So you guys that have buffed your paint, what kind of compound do you use?
The last time I used some Meguire's Diamond Cut 2.0 but once that stuff dries in the cracks and seams it is impossible to get off. I mean IMPOSSIBLE!!
Anybody got suggestions on what they like to use?

Robert

I recommend 3M's new Ultrafina system. It is water based, so if you have any residual compound anywhere, it will come off with water. Check with any of the Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes stores and they can set you up.

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/

See the above link for find a store close to you.

Tom

I used :
graduated paper to 2000 grit
3M Perfect-It III System

For small touchup I sometimes use 3M Finesse-It

I buy a lot of my stuff from: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/default.aspx?skinid=1
But beware, they are like Eastwood. Buy once and catalogs will arrive forever.

I used and am still using Menzernas system. It rated up there pretty high on autobody BB website I was lurking on.

I am wet sanding with 1000, 1500 then 2000, then use 3m's heavy duty compounding stuff, then Menzerna's intensive polish and then final polish. I've pretty well gone over the whole car now, but need to go back and do some more final polish to work out the minor swirls.

The gloss is looking pretty mirror like, but know I need to hit it a few more times yet. I have yet to use any glaze (as I want the mirror finish in the clear, not with additives) or of course waxed it yet (and not for a few months)

I've tried Meguires, Wizard and 3M. Really about the same. You need a rough cut, fine cut, rubbing, and then hand glaze.

Wax is a bunch of bs, and merely a money maker because wax doesn't give properly dressed paint any more shine than properly dressed paint.

All of the compounds turn to rock if left on to harden, and all the compounds are the same. 1000 grit paper is 1000 paper--doesn't matter who makes it. Same with the compounds.

The Imperial Microfinishing Compound and the Finess-It seem to be the kings in the professional world. Myself, I perfer Finesse-It, but my preference is a result of my exposure, and all of them are the same if the grit is the same.

I used the diamond cut last time because that's what was recommended to me by a good friend/body shop guy. Said that's what they used. He did warn me to make sure I got it all off before it hardened but that stuff gets everywhere when it flies off the buffer and I guess I wasn't fast enough. This time I'll be more diligent.

Robert

Use a little water (spray bottle) and use the pad to move the compound around before you start it up. That worked for me to eliminate spatter.

Just did some work on the rear left corner and the trunk. Going to take one more pass then good to go with the glaze. Reflections are coming up nice now. That's about 3 hours from raw paint to buffed finish for one quarter and the trunk.

That's coming out nice David. How come everything is so clean. My garage floor and everything else is a huge mess. I've just about made it all the way around with the 2000. I'll start with the buffer next. Hope mine comes out ok. I know why they get $10k for a pro job.

Robert

The reason it's so clean as the house is only 2 years old! I decided not to epoxy the floor UNTIL the restoration is finished. That allowed me to go at it without to much worry.

A pro polisher that was over last wek told me to sand the 2000 in small circles to minimize swirls [now try and figure that one out!] but it helped.

Don't worry if after you use your final it still has some swirls. I merely went back to the mid polish and worked my way back again. They eventualy almost disappear. Glaze shoud make it perfect.

Move the buffer around in a fig 8 to avoid burning, and when it starts to dry up spray a bit of water on the surface and it will bring the polish out of the buffer for a little more buffing.

Also, use what they say, ie a quarter size dollup. I started with too much the first panel and it just does not work.

I managed to get rid of the sags, drips and orange peel in the process (well most of it) and am pretty happy.

David, you got any before and after pics of the paint? That is one gorgeous car. I love that color, what is it? I painted my car a year or so ago (myself) and was extremely disappointed with the results because of the rough finish. I was expecting a really glossy finish after the last coat of paint. Its real "pimply" like lots of dust may have settled in it. Actually thats probably what happened. But anyhow, I will probably be attempting to buff the paint this spring so I'm taking notes here.

I have a few from the booth and a few showing the issues, I'll look and post tomorrow, those photos are on my work computer. Thanks for the compliment...not done yet! Solar Red is the color...stock 68 FB color.

I was horrified of the job the guy did on mine, kicked him off the job (he wanted to do the buffing to fix it but he was so careless with the paint I sent him packing with no dough. The dust can be taken out for the most part if it's in the clear but if it's too deep you may get pock marks. I will be re-doing the trunk because of that (that's why I practiced the final aggressive polish on it first.

I'll do what i can to help...I'm no expert but learning fast!

I ended getting soooo much cr@p in the surface because I had to shoot it with the garage door open and had to push it part way out to get behind it but that's the way it goes. It'll come out as good as I can make it. I buffed a couple of spots with the heavy cut and I think it'll be about a three footer by the time I'm done. Close enough. I'm no pro. At least I can take all the credit(or blame) when it's done.
David, what kind of pad are you using, wool or foam?

Robert

Two kinds of wool. Course for course compound. Softer wool for fine. Foam for polishing. Look at it this way Robert, at least on a red car you can pass off some of the cr@p for extra metalic. On a black car, not a spec is hidden. An air bubble looks like an asteroid!

Robert, as Jim says, similiar here, I am using wool for the heavy compounding cut (got to keep it clean as it tends to matt up a bit and not work well) and 2 kinds of 3m foams (both grey)for the intensive and final polish.

I also have a 3m foam compounding pad (tan/yellow) that I use at the very start then switch to the wool. The foam compounding pad does not clog as the wool will but does not finish off the compounding as well.

Here's a few photo's of the crap i had to contend with. The 10 finger [discount] drip I repaired yesterday, all gone, and did not go thru the clear coat (whew), I've almost completed the gill drip fix and the orange peel was on the fender that was in the previous photos, all OK. The dust all over the hood was able to be taken out but the trunk altho fixed up immensly has a dozen or do pock marks thru to the primer as the dust was in the base and when sanded they popped out leaving the primer exposed. That will be an easy repaint (by ME....the guy I trust most!)

If I can fix these, I'm sure you will do just fine! I figure I am about at a 2-3 footer at present, but intend to keep at it as time permits, but will focus on actually getting the car on the road for spring-summer now!

How often should I be cleaning the course wool pad? Guess I'll have to go pick up a foam pad today. What's the glaze do for the job(last step, right)? I've never used it.

Robert

Keep it wet and you only need to clean it between sessions. The glaze is supposed to fill in the last of the swirls.

I have been doing about one panel a night, I wash it and hang it to dry overnight. I found that the "hair" matts up and marks the surface if not cleaned often enough. I may get another one so I can switch.

Have not settled on a glaze yet (any recommendations out there?). I had some "Mothers" glaze from a few years ago and tried it, but it seemed to actually haze up the finish rather that the other way around, so it's going in the round file.

As I said, I think it doesn't hurt to use the 3m compounding foamy first then switch to wool, that'll minimize the frequency of washing the wool pad. The 3m foam pads I have for the balance of the polishes all work well....and when using them and the polish seems to dry up, squirt a LITTLE water on the panel and it will draw more polish out of the pad.

I recommend Zaino Brothers polish for the final gloss...if it makes a tired old paint job like mine look really good, it should make a good paint job look GREAT! The car in my signature pic, the yellow convertible, was painted in lacquer in 1983.

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

Meguires #7 works great.

Which one do you use, the Clear Seal or Polish/Cleaner?

..and is it for use after the final buffing in place of the glaze. May be worth a try on your recommendation!

Because my car is lacquer, I use Z-5 followed by Z-2PRO with ZFX, and Z-6 for show touchups. There are a few other options for clear-coat cars.

I might try the Clear Seal this year on trim rings, headlight trims and bumpers, anything to keep the dang bugs off on the way to the show!

I'll try Meguires #7 to first, but those Zaino products look good, and may order some to try this spring when the car makes it's "debut" to the outside world.

I haven't tried the Zaino on my new paint. A little leary.

I applied it two weeks after two stage on my '66 Le Mans. Painter said when you can't smell it, the solvents are gone. I waited a week after the paint stopped off-gassing in the garage, in July. I would probably wait longer next time just to be sure.

It looked beautiful!

I like beautiful!

How's this?

Sorry I took so long to get back, had to run outside to grab me sunglasses! Verrry nice! had to save that on to the HDD...

Tried to order some of the Z stuff online, but was redirected to an email address for a Canadian contact in Quelph Ont. No response yet.

One panel a night. I like that pace. I don't have near that much patience. I got about half the car done today. A couple more days off and I'll have it licked. At least it keeps me out of the house.

Robert

Bob, I work during the day...

Tonight I fixed 3 sags, all good...tried some of Jims Meguiars #7 out, pretty good stuff! Deepened the red...looks awesome.

I have one door, one front fender to do, and the hood to redo. Then I'm walking away from that task and on to interior and firing the engine.

I don't blame you for taking your time on it Dave. I got up this morning feeling like I spent to much time at the gym yesterday. One thing that I have decided is that if you have to go back and touch up anything that it would be better to shoot the whole panel. That's what is giving me grief right now. I had several good sized runs in the clear that I sanded out and then went back and touched up. The edges of the touch up areas are a real bear to blend in. Plus now I've burned through one place just above the pass door drip rail so I have that to contend with. Wah wah wah.
Keep up the good fight my friend. It'll be over soon.

Robert

When I sanded the drips in the clear I only sanded down level with the clear. You should'nt need to blow any more clear on!?

I just sanded the drip level with 600 (carefully, ie about 3 back and forhts and wipe/check), then 1000, 2000 polish etc.

Perhaps you had extenuating issues tho.

I have a lower door panel (the 3-4 " below the last hard line)that needs a repaint. I intend to mask the line, paint/clear, pull the tape off while the clear is flowing. Then blend the line with 1000 etc. As long as you use a body line of some sort I think it will be OK.

2 days on this side (just fin. last night) This was by far the worst side for drips and sags. Just sanded them out as above, no new clear. All perfect now. Well almost!

This side also has a little of Jims special No. 7 on