Has anyone used the one piece reinforced pan gasket that Bulter offers? I don't know how long it has been available. When I was replacing mine a few years ago I couldn't find one. Let me know what you think of it.
I know that washing and waxing my car with the present condtion of my paint is like polishing a turd.....but it's my turd and I want it polished!
I just used it with my rebuild. I got mine direct from Butler Performance. It is metal with a rubber coating. Fits very well, however I have not started the engine yet to check for leaks.
I put one on last fall specifically to correct a blowout of my previous rear pan seal (4 piece) after about 1 hour of engine time after my rebuild. Since I was specifically pulling the engine to correct this problem, I saw this new seal as a godsend. I had one of the 1st batch - their timing was perfect.
This new pan gasket is great and metal reinforced in all areas except the rear (round) area. Since this was my problem area, I contacted BOP for some pointers for installation. They advised me to glue to rear part of the seal to the pan with weather strip adhesive, assemble loosely and then let the sealant dry overnight. Then the next day I applied some silicone in the 4 corners of the pan and I have been good to go ever since.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I will have to give this one a try. A couple of years ago, I started to have a pretty decent leak at my rear pan seal. I pulled the engine and put it on the stand. I thought, while I am in there, I might as well put new bearings in the lower end. That's when I noticed that one of my rod bolts was yielded. So out came the pistons and rods to get ARPs pressed in and rods resized. That's when I noticed one of the head bolts was screwed up. Took care of that. Reassembled the engine, put it back in the car and fired it up. No leaks and was very happy. However, I got a strange noise when it warmed up. Figured out after pulling the engine that it was the corner of of one of the nuts from the ARP bolts hitting the pan after they heated and expanded. I rolled the engine over by hand and they don't hit, but once warm, ting..ting..ting..etc. So, I made a small relief in that area, put the pan back on, installed it back in the car and fired it up. No noise!!!! Yeah!!!! Oh, but the pan leaks. I did use a new set of side rail gaskets, but didn't use a new rear cork gasket since I used adhesive to the main cap. Guess I should have followed the process again. Anyway, the next time that [censored] thing comes out, I would love to use the 1 piece.
I know that washing and waxing my car with the present condtion of my paint is like polishing a turd.....but it's my turd and I want it polished!
I have a barn find 69 that had the top end off of the engine when i purchased it. I have not removed the engine from the car but want to replace the pan gasket before I try to start it up for the first time. I would like to use this one piece gasket as I hate oil leaks in the garage.
Can you replace the oil pan gasket without removing the engine from the car? Is this even possible?
Last edited by 1EasyTarget; 02/19/1108:02 PM. Reason: added more information
I was looking at the 1 piece also. Went to order form Chase at Butlers, and he mentioned that they've been using GM Gasket RTV (can't remember the GM Part #) instead of a gasket on the oil pans, and have had great success. I thought I'd try it, especially since that is what the Factory is doing now also.
Using RTV on RACE cars is one thing. Using it on street cars is another matter. GM TRIED using nothing but RTV in the late '70s/early '80s. Warranty work was GREAT! (line tech back then) They (GM) discontinued the practice in the mid '80s. DON'T DO IT!!!
The BOP 1-piece gasket is every bit what it's purported to be.
Now you got me thinking. I would say that technology has probably changed since the 80s, especially with sealants. I believe that GM is using only sealant now for oil pans, but the surfaces may be better mated than in the 80s. Thoughts?
ALL the modern engines we've seen have a 1-piece "rubber" gasket, not "sealant". This includes the LSx series. Caddy V8s also have a gasket, as do the 3800s.