lazy?). If I don't succeed, then I will pull and port the heads, along with valve train modifications...I'll also have to change the converter at that point.

If it works, I'm brilliant. If it doesn't work, I get to work on my 'bird some more. Its a win/win! Regardless, I'll advise all here how it turns out.

Greg

you can change your springs without pulling the heads. theres an air compressir to spark plug adapter that let you keep the vavle close while you compress the springs to change them.

Greg, I know you've been working this for quite a while my friend!

Enjoy what you get and push that Cam to the max to see if its what you expected (but work it in slowly of course). Looking forward to hearing your comments on this big adventure.

Dang! I just ran across a Unidyne cam with the same specs as the cam I thought I "designed". Just goes to show ya', somebody already figured out most of this stuff.

There are only so many variables. You probably noticed the vast majority of the cams out there are knock-offs of each other. It's a lot easier to copy than create.