Most of the aftermarket modern lights I have seen require you to hack up the factory wiring harness.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Take a look at these. They have a very good product and stand behind them, unlike a lot of the flea bay dealers! [http://haloheadlights.co/]LINK[/url]
RedLine LumTronix doesn't make you hack the wiring up, they provide you with adapter plugs that are ceramic that you plug into your existing wiring and into the headlights. Best of all, each is American made and each one is made individually.
When I changed the Bird's lights for driving on the left I replaced the old Wagner sealed beams to H1 and H4 units.
The adapters above are very close to what I made for the H4 Low/High (outer) lamps.
The H1 High beam (inner) adapters have a 2 pin plug at the harness end, with two 'flying' sockets at the lamp end, one to the H1 bulb and one to the ground terminal on the lamp reflector.
All parts are low cost and readily available on ePay... but of varying quality. I ended up buying enough for a few adapters and picking the best to use on the car.
If you upgrade to halogens, make sure you use the adapters for the wiring with the ceramic connectors. The standard connector will fit the H4 bulb, but it will be way too hot and you will damage your connector/wiring.
As others have mentioned, I upgraded to the H4/H1 set up, but I also added a relay kit to help eliminate the voltage drop to the lights. The drop in light output (lumens) is exponential with the drop in voltage. A relay kit insures you have full voltage at the lights. The stock set up has the power basically running from the junction post (battery/alternator power) through small wires into the headlight switch, then back to the lights. That's very inefficient. With a relay kit, the power goes right from the junction post to the lights. The switch just activates the coil on the relay.
I have a post somewhere on this when I did my conversion a few years ago. I went with the clear beams with the facets in the reflector behind the bulb for a more modern look, but there are plenty of housings out there with the facets in the lens to look like a stock sealed beam.
I know that washing and waxing my car with the present condtion of my paint is like polishing a turd.....but it's my turd and I want it polished!
I also put in relays for the headlights, I was getting below 10 volts to the lights and now get 14.2 while driving. The difference in the amount of light is amazing, no need to spend bucks on upgrades and the lights look stock, not like they came out of a VW.