hi, i bought a kit at classic industries to rebuits the steering coupler joint ( W-550 or C63904. the joint was rip. ON the old one i had 2 size of bolt different and 2 guides pins the same size. On the new kit they are 2 bolt of the same size and 3 different guide pins. Any one done it before?? I am a bit confused
When i replaced mine, the replacement had the same as my original, 2 + 2
David
http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=571 If i don't get this car back on the road soon i'm gonna go postal! On a quest for FGF knowledge 1968 Pontiac Firebird Convertible 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S" Convertible *Sold*
I've gone trough two of them. I bought one from AutoZone and it did not last very long. However, that may have been my fault as I did not install it correctly. I did not loosen the column and push it down into the new rag joint. [censored] near killed myself and family one day out for a ride. Anyway, I ended up buying a new one, there is an original OEM part available and they are very heavy duty. I paid $65 for, seemed like a lot at the time, but it has held up well and fit perfectly. I bought mine from a place called Camaro Specialties in East Aurora, NY.
One thing that needs to addressed with the rag joint; If your car is having a problem with body mounts the rag joint will be a 'telltale' sign. Not that all rag joints go because of body mounts. The opposite is true, all cars with bad body mounts will have bad rag joints. Some will have replaced rag joints that do not last. Not that all cars with multiply rag joint replacement have bad body mounts either. Just something to look at.
Patvac, I bought the same part from Classic (more than 30-days ago.) It's the same as you have. Also picked one up from NAPA and it's the same as the Classic part. Not sure how this is supposed to fit but haven't found the right part anywhere. If you figure it out let me know.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=571 If i don't get this car back on the road soon i'm gonna go postal! On a quest for FGF knowledge 1968 Pontiac Firebird Convertible 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S" Convertible *Sold*
I have the same or similar one from a local parts store. I used my original bolts (big/small) and two of the others. I decided if i really wanted to do it again, or if it goes bad, only ONE of the supplied bolts is somewat correct, so a second purchase would provide both. I can't remember if it's the one with the big pin or small, but i think it's the big pin which seemed best. The OE ones I had to cut out.
oh ,lets not get in that discussion (Tamraz) again...
If I remember right, Terry didn't speak an opinion on Tamraz when the topic was fresh. Also, I don't remember anyone with any credible evidence that their stuff was junk either. I don't want to recommend bad parts. So if something has come up about the quality of any specific parts or all their parts being inferior I would like to hear it. Rather than getting shot down after I recommend one of their items.
Right, that's why I'm wondering about the part I recommended being called 'junk'. Trying to get a confirmation and specifics on why it's 'junk'. Don't want to recommend 'junk'. Especially a steering component.
This is wath i receive to. I am going to check local because i live in canada an it take a %$?#$% long time to get the parts. I will lock on Early birds
issy is a good guy to buy from.buy a n.o.s rag joint is he has one.that is the most critical component of your steering.if that fails,you may as well stick your head between your legs and kiss your butt good bye.the people that are too cheap and try to save money on the kits must not value their car of life
there is a coupler that goes between your gear box and steering column that holds them together.if it breaks you will lose your steering.if your steering feels loose than it is a great idea to check it and also check it periodically for wear.it only takes a second to check it
Don't think I would buy an "NOS" one. That 35-year old rubber isn't going to be in top condition either.
You won't lose your steering unless the steel fractures and comes apart! The "pins" rivet to the crosspiece on the steering gear side and fit (engage) into slots in the steel disc on the end of the steering column shaft. (Just disagree with you Terry on that point.)
Last edited by Mushroombert; 03/14/0712:12 PM.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
maybe i should hand my ase certifacations over to you.and the 30 yrs experience in the repair shop also lee.im never the one always trying to save money.my car breaks down also but at least i don't let money be an object when it comes to repairing it.i have learned that anything mechanical can and will fail eventually.to what degree,we never will know till it happens.if you want to trust your life to the"The "pins" rivet to the crosspiece on the steering gear side and fit (engage) into slots in the steel disc on the end of the steering column shaft. (Just disagree with you Terry on that point.)"than i don't think that you value it enough.life is precious.after seeing many buddies die unnecessarily,why take chances just to save a dollar.but i have always got the feeling with you lee that you would go farther than most to save an allmighty dollar.
I've got a 'certificate' too. Also, an appropriate diploma signed by GM and authorized techs and engineers at Saginaw Steering Systems. These credentials are available for anyone to inspect. I will be happy to supply pictures of my diploma. I add this part about availability of my credentials because I've been accused of lying about my experience/credentials here on this site. Since I have the endorsement of the original equipment manufacturers of the steering components on our cars I'm qualified to inspect replacement parts. With this in mind, a rag joint kit installed properly is an excellent fix for a worn rag joint. I have installed a kit on my own car and it is at least as safe as it was when it was new.
There you go again. It's not "your way or the highway". Fix it the way you want to Terry. But this qualified, certified repairman says it's a good fix to replace the wearing parts of the coupling if the supporting parts are not worn.
HOW MANY PEOPLE HERE HAVE THE QUALIFICATIONS YOU HAVE TO PERFORM THE PROPER INSTALL OF THE KIT JIM?A NEW JOINT IS BEST FOR MOST.I WONT MESS WITH THEM.THEY ARE ONLY 15 TO 20 DOLLARS LESS THAN NEW.I SPEND MORE THAN THAT ON DINNER
That's just it Terry. Everyone has an opinion. Read back and see that I said "fix it how you want to Terry." My only point was that your preferences are not to trump over others options. The kit is a valid option. I only spoke up when you said that the part I recommended was 'JUNK'. Realistically, look back and see that saying the part was 'JUNK' was not constructive. It took all this discussion to point out that it was your opinion and not based on you buying one of these and finding it inferior in material or manufacture.
as i said before,i have had many of those kits fail in the past.i never had any trouble with the complete replacement joint .and for the price difference,it is not worth the extra labor
You have had many kits fail? How did it fail? What failed? That's all great info! Especially with a picture of the failed part. If no pic then I'm sure you can describe the failure. These usually fail because of old, deteriorated rubber. Usually when a new one fails it's either a poorly installed kit or, the most common cause is undo stress on this part due to bad body mounts. When the body mounts go bad the only thing holding is the connection to the column.
maybe i should hand my ase certifacations over to you.and the 30 yrs experience in the repair shop also lee.im never the one always trying to save money.my car breaks down also but at least i don't let money be an object when it comes to repairing it.i have learned that anything mechanical can and will fail eventually.to what degree,we never will know till it happens.if you want to trust your life to the"The "pins" rivet to the crosspiece on the steering gear side and fit (engage) into slots in the steel disc on the end of the steering column shaft. (Just disagree with you Terry on that point.)"than i don't think that you value it enough.life is precious.after seeing many buddies die unnecessarily,why take chances just to save a dollar.but i have always got the feeling with you lee that you would go farther than most to save an allmighty dollar.
The intent of my post was to point out that you will not "loose" your steering if the joint tears. Would I run one with it driving on the pins? NO!! But you CAN STILL STEER THE CAR! Am I wrong??
I have over 30 years experience fixing cars as well. And since I have 6 vehicles to maintain, yes, I save money wherever I can. But if you want to sit back and call me a cheapskate for posting my OPINION I take that as a personal insult! But since you do not know me AT ALL you may have your opinion, .
Last edited by Mushroombert; 03/14/0705:07 PM.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
Everybody can get is own opinion Mine tear down because the subframe bushing and holes where gone!!
I am putting a joint because i think it will solve my issue. I will be able to make my own opinion in a couple of years. I dont have 30 years experience on cars but if the product wouldn't be safe it would not be offer. For sure if the rest is gone the joint wont last.
when we replaced Scotts subframe bushings ,we found his rag joint bad too (from having stretched over the years when bushing slowly collapsed), it had to be replaced.... Stacy broke his himself when yanking on the steering wheel when dash was out to install A/C...easily done to brake it , unless it just wore out..easy to replace too....
hehehe
